Truck repair question......

shawn474

Ok here is my obligatory plea to the car gurus to help me out so my wife doesnt ask me to get rid of my truck! I have had the transmission, front diff, rear axle assembly and front pinion seal replaced all under warranty. I just had to replace my abs actuator as well out of pocket. I have had a clicking noise coming from the undercarriage that has taken me a bit to diagnose. I am 99% sure it is my ujoints on the front driveshaft. I ordered the ujoints for 35 bucks. My question is what do i need to look out for? I have a 2005 nissan titan le crew cab 4x4 with 65k miles. It seems i can just remove the drive shaft and replace the ujoints. But do i have to drain the front diff fluid before removing the drive shaft. And do i need a bearing press? I have seen some try to do it using clamps and such but figured some of you might have some good tips.

Thanks in advance.
Shawn

treitz3

http://www.alldatadiy.com/ is your friend. I use it all the time on both of my vehicles and within a one year period, I have fixed or corrected many things that just plain bugged me as well as repaired some major issues. The savings were noticed immediately and I have probably saved 2K just in being able to do things myself.

VR3

I vote get rid of that thing dude. That is way to much crap to go wrong in an 05 at 65k miles - wait till it is out of warranty. You might have four different trannies by 200,000 miles

shawn474

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »

I vote get rid of that thing dude. That is way to much crap to go wrong in an 05 at 65k miles - wait till it is out of warranty. You might have four different trannies by 200,000 miles

Trust me I have thought hard about it. Problem is that I only owe one more year on it (less than 5K). If I can get by until uts paid off, I put less than 10k on it a year now. Before it was a daily driver!!!!! I don't "need" a truck, but really enjoy having one to haul stuff, do yardwork, tow my camper, etc. So the alternative is trading it in and getting another one. If I can wait a year, we will have no more car payments on our 3 vehicles. That is enough incentive for me to try to hold onto it and do some repairs myself. Ofcourse, its a whole different conversation if another transmission goes.

dorokusai

I'm selling mine Shawn....wanna reliable vehicle with low mileage and NOT a daily driver....more like a carport guard? :biggrin:

shawn474

dorokusai wrote: »

I'm selling mine Shawn....wanna reliable vehicle with low mileage and NOT a daily driver....more like a carport guard? :biggrin:

Hahahahaha; would love your truck. Just cant afford it man!

treitz3

Seriously, try http://www.alldatadiy.com/ . It has worked wonders not only for me but many here and you can find out so much more about your vehicle than you ever imagined. They explain everything in detail and basically, you see what the mechanics that work on your car see. For the subscribed price? Well worth the admission.

strider

Titan's engines are too powerful for the rest of the drivetrain, which means just about everything in it will need to be replaced at least once. Looking at your list, I'd say you'll need rear axle seals soon, which necessitates replacing the wheel bearing as well. Usually about $500 per side.

Make sure you're up to date with recalls as well, Titans have a few of them that are good to have taken care of.

VR3

Man - I just traded in my truck (which was flawless up until I traded it in) at 165,000 miles - I cant even imagine having a truck that has needed what yours has in the 65,000 mile range. From a long term stand point you would be better off selling that truck and getting one with a better track record.... or just a better vehicle period.

shawn474

treitz3 wrote: »

Seriously, try http://www.alldatadiy.com/ . It has worked wonders not only for me but many here and you can find out so much more about your vehicle than you ever imagined. They explain everything in detail and basically, you see what the mechanics that work on your car see. For the subscribed price? Well worth the admission.

Tom, what exactly does that site do? I had a buddy just send me the repair manual for it; all 2000 pages of it!!!!! I have a lot of tools and know a bit about repairs but dont have the obdII software or computer. I am going to do the ujoints by myself but would like to know what that site has to offer as well. Thanks for the suggestions

shawn474

strider wrote: »

Titan's engines are too powerful for the rest of the drivetrain, which means just about everything in it will need to be replaced at least once. Looking at your list, I'd say you'll need rear axle seals soon, which necessitates replacing the wheel bearing as well. Usually about $500 per side.

Make sure you're up to date with recalls as well, Titans have a few of them that are good to have taken care of.

I know all too well! I knew what i was getting into after my research so i blame myself. Its a really nice truck and powerful as sh$!. The rear axle assembly was replaced with the newer version that apparently diesnt have as many issues so i hope it lasts. Live and learn but it is fun to drive and a beast when its not in the shop!

shawn474

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »

Man - I just traded in my truck (which was flawless up until I traded it in) at 165,000 miles - I cant even imagine having a truck that has needed what yours has in the 65,000 mile range. From a long term stand point you would be better off selling that truck and getting one with a better track record.... or just a better vehicle period.

I know what youre saying, trey. Time will tell. The out of pocket repairs wl dictate what happens but i really like the idea of not having a car payment next year if it holds up and doesnt fall apart on me.

VR3

I can understand wanting to go a year without payments and save up so dough. I guess what I am suggesting is the second your warranty is gone the vehicle should probably be not to far behind it

shawn474

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »

I can understand wanting to go a year without payments and save up so dough. I guess what I am suggesting is the second your warranty is gone the vehicle should probably be not to far behind it

Warranty is gone now. I figure since all this has already happened, what else could possibly go wrong (famous last words!!!!!)?

VR3

lol - I hear ya man...

My truck was a champ but it was used and abused and right about 165,000 miles the tranny was slipping, the ac didnt work, 3rd brake light leaked, rotors were completely wore out, brakes needed replaced, was about due for new plugs, fluids, etc etc - all in all it just made more sense to me to get a new vehicle. Not to mention with a car - gas + car payment is as much as me driving my truck so my monthly budget literally did not go up at all LOL

shawn474

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »

lol - I hear ya man...

My truck was a champ but it was used and abused and right about 165,000 miles the tranny was slipping, the ac didnt work, 3rd brake light leaked, rotors were completely wore out, brakes needed replaced, was about due for new plugs, fluids, etc etc - all in all it just made more sense to me to get a new vehicle. Not to mention with a car - gas + car payment is as much as me driving my truck so my monthly budget literally did not go up at all LOL

Yep, sounds like it was time (especially with gas prices!). Mine hasnt been my daily driver for about a year. I spent 2k on a 1998 honda accord in flawless condition with 150k miles. Hasnt had one thing done except oil changes and tire rotations. Came with brand new tires and brakes and had a full service 2 months prior. Plus it was my granddads so i know what it has been through!

danger boy

shawn474 wrote: »

Ok here is my obligatory plea to the car gurus to help me out so my wife doesnt ask me to get rid of my truck! I have had the transmission, front diff, rear axle assembly and front pinion seal replaced all under warranty. I just had to replace my abs actuator as well out of pocket. I have had a clicking noise coming from the undercarriage that has taken me a bit to diagnose. I am 99% sure it is my ujoints on the front driveshaft. I ordered the ujoints for 35 bucks. My question is what do i need to look out for? I have a 2005 nissan titan le crew cab 4x4 with 65k miles. It seems i can just remove the drive shaft and replace the ujoints. But do i have to drain the front diff fluid before removing the drive shaft. And do i need a bearing press? I have seen some try to do it using clamps and such but figured some of you might have some good tips.

Thanks in advance.
Shawn

dump it.. it's a lemon.. no vehicle with that few miles should ever have that many problems. it's triple the number of problems I've had on my 91' truck.

i'd be spittin' kittens if I had a vehicle/truck with that many problems. :mad:

TNRabbit

If you're going to replace the ujoints, be sure you mark the flanges before you remove the bolts. They have to go back in the same alignment or you'll have vibration issues.