A few things

pentoncm
pentoncm Posts: 379
edited August 2011 in Car Audio & Electronics
So I took off my door panels of my monte carlo to check if my new MM6501 mids will fit in (all the sites said they wouldn't) and they do so I am glad. I didn't swap them out (currently db6501) because I still need to put in my new alpine 105 and imprint and i still haven't decided on the tweeter position yet.

Anyway while the door panels were off I noticed that behind the stock plastic grill is a two layered paper like material. I've had my panel off before and just didn't look close enough I guess. I went ahead and ripped that off of both doors and as expected there is a much cleaner sound and clearer upper mids and highs. I know that cloth grill is very bad to have over tweeters, mine are still in the stock location just above the woofers so it was attenuating the highs. What a cheap modification!

I'm curious, how much would it be to have a shop add fiberglass to my panels in order to mount the woofers at a better angle and get them out of the door panel? Right now the stock location is angled but they are still recessed in the door panel partly and so there are likely reflections there. I think the speakers are aimed at the middle of the opposite window, I would like to aim them opposite headrest.

Also, I'm really happy that the woofers are 2 ohm. That means that my amp can output 110 W into each.
Audison Bit Ten
Kenwood X595
Polk MM6501
Polk MM1240
Mtx 704x
Alpine MRX50
Post edited by pentoncm on

Comments

  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited August 2011
    It would probably cost a few hundred.

    You are right though that there are some reflections and resonance coming from inside that panel because the speaker is behind the panel so things are bouncing around all inside there.

    There is a cheaper way to fix that and its with modelling clay and foam.

    In my Accord, the speaker was a couple inches behind the door panel so I got all kinds of issues. I used non hardening modelling clay all around the area around the speaker and stuck foam in every crevasse I could find. You can also use trunk liner or other thin carper. Just put soft material over as much of the trim panel as you can. That way the waves that fire off between the speaker and the trim panel, wont bounce around and may be absorbed even.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
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    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited August 2011
    I cut my door panels cause I didn't want to hide the 6.75" sr mid behind a 5x7 opening in the door panel. I don't regret doing it for one second, but when I sell this pos I have two options. Install el cheapo 6.5" drivers in place of the sr's or replace the two door panels for $ 500. I'm looking for $ 20 6.5's that I can install. Any suggestions? :smile:

    And treat the MM as a normal 4ohm speaker. Polk just rated it at a frequency that offers lower impedance. You don't need to aim the mids at the headrests. Just bring them a few degrees more on axis while mounting them.
  • pentoncm
    pentoncm Posts: 379
    edited August 2011
    There are plenty of options for $20 coax 6.5s. Boss audio, soundstorm, pyle, power acoustik. I haven't listened to any of these brands myself but they can't be any worse than stock right?
    Audison Bit Ten
    Kenwood X595
    Polk MM6501
    Polk MM1240
    Mtx 704x
    Alpine MRX50