Recommendations to seal leaky cabinet edges

Crashdot
Crashdot Posts: 182
edited August 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Greetings,

After replacing gaskets and/or using material to create good seals for the drivers on some of my speakers, I'm still finding they are leaky. I suspect that some of the actual cabinet edges or seams are not as airtight as they used to be. I was thinking of trying to seal the inside corners and edges of the cabinets with something, but wondered if anyone can recommend an appropriate material. I'm pretty sure I can't get a caulk gun inside the cabinet, and probably can't get effective coverage with a hot glue gun.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
Post edited by Crashdot on

Comments

  • Crashdot
    Crashdot Posts: 182
    edited August 2011
    Hi,
    I've heard of mortite for sealing drivers, basically to replace the old worn out foam gaskets, but not necessarily for sealing the inside edges of the wood cabinet where the original glue may have cracked or otherwise failed over time. I tried caulking the rear of the cabinet, which I'm sure was effective albiet not very attractive, but I'm pretty sure the front edges are leaky too.

    Thanks
  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited August 2011
    I really don't understand why you think you can't get adequate coverage from a hot glue gun? The really nice large glue guns may not fit, but many of the cheaper craft grade ones such as available from Wallyworld will fit easily into tight places. For extremely tight places they also make smaller glue stick models that are about 3-4" long.

    This is the first thing that I did on my Monitor 60 mods was seal the edges and bracing. The glue was easy to apply and sealed very well.
  • Crashdot
    Crashdot Posts: 182
    edited August 2011
    I was mostly thinking in terms of the size of the glue gun and my inability to maneuver it around inside the cabinet before the glue cooled. The speakers I'm trying to seal are Monitor 5jr+, so it will be a little tight in there. I hadn't thought of one of the small guns which would make a significant difference.

    I was trying to think of something that might seep into the seams and seal them, since they seem to have a paper thin gap.

    Thanks
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,566
    edited August 2011
    They sell relatively small tubes of silicone.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,603
    edited August 2011
    I have used clear silicon caulk before. Tight spots, squeeze it out onto you finger tip and apply that way.
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • deronb1
    deronb1 Posts: 5,021
    edited August 2011
    Seal Mate. Used on gutters. Strong, stays pliable, but you have to put it on with your fingers.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2011
    Silicone, wait 2-3 days before reinstalling the drivers though.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • DON73
    DON73 Posts: 516
    edited August 2011
    I use a small squeeze tube of caulk to seal around my kitchen counters. No gun required just squeeze with your hands and press it into the seams.
    TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE.
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited August 2011
    I seeled a set once. I used Ileens clear liquid sealant. I opened the cabinets fully and applied sealant to the seams facing the floor. I had loose front panels so I proped up the cabinets at a 45* angle and only did one long inside seem at a time and per day. I think gravity helped this sealant flow into the joint some since this sealant has some fluidity to it.

    It worked Excellent.

    Just be patient and use common sense with flow per gravity. Silicone caulk is the srongest besides epoxy stuff. You just have to make sure you get some into the joint itself by force like Don 73 agrees.

    Gorrilla glue flows freely and when wet with water, will expand as it dries. That sounds perfect for a cabinet seem or joint to me. I just haven't used it yet...YET..:wink:

    And yes...Wait for two days to play them!!
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited August 2011
    double post..
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,566
    edited August 2011
    Gorrilla glue flows freely and when wet with water, will expand as it dries. That sounds perfect for a cabinet seem or joint to me. I just haven't used it yet...YET..

    Terrible stuff, should not be used for anything other than filling up the local dump.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited August 2011
    It's ok for filling not-so-tight joints that are out of sight.

    Otherwise, it collects dust on my shelf.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche