2nd try...

sntnsupermen131
sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
edited September 2003 in Car Audio & Electronics
when ur hooking up xm radio...the yellow wire labeled "battery +," does that wire connect with the yellow wire off the head unit, or to something like a fuse relay or something of that sort?
-Cody
Post edited by sntnsupermen131 on

Comments

  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    does this mean no one knows the answer or what?
    my main concern is if i connect it to the head unit itll draw too much power through that little bitty wire...so if someone can...please help
    -Cody
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,804
    edited September 2003
    Dude, RTFM man. Every install is different, you should know that by now. I can't tell you what colors mean what and what markings are for what because I've never done an install for XM radio and I have no clue what your situation looks like.

    If you don't have a manual, goto the website of the manufacturer that makes the XM satelite radio module. They will most likely have downloadable users manuals.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

    You're just jealous 'cause the voices don't talk to you!
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    well like john said - we cant tell u word for word, but i'd venture to say if hte wire says "battery +" and its yellow -- its the 12V power line.

    now your XM tuner should not draw mnore than an amp of current -- my sirius tuner has a 3 amp fuse and it says on the back of it that it draws 0.5 amps nominal... so lets say it drew 1.5 amps for the sake of arguement.

    1.5 amps tapped into your 20 amp (maybe 15 amp) head unit power line is not gonna hurt anything.

    your head unit would draw like 20 amps if you used the speaker outputs (u know 4 speakers off the head ttype of deal) -- but you use amps... so your head prolly draws like 10 amps tops... most likely a good deal less...

    so 10 + 1.5 is still much less than 20A...

    now as far as the wire goes -- the wire can carry 15-20A loads... so dont sweat an extra amp.

    try it -- u blow the fuse then replace the one cent spade fuse and run the xm batt cable somewhere else -- but i'm thinkin you'll be fine.

    I run the power for my FM modulator off the head unit's power line -- even tho i ran my own line for the head its still factory sized wire and has a 20A glass fuse on it -- so it might as wel lbe factory. modulatr draws a smidge more than the tuner so again - i think u'll be ok. just check the current draw of that tuner and as long as its under 2 or 3 A go for it.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    jstas...i did read the manual...its wording didnt really tell you where to wire it...it just said a consistent power source or something like that
    pbd-thanks, i was thinking since i was running amps it would draw less current and id be fine
    i called pioneer the day i got the tuner last week
    the tech line
    i told him the model of my tuner and my head unit
    both pioneer...both under a yr old
    he told me i might or might not be fine
    i was like well whats that sposed to mean
    he said that he wasnt really sure about that particular tuner
    i was like, you only have 2, are you familiar with the other tuner
    he said no
    i told him some f***ing tech line this is and hung up
    thanks again guys
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    hah... u thought a tech line actually worked.

    we're the only tech line on earth...

    1-900-Fix-a-la-radio-Italiano.

    if the tuner has a yellow red and black wire -- power / acc / ground, u can most likely just jump it to the power/acc/g comin out the back of the deck.

    like i said, worst thing to happen is u blow a fuse and change it.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    i know it has a black and yellow
    i dont remember if it had a red
    but the way the wire is setup is it has the ip-bus cable....and its connected with the other wires...one is the power and its right by where you plug the ip-bus cable into the back of the hu
    you can split the wires of course
    and the ground is connected right where the ip-bus cable hooks up to the tuner...the tuner is going to be mounted under the seat
    im going to hook up one of the amps today hopefully
    but im going to wait to hook up the other amp until i get the 2nd capacitor
    because i know where one of the amps will be mounted (right next to the 500.2 i have for my highs) but the other amp will be on the other side of the caps
    so im going to install the caps...and go from there
    the specs on these amps suck ****
    my 500.2 put out 800 something watts at 2 ohms
    rated t 500
    one of my 550S's put outs 582...the other 570...
    i mean they meet specs...but man....id have more power with my old bd cuz it put out 1236 or something like that
    618 to each sub
    oo well
    theyll sound cleaner i guess considering their ab amps running at 4 ohms instead of 2....so there is an upside
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    cody - distortion is cut in half -- damping is doubled ... and you'll get more dynamics in the music.

    dont fret the 40 watt loss... i WISH i had good AB's instead of mediocre D's.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    "to terminal always supplied with power regardless of ignition switch position"-manual
    so it left me a few options as where to hook it up and thats why i wasnt sure if the hu would be able to take it
    do you think the ab's will mess with my charging much more than the class d?
    i bought an extra cap...but caps dont work well when youre not moving(stop sign/light, parking lot, etc)
    now its time to head off and start installing the amp
    i hope everything goes well...lol
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    well @ 570 and 582 each -- you're lookin at like 129 amps of draw.

    the D at 1236 u were doin like 106 amps.

