RTi A7 and amp

rolla
rolla Posts: 5
edited August 2011 in Speakers
hi guys,

i'm new to the forum and to polk speakers...i just bought a pair of RTi A7's and would like to know the amount of power that i need to match with it. after doing some research, i've come across a few different answers so i figured i'd ask you guys for a more definitive answer.

Now, i know the speakers are rated at most 300 w/channel. So, do i get an amp with 600 w/channel RMS, OR an amp with just a little more than that, for ex, 450 w/channel RMS, OR just an amp rated at 300 w/channel RMS?? :confused:

Any advice is much appreciated...
Post edited by rolla on
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Comments

  • EDUBAG
    EDUBAG Posts: 403
    edited August 2011
    welcome to the club,

    i beleive that most people here will agree that you can push the rtia7 well with any amp with 125 to 200 of good clean real power, so 125 to 200 watts/channel rms is plenty and enough.

    i push mine with a rotel rb990bx that puts out 200 watts per channel rms and have gotten great results and have never used it past 60% and trust me that is plenty loud and clear.

    good luck

    p.s: if you are going to use an avr get the sc series from pioneer elite
    HT:
    POLK AUDIO RTI4 FRONTS
    CSI3 CENTER
    DEF TECH PROMONITOR800 SURROUNDS
    PSW 125 SUB
    PIONEER ELITE AVR23TXH AVR
    APPLE TV 160GB
    PANASONIC BLURAY PLAYER
    50" PANASONIC PLASMA TCP50C2

    2 CHANNEL:
    KEF R300 THREE WAY BOOKSHELF GLOSS PIANO BLACK
    ROTEL RC 990BX PRE
    ROTEL RB 990BX AMP
    OPPO DV980 (AS CD PLAYER)
    PIONEER PL100 TURNTABLE WITH SHURE MX97E CART
    MIT EXP2 SPEAKER CABLES
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  • Upstatemax
    Upstatemax Posts: 2,685
    edited August 2011
    I run mine off of my Denon AVR 2808 and they sound great.

    I have hooked my Parasound up to it and it was nice, but not a huge gain... Lowend hit harder and tighter, but overall the Denon does a good job with them (2ch music).

    If I was able to run a lot of demanding HT stuff still (8 month old baby is a movie buzz kill), I would be getting another Parasound to take the strain off the Denon in 5ch mode. But I have to keep it sooo tame right now that it would be a huge waste.
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  • rolla
    rolla Posts: 5
    edited August 2011
    thanks for the advice...however, if i did want to go one of those routes, which would be the best to get??
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  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited August 2011
    rolla wrote: »
    ... if i did want to go one of those routes, which would be the best to get??

    What routes are you talking about here? Getting a 2 channel power amp?

    Many options.

    A price range and other associated equipment would help.:wink:

    BTW, welcome to Cub Polk!!!:biggrin:

    Tons of great info here!
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
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  • rolla
    rolla Posts: 5
    edited August 2011
    thanks for the welcome!

    i was looking at 2 channel amps:

    Crown - 440W at 8 ohms:
    http://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS2500-Amplifier-integrated-Crossover/dp/B003HZV2OI/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3QNHDPQURORUV&colid=1SYFWJIXK3PWU

    Crown - 375W at 8 ohms:
    http://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS2000-Amplifier-integrated-Crossover/dp/B003HZPKXC/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I1HNXT6RA2R7K4&colid=1SYFWJIXK3PWU

    Crown - 300W at 8 ohms:
    http://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS1500-Amplifier-integrated-Crossover/dp/B003HZV2JS/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=IBQWO37591EPJ&colid=1SYFWJIXK3PWU

    QSC GX5 - 500W at 8 ohms:
    http://www.amazon.com/QSC-GX5-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B0018D84YC/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I17S3XZODDINMJ&colid=1SYFWJIXK3PWU

    QSC GX3 - 300W at 8 ohms:
    http://www.amazon.com/Crown-XLS1500-Amplifier-integrated-Crossover/dp/B003HZV2JS/ref=wl_it_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=IBQWO37591EPJ&colid=1SYFWJIXK3PWU

    So, my question is do i just get a 300W amp to match the speakers or do i go higher??

    Also, would you go for a Crown amp or QSC?
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  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited August 2011
    Don't worry about more or fewer watts; worry about better or poorer amp design.

    A smaller quantity of good, clean, high current watts is better than a large quantity of bad watts.


    *Take a deep breath and leave your bias towards high numbers behind*


    Your price range appears to be 400-700, correct? There are a ton of great power amps out there, on the used market, worth considering.

    Brands to look into (I'm forgetting a ton):

    parasound, rotel, b&k, adcom, bryston, nad, etc...

