Will a cheap soldering iron suffice ?

polkfarmboy
polkfarmboy Posts: 5,703
edited December 2011 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I have just received a bunch of parts to fix up a center channel bought from ebay and all that is left to do is solder a little wire onto the electrostat panel . My question to the DIY dudes is ...Can a cheap soldering iron such as this get the job done http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WPS18MP-Performance-60-Watt-Soldering/dp/B0013U9R1E

Its only $24 and I dont want to spend a bunch of cash on it because it is only going to be used for this task . Is there special material thats used in soldering audio conections ? I was thinking I could just maybe grab on of the wifes silver earing's and melt it down as she would just think she lost it
Post edited by polkfarmboy on
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Comments

  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,754
    edited August 2011
    No - cheap soldering irons are horrible.

    They get it done I guess but I would not trust it for something long term, IMO.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,754
    edited August 2011
    If it were me - Id just go to radioshack and get an adjustable wattage soldering iron for 18 bucks... and get it over with. Especially if it is a one time use.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2011
    Sonic Craft sells Cardas solder in small amounts.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • codyc1ark
    codyc1ark Posts: 2,532
    edited August 2011
    He's going to burn down his apartment complex doing this, I fear for the other people in his building...

    Make sure your smoke alarms have fresh batts.
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited August 2011
    No - cheap soldering irons are horrible.

    They get it done I guess but I would not trust it for something long term, IMO.
    +1

    If you do not damage from start, the cheap iron may do the trick short term but you will have problems in the long term (cold joint, solder joint breaking at the wire etc.).

    If you do not want to purchase, why don't you simply drop by your local repair and ask how much it would cost for the favor (you could be surprise)?
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • Gavin.Wright
    Gavin.Wright Posts: 125
    edited August 2011
    A cheaper Iron may get the job done but I would recommend getting something decent that is temperature controllable as there are bound to be future projects that warranty the investment. I would personally recommend the Weller WLC-100 - should set you back about $40-50 and invest in a couple of ST7 replacement tips. That is the iron I used when I first started in electronic repair and still my go to soldering station for home projects. I would also pick up some de-soldering braid and some small diameter solder intended for electronics use. Good luck!
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited August 2011
    I have a very nice Weller station(WTCPT) that I don't need, recently 100% factory refreshed due to a power supply issue, that I'd be willing to move down the road.....$100 shipped? It's in perfect condition and while it's not saving you a ton of money, it's a kick **** unit and the bar at which you should start.

    If not....good luck but get a station not a pen or gun. They're just not at all what you need to be using and a poor choice overall.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • mdaudioguy
    mdaudioguy Posts: 5,165
    edited August 2011
    dorokusai wrote: »
    I have a very nice Weller station(WTCPT) that I don't need, recently 100% factory refreshed due to a power supply issue, that I'd be willing to move down the road.....$100 shipped? It's in perfect condition and while it's not saving you a ton of money, it's a kick **** unit and the bar at which you should start.

    If not....good luck but get a station not a pen or gun. They're just not at all what you need to be using and a poor choice overall.
    Somebody's feeling rather generous tonight, no? :tongue:
  • polkfarmboy
    polkfarmboy Posts: 5,703
    edited August 2011
    Thanks for the advice guys and the generous offer Mark but I think I will just try the cheapo route to save cash in the short term. I dont think there will be anything I will be using it for in future as I'm not very good with DIY stuff in the electronics .

    My only concern now is how to get some HQ solder in such a small quantity .I had a look at the sonic craft site bit cant find any prices or product so I welcome any other idea's on solder material
  • headrott
    headrott Posts: 5,496
    edited August 2011
    dorokusai wrote: »
    I have a very nice Weller station(WTCPT) that I don't need, recently 100% factory refreshed due to a power supply issue, that I'd be willing to move down the road.....$100 shipped? It's in perfect condition and while it's not saving you a ton of money, it's a kick **** unit and the bar at which you should start.

    If not....good luck but get a station not a pen or gun. They're just not at all what you need to be using and a poor choice overall.

    That is a nice station. I own one, and other than being made in Mexico now rather than the USA it is very nice. Is yours made in the USA Mark?

