Polks back in the house! RTA11tl question.
Comments
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I was thinking that with the new RDO198's the spec's changed for thr crossover parts. I guess not.Mike
Pioneer SC-05 Receiver
Polk SDA-2b
Polk RTA 11TL w/RDO-198's
Polk RT25i Satelite Speakers
Polk CS 400 Center Speaker
Polk PSW 350 Sub Woofer
Samsung 46" 1080p LCD TV -
IM not sure on your speakers.I have this bookmarked so I could find the parts for my monitor7bs.If you use the same values on the caps and resistors you should be OK.One of the other members with the same speakers hopefully will chime in here.Dan
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If you haven't already, pull the xover out and have a close look at it. The all the values of the caps will be more obvious as well as where they go. Then simply replace them with new caps of the same value.2 Channel
Amp - Jas Audio Bravo 3.2 set
Power Cord - Tunami GPX
CDP - Marantz cd6002 - Audio gd Ref 5 Dac
Speakers - Tekton Lore,Polk Audio RTA11tl completely refreshed. -
Mike, the RDO198 tweeters were spec'd by Polk to be a direct replacement for the SL-3000 tweeters, so there's no need to further modify the crossover beyond what the 11TL schematic shows.
When I did my crossovers, I replaced all my caps and the two resistors: I used Sonicaps for the 12uF and 16uF values in the tweeter circuit, and used a Dayton 34uF cap in place of each 33uF original (which is well within spec). I had an issue where one of my crossovers was actually for a 8TL, so I had to replace the 0.30mH inductors on both--not necessary for you to do this.
Here's what I had when I popped out my crossovers: The xover marked 11T is an 11TL crossover; the one marked 8T is an 8TL crossover. Clear?:razz:
Here's one of them after replacing all parts. There's a Mills 1.5 ohm resistor in there somewhere.
Ah, there it is...
Jay
SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
Whoops! Substitute 33uF Dayton for 34uF original in post above.Jay
SDA 2BTL * Musical Fidelity A5cr amp * Oppo BDP-93 * Modded Adcom GDA-600 DAC * Rythmik F8 (x2)
Micro Seiki DQ-50 * Hagerman Cornet 2 Phono * A hodgepodge of cabling * Belkin PF60
Preamp rotation: Krell KSL (SCompRacer recapped) * Manley Shrimp * PS Audio 5.0 -
Nice work agfrost.
That's why mine looks more complicated (messy) because I used 2 x 17uf to make 34. It's a long way from the states to oz and I didn't want to take the risk of putting in something different. Not at first anyway.
I installed the H nuts last night and on a quick impression (it was too late for anything else) it increased the bass output a fair bit. My room setup is a bit of a big bass trap and I've always needed them reasonably close to the wall (16 inches) and closer together to get a nice bass. Well in the same spot they were far too bassy. Which is good so now can widen them up a bit and improver the soundstage even more. Will have a play around at sometime today I hope.
Anyone else install the H nuts and get a similar result?
PS. Im loving have some valves (sorry tubes) back in the house.
Cheers
Brad2 Channel
Amp - Jas Audio Bravo 3.2 set
Power Cord - Tunami GPX
CDP - Marantz cd6002 - Audio gd Ref 5 Dac
Speakers - Tekton Lore,Polk Audio RTA11tl completely refreshed. -
Thanks guys, I going to order the caps and resistors, Thanks againMike
Pioneer SC-05 Receiver
Polk SDA-2b
Polk RTA 11TL w/RDO-198's
Polk RT25i Satelite Speakers
Polk CS 400 Center Speaker
Polk PSW 350 Sub Woofer
Samsung 46" 1080p LCD TV