    I agree with EDUBAG, 125-200 watts per channel into 8 ohms of good power is plenty.
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
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  • rolla
    rolla Posts: 5
    edited August 2011
    wow, thanks for the heads up on the other brands! looks like its back to the drawing board for me!

    and yeah, 400-700 is my price range...

    would you have any suggestions as to which brand to start looking at first??
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  • nooshinjohn
    nooshinjohn Posts: 25,466
    edited August 2011
    Leave the pro audio gear out of the mix for best results... Welcome to the club.
    The Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD

    “When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson
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  • PrazVT
    PrazVT Posts: 1,606
    edited August 2011
    Here is a random assortment off of Audiogon to get you started...

    Rotel RB 1080 200wpc amp - $500

    Parasound HCA-2200 (I) 200wpc amp - $560

    NAD c272 150wpc (220w dynamic) - $399

    Adcom GFA 555II 200wpc - $395
    ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place :(

    Home Theater:
    KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch

    2 Channel:
    Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs
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  • falconcry72
    falconcry72 Posts: 3,580
    edited August 2011
    Providing us with the other associated gear you'll be using and ideas about what you're trying to achieve will help a lot.:wink:

    It may be that you're better off spending less on the amp so you can spend more addressing deficiencies in your system that we can't tell you about unless you tell us, so spill it...:smile:
    2-Channel: PC > Schiit Eitr > Audio Research DAC-8 > Audio Research LS-26 > Pass Labs X-250.5 > Magnepan 3.7's

    Living Room: PC > Marantz AV-7703 > Emotiva XPA-5 > Sonus Faber Liuto Towers, Sonus Faber Liuto Center, Sonus Faber Liuto Bookshelves > Dual SVS PC12-Pluses

    Office: Phone/Tablet > AudioEngine B1 > McIntosh D100 > Bryston 4B-ST > Polk Audio LSiM-703's
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited August 2011
    falconcry72 wrote: »
    Don't worry about more or fewer watts; worry about better or poorer amp design.

    A smaller quantity of good, clean, high current watts is better than a large quantity of bad watts.

    Brands to look into (I'm forgetting a ton): parasound, rotel, b&k, adcom, bryston, nad, etc...
    Welcome to the club, Rolla. Ditto to: A smaller quantity of good, clean, high current watts is better than a large quantity of bad watts. Consider my Belles rated at a mere 80* watts into 8ohms will lift my 'A7s off the ground!
    * high current and warm sounding
    falconcry72 wrote: »
    I agree with EDUBAG, 125-200 watts per channel into 8 ohms of good power is plenty.
    Me too!

    cheers tony
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • gp4jesus
    gp4jesus Posts: 1,990
    edited August 2011
    fastz28 wrote: »
    NONE OF THOSE (Crown, QSC) GET THESE:
    Rotel* RB 1080 200wpc amp - $500
    Parasound HCA-2200 (I) 200wpc amp - $560
    NAD c272 150wpc (220w dynamic) - $399
    Adcom GFA 555II 200wpc - $395
    All great amps*. Consider a Hafler XL280 - $225**. From the manual:
    @ 8 ohms: 145wpc/180w clipping
    @ 4 ohms: 200wpc/280w clipping
    @ 2 ohms: 290wpc/360w clipping
    @ 8 ohms mono: 400w/560w clipping
    I list the lower impedance power ratings because, below 125hz, the 'A7's impedance slides to 4 ohms.
    * if I knew then what I know now I would have bought Rotels instead of Hafs; plan to upgrade after I finish other details
    ** shipped from ebay
    Samsung 60" UN60ES6100 LED, Outlaw Audio 976 Pre/Pro Samsung BDP, Amazon Firestick, Phillips CD Changer Canare 14 ga - LCR tweeters inside*; Ctr Ch outside BJC 10 ga: LCR mids “Foamed & Plugged**”, inside* & out
    8 ga Powerline: LR woofers, inside* & out
    *soldered **Rob the Man (Xschop) LR: Tri-amped RTi A7 w/Rotels. Woofers - 980BX; Tweets & Mids - 981, connected w/Monoprice Premiere ICs
    Ctr Ch: Rotel RB981 -> Bi-amped CSi A6 Surrounds: Premiere ICs ->Rotel 981 -> AR 12 ga -> RTi A3. 5 Subs: Sunfire True SW Signature -> LFE & Ctr Ch; 4 Audio Pro Evidence @ the “Corners”. Power Conditioning & Distribution: 4 dedicated 20A feeds; APC H15; 5 Furman Miniport 20s
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  • rolla
    rolla Posts: 5
    edited August 2011
    wow, i feel like such a beginner...lol
    thanks to all for the great replies...much appreciated:wink:

    well, in reference to my current setup, i dont have a home theatre set up in my place as i am not really into such things...i'm just looking for a nice basic audio setup to play music...right now, i have an Onkyo preamp, Yamaha 10-band EQ, wired to a powered 15" subwoofer and to the RTi A7's, which are hooked up to an Onkyo M-504 amp (165W/channel, 8 ohms)...

    so, from what's been posted, i guess i'm better off staying with the current amp, assuming that the Onkyo amp is providing the necessary clean power??
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