    23 amps isn't going to cause any drastic problems.

    most likely you will not even notice the difference.

    once you get the 201S you're total draw for everything is gonna be in that 170 amp range.

    at which point you're still probably safe enough to stick w/ the stock alt, big battery, and a couple caps.

    so ya -- i think you're gonna be fine.

    worst case scenario, once u get the 201 -- worst case -- u add a 2nd battery on the other side of the truck -- chances are chevy has a tray for the diesels that you can pick up for like 20 - 30 bucks, and a 2nd batt would only cost you like 70 bucks... and it would stabilize the system about a million times more than any amount of caps would.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    how exactly would you wire 2 batteries together?
    b/c ive been thinking about doing it
    if i did it will be probably be next year but if i know how to do it now i might find some money to do it sooner
    on the other side of the truck is a little storage compartment for tools etc...so it wouldnt be a problem to get a battery in there
    theres no problems with charging 2 batteries and the alternator?
    i FINALLY got the money for my other amp in the other day
    i have one of amps screwed in...power wire hooked up but no ground or fuse in the distro block yet
    i had to mount it higher than the other one so it would fit
    the end caps are touching
    the other one is mounted low...this one is mounted high b/c the end caps are fat in the middle and skinny on the ends...so they fit
    the reason i had a problem was b/c the metal goes in and out much like the bed of the truck does...it looks very nice though
    as soon as i get everything screwed in it will look pretty damn good
    only thing is i think i might end up being short 4 awg
    i have all the 4 awg i replaced but id rather it all be the same color instead of red and blue instead of just blue
    everythings slowly coming together
    i should be getting the other cap today
    i ran the wire for the xm antenna through the panels...now all i gotta do is run it under the carpet
    probably by sunday everything will be installed and my truck will have all of its seats and panels back in
    lol
    im missing the passenger seat right now
    the back seat is in b/c it just sets in...it has places for bolts but you dont need them...it doesnt move at all...i have a hard time getting it out
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    adding a 2nd battery is cake.

    pull off the existing wire tht goes from alt to stock location battery... replace with 0 gauge and a 150A inline fuse.

    rip off the existing grounds (one to block somewhere - one to frame) and replace with 0 gauge grounds (the one that used to go somewhere on the block -- move it -- put it at the bolt at the base of the alternator).

    now chances are your original alt power line (to batt) went through a fuse box -- so now you gotta jump a line (like 4 gauge) from the stock batt to the fuse box input (spot where old alt wire went in) -- u should be able to leave the fuse box output disconnected becxause it should have just run to the battery and nothign else before.

    anyway -- then you just put the 2nd batt in other side and run 0 gauge ground to block (same spot you run ground for first bat)

    and run 0 gauge power line w/ 150A fuse to back of alternaotr (where u hook up pwoer for first batt).

    the alt wont have to charge two batteries --- they are already charged -- all the 2nd does is give u a little extra reserve for when u need it... the alt shouldn't see any more burden than what the radio system is already giving it.

    the only time u could run into **** is if u run the system with the car not running at top power for like 5 hours -- that'll zap your batteries pretty much empty and leave your alternator with a large battery drain to replace...

    my stock alt takes about 1 hour or so of solid driving to recharge my batteries after abour 4 or 5 hours of 1/2 to 3/4 power key off.

    truck just about starts, then it takes forever.

    but the other 360 days a year its GREAT to have... and hell without the extra batt i wudn't be able to play that long anyway.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    thanks a million...again
    as soon as i get money again after i buy the 4x6s and the amp for it ill probably end up doing that
    but thatll be a while...Christmas is always a tight time of year for me money wise
    my audio spending has been cut drastically
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    christmas is a time to get other people gifts, not buy yourself stuff...

    however the ultra-wise-christmas glutton would spend months in advance convincing other people to buy him stuff.

    study hard young jedi - that you may learn the art of extortion.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    giving ppl gifts is the reason why money is tight
    i dont think friends/family would think much of gifts like "8awg blue power wire cuz to 5 ft"
    lol
    then the amps and 4x6s are too expensive...
    -Cody
  • PoweredByDodge
    PoweredByDodge Posts: 4,185
    edited September 2003
    *points to self* i gladly accept power wire as a holiday gift.


    heh heh.
    The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge
  • sntnsupermen131
    sntnsupermen131 Posts: 1,831
    edited September 2003
    lol...me too...problem is finding someone thatll give it to you...
    -Cody