Soldering Projeck

Mr. Sharpe

As some of you may already know I ordered a Denon DVD 2800 off Amazon a while back that was damaged during shipping, to be specific one of the boards broke inside as pictured. The seller was going to arrange for FedEx to pick it up for return but the other day he told me to just keep it. So I'm going to try and save it and put it to good use.

I have some questions before I begin. Like, What needs to be soldered? There's a picture, Those shiny Green fields, are they what need to be connected together? and those Silver parts need to be connected too right?

disneyjoe7

Everything that is split apart. Even the green Copper layer, you need to scrap that so you can solder it. And I would glue the board first.

TECHNOKID

I am convince disneyjoe7 means scrape, not scrap.

As pointed out, your first step would be to scrape the varnish around the entire damaged area (large enough to provide decent exposed working area for repair).

Also pointed out, your second step would be to glue the damaged area of the PCB using good glue such as epoxy.

Once the board damaged area is secure and the board is now again one solid piece, use rubbing alcohool to clean the copper pads that are exposed.

You now must reconnect the broken pads and to do so use pieces of copper foil pads of high enough gage. Use proper solder techniques to solder the copper pads to reconnect the broken copper junctions.

Reinstall the board in the unit and reconnect all wirewing and connectors in order to test your work. Using a non conductive tool, tap gently on the board (broken area) to check the reliability of your work and make sure there are no cold joints.

Once you know the board is fully operational, I would suggest you apply some sort of varnish over the repair to protect the exposed area.

The overall damage of the board is quite substantial and you have a nice challenge on your hands, however if you are patient and somewhat skillfull you should be able to repair the board.

Good luck with your project!
TK

Mr. Sharpe

Yeah I figured it was scraped haha

awesome, thanks Tech. this should be a good challenge indeed. I don't know when I'll start but I'll be sure and tell all when I'm done:afro

Mr. Sharpe

:afro Afro

disneyjoe7

Screwed up again, thanks guys you understood what I was saying.

maximillian

Instead of scraping away the resist layer you could also trace back the traces and connect wires from a soldered component.

TECHNOKID

maximillian wrote: »

Instead of scraping away the resist layer you could also trace back the traces and connect wires from a soldered component.

Valid optio however, some runs has multiple components which would make quite a wire mess on the board.

sucks2beme

Good lord. How does the shipping company do THAT to a board?
I'd be worried that the dvd drive assembly would be shot as well.

Mr. Sharpe

sucks2beme wrote: »

Good lord. How does the shipping company do THAT to a board?
I'd be worried that the dvd drive assembly would be shot as well.

Not a clue. I will see if fixing the board will make it work. it really doesn't make a difference if it works or not when I'm done, I got a refund for it so I'm just doing it to see if I can do it I have thought about taking the Drive out but I know when I do I'm sure something will fall off of it or something, but that is a good idea.

[Deleted User]

If you want to be super-anal about it you could use a VOM to check the continuity of each connection as you repair it. Make a solder connection and then check two solder pads on each side of the break to make sure there's now a good connection. I check every part that is soldered before I trim the excess leads that it has good continuity with the next part it is supposed to be attached to. Use the diode checker function of the VOM for the "beep". It avoids cold solder joints.

heiney9

Mr. Sharpe, do you have any soldering experience? If not, this is a daunting task and I realize at this point you have nothing to loose. This is not an easy task, even though it sounds simple enough.

Good luck

H9

Mr. Sharpe

Kenneth Swauger wrote: »

If you want to be super-anal about it you could use a VOM to check the continuity of each connection as you repair it. Make a solder connection and then check two solder pads on each side of the break to make sure there's now a good connection. I check every part that is soldered before I trim the excess leads that it has good continuity with the next part it is supposed to be attached to. Use the diode checker function of the VOM for the "beep". It avoids cold solder joints.

Lol, I don't need anything to be absolutely perfect, I mean if it works it works :afro

heiney9 wrote: »

Mr. Sharpe, do you have any soldering experience? If not, this is a daunting task and I realize at this point you have nothing to loose. This is not an easy task, even though it sounds simple enough.

Good luck

H9

Hey thanks, and no, I've never soldered anything before but I have a tad bit of welding experience of all things and I was really good at it, idk how that could be of use though. but like you said, I really don't have anything to lose:biggrin: I think if I can't get it fixed myself I might send it off to get it fixed or something then get rid of it. I have a Cd player for my 2 ch. and a good DVD player for my surround and am planning on getting a new one so.... yeah, soon I'll have DVD/Cd players coming out of my ears lol

heiney9

Mr. Sharpe wrote: »

Lol, I don't need anything to be absolutely perfect, I mean if it works it works :afro

If it's not perfect then it won't work. This kind of work is painstaking and it needs to be perfect since you deaing with extremely small traces.

Mr. Sharpe wrote: »

Hey thanks, and no, I've never soldered anything before but I have a tad bit of welding experience of all things and I was really good at it, idk how that could be of use though. but like you said, I really don't have anything to lose:biggrin: I think if I can't get it fixed myself I might send it off to get it fixed or something then get rid of it. I have a Cd player for my 2 ch. and a good DVD player for my surround and am planning on getting a new one so.... yeah, soon I'll have DVD/Cd players coming out of my ears lol

That's like some who builds full sized cars saying I can build a model inside a bottle because I build cars for a living. Chances are if you attempt this and are unsuccessful the piece is done, as in no matter where you send it, it probably can't be fixed once you mess it up.

H9

P.s. You'll need a lighted magnifier for sure and stand with aligator clips to hold the pcb while you work on it is probably a must have as well. I assume you have a schematic as well, that's pretty much a must have as well.

TECHNOKID

heiney9 wrote: »

If it's not perfect then it won't work. This kind of work is painstaking and it needs to be perfect since you deaing with extremely small traces.





That's like some who builds full sized cars saying I can build a model inside a bottle because I build cars for a living. Chances are if you attempt this and are unsuccessful the piece is done, as in no matter where you send it, it probably can't be fixed once you mess it up.

H9

P.s. You'll need a lighted magnifier for sure and stand with aligator clips to hold the pcb while you work on it is probably a must have as well. I assume you have a schematic as well, that's pretty much a must have as well.

+1! Once you are done toying with this board don't expect any qualified technician to be willing to touch that board afterward. This is the worse technician nighmare, working on a board after someone un-qualified has tempered with it! :eek: I wouldn't touch that board with a 10' pole (afterward of course)!

Mr. Sharpe

Lol great, now it sounds like I don't have a chance at fixing it! gah, I will try, Try being the keyword of course haha

TECHNOKID

Mr. Sharpe wrote: »

Lol great, now it sounds like I don't have a chance at fixing it! gah, I will try, Try being the keyword of course haha

Either you use the board as an experiment to learn the skills but be ready to trash the coard if need be or if you want it fixed, get someone skilled to do it. The first you do not loose anything but learn out of it while the second cost you money but potentially allow you to be able to use that unit. Both have their pros and cons...