sr 10dvc power question
Hawaii6501
Posts: 9
I run two mm15 dvc's on a Boston Acoustic 2200 gt. Each sub gets 350rms at 2 ohms. I have a bnib SR10dvc to replace one of the 15's. Is 350rms enough for the SR? Could I at least break in the SR on the amp?
Post edited by Hawaii6501 on
Comments
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350 watts is fine for the SR10", even though it can handle more. The issue would be in running two different size subs. There could be response issues in this range.
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If I keep the 15 under 35hz and the 10 at 35hz and above; still a problem?
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I think you should only use the SR! You really shouldn't use two different model subs yet alone different sizes.
If you do that your amp will put out 900W RMS when bridged for one output and assuming you have wired your voice coils in parallel presenting a 2 ohm load. You should do just fine with that wattage. That would be using the SR to its full potential. Plus another factor is that they will both need different boxes. Wouldn't you need to tune the boxes very close to get the same Qtc so that the response of each sub was similar? I'm just saying don't put the MM in a smaller than recommended box and the SR in a larger than recommended box or something like that. Find out what size to get a qtc around .8 to .9 for each size. Don't have one with a qtc of 1.1 and another at .7.
Most music is not under 35Hz except for electronic stuff. Low E string of bass guitar is 41 Hz. So unless you plan on listening to pipe organs, its not critical. Splitting the responses means you would have to mess with the crossover and blend them because they have different low bass responses (dependent on cone size and box parameters). I'd keep it simple and just go with the SR. If you want it to go deep, put it in a box at qtc of .7 and it will give really good low bass extension and sound better at the same time.Audison Bit Ten
Kenwood X595
Polk MM6501
Polk MM1240
Mtx 704x
Alpine MRX50 -
I do have a channel for each sub going to the HU and setting the crossovers wont be a problem. The boxes will be to "ideal" volume; I would have to research "qtc". The difference in power consumption is my worry. I would like to try the two subs off the same amp, then get a smaller amp for the 15" and bridge the 10", then maybe I'll only use the 10" after all. As you can tell I'm new into the soundz game and curious about different set-ups.
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Hawaii6501 wrote: »I do have a channel for each sub going to the HU and setting the crossovers wont be a problem. The boxes will be to "ideal" volume; I would have to research "qtc". The difference in power consumption is my worry. I would like to try the two subs off the same amp, then get a smaller amp for the 15" and bridge the 10", then maybe I'll only use the 10" after all. As you can tell I'm new into the soundz game and curious about different set-ups.
Not sure but I think you want the low end extension from the 15 and the top end tightness from the 10. I'd just go with a 12" and get the best of both worlds. I would not split my less than two octaves of sub bass. But hey you've got the equipment, so try it. See what your ears tell you. -
yes; looking back, I wished I had gotten the SR12.
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You could always try to sell your 10 and get the SR12 from onlinecarstereo, my guess is that they will be going for 199 when they get low in stock which won't be too long because they are discontinued. The 10 inch SR SVC is 159 right now.Audison Bit Ten
Kenwood X595
Polk MM6501
Polk MM1240
Mtx 704x
Alpine MRX50 -
Regarding the low bass response in your car. You can always try corner loading the sub with the sub in one of the back corners of the trunk firing towards the fender. This is a technique used in HT but also worked wonders in many cars. This is currently where i have my setup. Having the sub as close to you as possible, for example right behind the seats, doesn't always sound the best. You could try using that SR10 and corner loading it if you worry about really low bass.Audison Bit Ten
Kenwood X595
Polk MM6501
Polk MM1240
Mtx 704x
Alpine MRX50