Caps for RTA12 rebuild
Michael8it
Posts: 192
I am getting all the parts together to do a major overhaul of my Polk RTA 12's. there are quite a few capacitors in the crossovers, which are mounted on top of the cabinet, along with the tweeter.
I have looked at several different manufacturers of caps including Solen, Clariticaps, Sonicaps, and Erse. Erse seems to be the best cap for the price, based on several reviews I read. Clariticaps and Sonicaps would simply be too costly as each crossover has six very large caps and 2 small ones, totally eight per crossover.
One thing I noticed about the RTA12 is that the LF module appears to be on the HF board (the wiring goes up to the board, then back down to the mid-bass driver), and there are no caps at all on the back of the terminal posts, which leads me to believe the caps for the LF are on the HF board.
If anyone can confirm that I would appreciate it. The schematic is not clear.
One of the things I would like to get out of this is improved (tighter) bass response, and that may lead me to a different cap for the LF side, and if I can get significant improvement with a different cap I may do that.
Does anyone have any feedback on Erse caps in general, or on caps specifically for the LF module ?
Thanks,
Mike
I have looked at several different manufacturers of caps including Solen, Clariticaps, Sonicaps, and Erse. Erse seems to be the best cap for the price, based on several reviews I read. Clariticaps and Sonicaps would simply be too costly as each crossover has six very large caps and 2 small ones, totally eight per crossover.
One thing I noticed about the RTA12 is that the LF module appears to be on the HF board (the wiring goes up to the board, then back down to the mid-bass driver), and there are no caps at all on the back of the terminal posts, which leads me to believe the caps for the LF are on the HF board.
If anyone can confirm that I would appreciate it. The schematic is not clear.
One of the things I would like to get out of this is improved (tighter) bass response, and that may lead me to a different cap for the LF side, and if I can get significant improvement with a different cap I may do that.
Does anyone have any feedback on Erse caps in general, or on caps specifically for the LF module ?
Thanks,
Mike
Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
Post edited by Michael8it on
Comments
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There are two boards for the RTA12. One top, one inside.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Dorokusai, that is what I thought. Mine only have one board. I have looked all over inside and only find one board. I also have more caps and more resistors on the HF board on top than the 12b or 12c, which is what leads me to believe the LF Filter is on the same board.Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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Yes, I should have worded that better. I've no doubt that you have that kind of board, it's just not typical. They really didnt sell many of the first run of that model.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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I used Erse caps when I had Vr3MxStyler2k3 do my xo's. I am really happy with the sound I am getting and that is with out them even being broken in. This was my first time doing any mod's so I can't speak to how they sound from other brands. You would have to ask Vr3MxStyler2k3 about how they were to work with.
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M8it, I have only used sonicaps so I can't comment on the Erse. I would guess Erse would work fine as they're probably still a major upgrade in terms of quality over the caps that came on your 12's.
Also, consider the age of the original caps as well - they're well past their "use by" date.
So they weren't great to start with, and they're old to boot.
I did my 12C's with all sonicaps, both upper and lower xovers - it was expensive. But dang they sound good :biggrin: !"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Another option I am considering is Bi-amp with active crossover. What is the frequency the crossover is set at for the 12's ?Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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I forgot all about getting pics of the passives for you. Still interested send me a PM.--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
Re: active xovers, can't help you there."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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After a lot of research, I decided to just build these crossovers. An active crossover would probably sound better, but there is quite an expense there. And I would need a matching amp to make it work right. A bit more complex than I am ready for.Carver C-1, M-500 MKII, Yamaha HTR-5835, Polk RTA 12BM's (M-for mod'd).
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Uh, yeah don't worry about active crossovers.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