    Greg
    Relayer-Big-O-Poster.jpg
    Taken from a recent Audioholics reply regarding "Club Polk" and Polk speakers:
    "I'm yet to hear a Polk speaker that merits more than a sentence and 60 seconds discussion." :\
    My response is: If you need 60 seconds to respond in one sentence, you probably should't be evaluating Polk speakers.....


    "Green leaves reveal the heart spoken Khatru"- Jon Anderson

    "Have A Little Faith! And Everything You'll Face, Will Jump From Out Right On Into Place! Yeah! Take A Little Time! And Everything You'll Find, Will Move From Gloom Right On Into Shine!"- Arthur Lee
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited August 2011
    Thanks for the advice guys and the generous offer Mark but I think I will just try the cheapo route to save cash in the short term. I dont think there will be anything I will be using it for in future as I'm not very good with DIY stuff in the electronics .

    My only concern now is how to get some HQ solder in such a small quantity .I had a look at the sonic craft site bit cant find any prices or product so I welcome any other idea's on solder material

    I'll send you some high quality Audioquest solder for free, which is just as good as Cardas, just PM me your addy.

    Mark

    Greg - I'm not sure....will check.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited August 2011
    headrott wrote: »
    That is a nice station. I own one, and other than being made in Mexico now rather than the USA it is very nice. Is yours made in the USA Mark?

    Greg

    Greg - Both of mine were Made in USA :biggrin:
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited August 2011
    Maybe I'm in the rare group who does fine with a cheap iron?

    I use this iron from RadioShack without any problems. I've been using it for at least a year and a half, relatively frequently, without any problems. I keep the tip pretty clean... i guess that's what makes the difference.
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • cnh
    cnh Posts: 13,284
    edited August 2011
    Allow me to be stupid here for a moment. I know 'nothing' and I mean nothing about soldering but I bought a pair of speakers a while back and had to solder some mids to their loose wires--a simple job for all of you.

    Somehow I did it using Jim's unit there after reading and reading and reading the instructions...but now Jim has raised a question? How do you keep the tip 'clean', I haven't the faintest. After I slapped myself on the back for not wasting the speaker I just put the kit away with solder still stuck to the tip? So how do you keep the tip clean?

    Jim, take it away? Don't mean to steal the thread because I've been told that for 'fine' work you really need a station.

    cnh
    Currently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!

    Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
    [sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash]
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited August 2011
    I wipe it off occasionally with a damp paper towel and dip the tip in this tinner/cleaner. That keeps it working just fine. I'm sure eventually I'll get a workstation, but I don't really have the space for one, so the RS pencil-iron is perfect for me.

    For 'fine' work, I just install the even-smaller tip for that iron, allowing more precision, but I've only needed it twice in all the soldering I've done.

    Using that iron I linked above, a set of wire cutters, a box-cutter, some silver solder, the tinner/cleaner, and the RadioShack Desoldering iron, I could've churned through my LSi25 mods in under an hour for both crossovers. It's easy when you have the right tools.
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited August 2011
    This an EXCELLENT temp-adjustable soldering station for only $30:

    http://www.circuitspecialists.com/soldering-station.html

    Tip cleanliness/tinning absolutely makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE when you solder.

    I have purchase several items from Circuit Specialists & highly recommend. Excellent customer service.

    I have no other affiliation with this company. For anyone wanting to report me for the link/recommendation/SPAM, eff off.
    TNRabbit
    NO Polk Audio Equipment :eek:
    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer
  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited August 2011
    JimAckley wrote: »
    I wipe it off occasionally with a damp paper towel and dip the tip in this tinner/cleaner. That keeps it working just fine. I'm sure eventually I'll get a workstation, but I don't really have the space for one, so the RS pencil-iron is perfect for me.

    For 'fine' work, I just install the even-smaller tip for that iron, allowing more precision, but I've only needed it twice in all the soldering I've done.

    Using that iron I linked above, a set of wire cutters, a box-cutter, some silver solder, the tinner/cleaner, and the RadioShack Desoldering iron, I could've churned through my LSi25 mods in under an hour for both crossovers. It's easy when you have the right tools.

    +1 - I use a Weller pencil type iron I bought at Home Depot. I've done 8 crossovers, plus numerous other jobs. Still on the original tip.

