magnepan repair advice

scottyboy76

Just bought some old smgas, theres a little sizzle at certain frequencys, but overall not bad.

Voices are very subdued, rock music is not at all impressive, but oh the symphonic or new age type stuff with woodwinds and such.

I can hear a little of what they can be when working properly.

I have researched and found pics and descriptions of regluing coils into place, seems pretty straightforward.

the resoldering of certain parts, such as wires, if aluminum, might be tricky, and have yet to see a good shot of what the tweeter is and where it is.

im thinking problem with tweet might be the reason for faint vocals.

Any advice or links to best visual of working on these guys, and layout of parts and components would be greatly appreciated.

Polkersince85

Take this with a grain of salt but may let you know round about what is required.

http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/tweaks/alex.html

scottyboy76

pretty detailed, will keep lookin for pics or vid also.

xj4094dg

http://www.integracoustics.com/MUG/MUG/tweaks/peter_gunn/repair.html

scottyboy76

I saw that on my first search of subject.

reassuring in its tone, makes it seem doable.

Because of vocals being weak, im thinking maybe corroded connectors might be lurking, or something affecting sound as opposed to coils, the sizzling is really the least bothersome, but def. there, and i will be tucking those ends down thoroughly.

If anyone knows of diagrams or pics of layout of tweeter, woofer, etc. so i will know the lay of the land.

also, is dealing with corroded connectors same as coils? clean and reglue?

One more thing, at the end of that instructional, he mentions(on to replacing components).

It sounds more upgrade than repair, but while im in there, ya know.

I looked at the maggie site, no listing of smg parts or diagrams, tutorials etc., maybe too old.

Thanks again guys.

scottyboy76

sorta worried about whit pitting as much or more than wire delam.

The one raised was just loose enough to pull up manually, i dont think there will be much work there.

questions are about slight green corrosion, and white dots tat are also corrosion.

will be going back to atlanta to sit with my mom this week, so it will be weekend befor work begins at earliest, just trying to get info together.

Thanks all

by the way, the capacitor at bottom... i suppose while doing all this, it would be wise to pop another on, where to get it,what brand, should i get exact propertys or try to improve? and writing on it is/ TSI-8423 usa, PA50NW100NPT/ 50microfarad, or uF-100 volt NP

White component is marked CP-10 DALE10W 15 ohm 10% 8429.

Also, should the spool of wire be replaced in crossover.

Many thanks from newbie to all this.

scottyboy76

those wires look so thick in pics.

they are tiny, very hard to follow with my old diabetic eyes.

Might try to find a repair shop in atlanta, wish me luck.

drumminman

by the way, the capacitor at bottom... i suppose while doing all this, it would be wise to pop another on, where to get it,what brand, should i get exact propertys or try to improve? and writing on it is/ TSI-8423 usa, PA50NW100NPT/ 50microfarad, or uF-100 volt NP

White component is marked CP-10 DALE10W 15 ohm 10% 8429.

Also, should the spool of wire be replaced in crossover.

Those components probably could do with a refresh/upgrade. I know nothing about maggies, but that is one simple xover.

The black caps look identical to the ones I found inside my Polk RTA 12C's, as do the sand cast resistors (the small beige colored rectangular boxes). I would replace both with higher quality items, which would be inexpensive since there is only one of each.

From your post the capacitor is a 50 uF 100 volt, which should be available in the Gen 1 Sonicraft line which I've used with great success. People around here also like Clarity Caps, and I'm sure there are other good ones, too. Resistors don't really wear out or lose value unless the speaker has been abused. However you could probably get a higher quality one that would make an audible improvement, and they're dirt cheap. I can vouch for Mills. The one in the picture is a 10 watt 15 ohm with a tolerance of 10%. You'll want to get a replacement that's rated at least 10 watts (more is OK), is exactly 15 ohms, and has a tolerance less than or equal to 10% (lower is better).

Good luck!

scottyboy76

will be doin all this when its all over with my mom.

I have a neighbor who wants to get into this stuff, we will be workin on these and others together.

SteveFord

You can always send them back to Magnepan for a refurb. I had to do that with my MMGs recently after doggie wee wee corroded the wires, may that miserable rodent end up at a Chinese restaurant.
If you speak to Wendell at Magnepan tell him Steve Ford sent you.

scottyboy76

SteveFord wrote: »

You can always send them back to Magnepan for a refurb. I had to do that with my MMGs recently after doggie wee wee corroded the wires, may that miserable rodent end up at a Chinese restaurant.
If you speak to Wendell at Magnepan tell him Steve Ford sent you.

LOL, they do assert their superiority on our most precious posessions dont they.

I will be contacting maggie, was hoping they still fool with these.

If the refurb, plus crossover work by us will give me speaks we can enjoy for a long time, i would consider spending some kinda long cash.

We like the sound that much.

btw i just noticed, the smaller green treble wires were also pulling away from mylar, which would explain the distant vocals.