    I agree cleaning the tip and tinning it are essential to get it to work properly. to clean it I wipe it on a damp cloth after each solder, and then tin it again for heat transfer. I've used the same Radio Shack tip cleaner/tinner as well. Works great.

    I'm sure the stations are a cut above in quality, but I've never had a problem using the pencil type iron.
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,576
    edited August 2011
    heres one Ben turned me on to.
    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=374-100

    I was a little leary because it was so cheap, but it has done many many soldering duties over it's two years I have had it. I do know Ben swore it was the best for the money I will not go that far(the best) But i will say it has not let me down yet.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2011
    pittdogg, someone just posted that theirs was a POS, YMMV.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,576
    edited August 2011
    Face wrote: »
    pittdogg, someone just posted that theirs was a POS, YMMV.


    well you do get what you pay for but for me it has worked very well no problems. 2 sets of SDA's 2 sets of Monitor 5's and i even resoldered one of my audioquest Diamondback IC that broke right at the RCA pin.(which was more just to see if i could do it) I did it works going on 8mo. now. With any you can get a lemon more so with the cheaper models but mine has not failed me at all and if i buy a new model it will have some sort of temp guide on it. Weather it matters or not i will be using it to completely recap my Sony X33es player in the near future:) wish me luck.
  • polkfarmboy
    polkfarmboy Posts: 5,703
    edited August 2011
    Has any of you guys solder'd a wire and then went nuts with upgrading caps and taking components apart just so you can solder for the sake of soldering ?
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited August 2011
    Has any of you guys solder'd a wire and then went nuts with upgrading caps and taking components apart just so you can solder for the sake of soldering ?

    Noooooo :rolleyes:
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited August 2011
    JimAckley wrote: »
    Maybe I'm in the rare group who does fine with a cheap iron?

    I use this iron from RadioShack without any problems. I've been using it for at least a year and a half, relatively frequently, without any problems. I keep the tip pretty clean... i guess that's what makes the difference.
    Tools proper maintenance is definitely a big aspect of their longevity even the cheapest ones. However, ''you get what you pay for'' still applies here. Just compare this to your home electric tools, some users may get by with Black & Decker since they use them lightly maybe once or twice a year on the other hand, for someone that is more extensive with manual tools they may have to chose better quality. An other aspect of the soldering iron is heat control (I beleive it was H9 that gave hair dryer as an example, low or high), extreme heat is a big factor in potential damage of your work (IE: soldering pads, stress onto the component you are working on and even the life span of the iron and tips. This is even worse with today's miniaturised electronics (toobe days: soldering gun, larger through hole components such as resistors, capacitors: soldering pen with un-controlled heat, such as solid state, surface mounts: requires very low heat as components and pads will be damaged with too much heat).


    cnh wrote: »
    Allow me to be stupid here for a moment. I know 'nothing' and I mean nothing about soldering but I bought a pair of speakers a while back and had to solder some mids to their loose wires--a simple job for all of you.

    Somehow I did it using Jim's unit there after reading and reading and reading the instructions...but now Jim has raised a question? How do you keep the tip 'clean', I haven't the faintest. After I slapped myself on the back for not wasting the speaker I just put the kit away with solder still stuck to the tip? So how do you keep the tip clean?Jim, take it away? Don't mean to steal the thread because I've been told that for 'fine' work you really need a station.

    cnh
    Cnh, keep the word ''tin'' in mind. Tinning an iron means to have a tin coat over the tip so it does not oxidize. You just put a light coat of solder over the tip and wipe it off. Your intent is simply to get solder into the pores of the copper so the air can not oxidize it. You are never suppose to have much solder on the iron even during the soldering process, all you want to do is protect from oxidizing (idle or off) and help heat conductivity (while soldering).
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited August 2011
    TECHNOKID wrote: »
    Tools proper maintenance is definitely a big aspect of their longevity even the cheapest ones. However, ''you get what you pay for'' still applies here. Just compare this to your home electric tools, some users may get by with Black & Decker since they use them lightly maybe once or twice a year on the other hand, for someone that is more extensive with manual tools they may have to chose better quality. An other aspect of the soldering iron is heat control (I beleive it was H9 that gave hair dryer as an example, low or high), extreme heat is a big factor in potential damage of your work (IE: soldering pads, stress onto the component you are working on and even the life span of the iron and tips. This is even worse with today's miniaturised electronics (toobe days: soldering gun, larger through hole components such as resistors, capacitors: soldering pen with un-controlled heat, such as solid state, surface mounts: requires very low heat as components and pads will be damaged with too much heat).

    Very valid point about the heavy duty vs occasional use. This is probably why I've gotten along just-fine with my 20W iron from RS. Once I start to accumulate enough tools to have a workshop of sorts, I'll probably snag a Stahl or Weller, but I don't do enough as of right now to justify the $ for the nicer workstations.

    edit: FWIW, the main reason I bought that specific iron was the small form factor of it. I felt like it was easier to maneuver it than the larger irons. And I worked @ RadioShack, so I got a 50% discount :biggrin:
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • Tbone289
    Tbone289 Posts: 661
    edited August 2011
    I would spend no less than $50 for a decent iron. My favorites are Weller and Xytronic. I have to say though that the CSI linked to above looks like a nice setup for $30.
    2.1: PC>Schiit Gungnir MB>Schiit Freya Noval>NAD C-270>Ascend Acoustics Sierra-1, HSU STF-2 5.1: HDMI Bitstream>Denon AVR-1910>polkaudio RTE55, CS350-LS, RT3, HSU STF-2, Visio M55-F0
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,197
    edited August 2011
    Atleast this Bozo is consistent. Can't wait for his threads, bitching how the cheap soldering iron he bought ruined his speakers and now he has to buy new ones. And how he will publically malign the company that made the cheap soldering iron about what a piece of junk it is even though it will ne his lack of skill that is at issue.


    I predicted it, wait for the crap to hit the fan.........just wait for it, a disaster in the making.

    This is the inexpensive unit I have and it does really well with light to medium duty work, but you still have to have some skill and other tools like a solder wick and or desolderer, quality solder, sponge pads to wipe the tip. I even bought a few extra tips that are different sizes for various types of pcb work.

    http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=374-100&utm_source=Bazaarvoiceps

    Is it a heavy duty station for everyday use? Nope. Is it a nice inexpensive station for occasional light duty use for cross-overs and small to medium pcb's? Yep.

    I'd also recommend practicing on an old piece of junk electronics to get a feel for it. Many mass produced electronics are wave soldered and need some skill and patience to get old parts and old solder removed properly w/out damaging the pcb or surrounding parts.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,197
    edited August 2011
    Has any of you guys solder'd a wire and then went nuts with upgrading caps and taking components apart just so you can solder for the sake of soldering ?

    Nooooooooooooo unless you have some skill, which you already admit you don't!

    Get an old piece of electronics and practice, practice, practice.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,197
    edited August 2011
    Face wrote: »
    pittdogg, someone just posted that theirs was a POS, YMMV.

    No problems here, but it doesn't get heavy use. That's why I cheaped out a little bit because it gets used maybe 3-5 times a year, if that. I wanted to have something for some light duty x-over work and or to replace some caps here and there on pcb's. So far so good, use very good solder.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited August 2011
    Has any of you guys solder'd a wire and then went nuts with upgrading caps and taking components apart just so you can solder for the sake of soldering ?

    Nope but may happen in a few years when my dimentia really kicks in big time.:rolleyes:
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited September 2011
    JimAckley wrote: »
    Very valid point about the heavy duty vs occasional use. This is probably why I've gotten along just-fine with my 20W iron from RS. Once I start to accumulate enough tools to have a workshop of sorts, I'll probably snag a Stahl or Weller, but I don't do enough as of right now to justify the $ for the nicer workstations.

    edit: FWIW, the main reason I bought that specific iron was the small form factor of it. I felt like it was easier to maneuver it than the larger irons. And I worked @ RadioShack, so I got a 50% discount :biggrin:
    I'd suggest you keep an eye open on used. I much prefer getting a good deal on the use instead of buying new for the same price. I've been working with weller for too many years, I couldn't use anything else (I've been spoiled :redface: ). You want to talk about spoiled, years ago I put my hands on a PACE kit (soldering, desoldering & rework station) rarely use it nowadays but this was pretty close to the ultimate back in the days. Keep in mind the link I am providing is for newer equipment but it is pretty close to what it was back in the days (http://www.paceworldwide.com/uploads/Soldering%20Brochure%20V8%20final%20lo%20res.pdf)
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)