Questions For my Monitor 10 and Amplifier

Hardrock.ca

I got a pair of Monitor 10, Actually I got it from Ebay sometime ago.
I have a lot of questions about it, Really hope someone can help me out:

1) Is this Monitor 10 A or B?

See attached picture

2) Is this the so called peerless tweets?

See attached picture

3) What Amplifier can best drive this beast?
I am considering a Adcom GFA 555, is it a good choice?

4) Is the amplifier from Ebay usually OK to use? someone tell the Capacitor may not totally function for those old amplifier, it that true?

Thanks very much for your help!

jimbo1421

10B with the SL-2000 tweeter made by Polk. I haven't listened to that Adcom but many Polkies here think highly of them.

Jim

dorokusai

B
No
Yea
I don't think buying an Adcom from eBay is any different than buying any amplifier from that place. Ask questions and ask for a picture of the inside of the amp.

Hardrock.ca

Jim and dorokusai:

Thank you very much for the quick answer!
I am considering bid the Adcom in Ebay!

Another question: without peerless tweets, these speakers are still good speakers?

Thanks again

dorokusai

Yes, it's a great loudspeaker and the model that really put Polk Audio on the hi-fi map. The Peerless just has a smoother presentation but it's not inherently a better tweeter, just different.

jimbo1421

BTW, welcome to the club.

There is a good bit of work you can do on them to get the most out of them.

1. Press test: press and hold the passive bass radiator in and watch the MWs push out. Count the seconds it takes for the MWs to settle back to center. Less than 6 seconds and you should reseal the drivers and PR with Mortite or Armacell as gaskets. The passive radiator requires a certain back pressure to function well.

2. Polk makes a drop-in replacement tweeter for the SL-2000 which is much smoother. Known as the RDO-194, $48 each to Club Polk members.

3. Apply Dynamat to the steel baskets of the PR and MWs. This damps out ringing.

You can search the Vintage Speakers section for more info on each of these items.

Jim

Big Dawg

Everything Jim said is spot on. I would also recommend updating the crossovers. Those are very nice speakers, I especially like them for rock & heavy metal, but they're also quite good for almost any kind of music you like. If you update/upgrade them, you will never want to get rid of them.

Hardrock.ca

Thanks you all for the suggestions Jim:

Hi Jim regarding your 3 suggestions, here is more update and question;
1) Press test
I did the test, it seems it takes less than 6 seconds for the MWs to settle back to center, this suggests the driver should be resealed.

2) Any other/better replacement for SL-2000 in addition to RDO-194?

3)I still don't fully understand this option but I see a post below it may address this issue.
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74306

Hi Big Dawg: some question for you:
is Polk also supply the replacement for the Crossover for this model?
any more info?


Currently I temporarily hook it with my Onkyo 5.1 Receiver, it is not totally messed up, but obviously is not desirable at all, the high has 'harsh sound' and
the low lacks clarity. It seems I have a lot of work to do before make it truly sound.

Again thanks for all your help!

Hardrock.ca

Some more updates for my Ebay Bid for Adcom:

None of the sellers are willing to send the pictures inside so far

TNHNDYMAN

try audiogon for amps... as to the crossover upgrade, you can check partxpress, madisound, and soniccraft as the most common places for crossover parts. Most recommend SonicCaps for at least the high pass and some save some $ and use Solens for the mids. Most will tell you to spend the money and go SonicCap or Clarity Caps all around as well as using Mills resistors. Many threads in the vintage section address this. I have 2 pair of 10's and love them. Enjoy

nwohlford

Hardrock.ca wrote: »

4) Is the amplifier from Ebay usually OK to use? someone tell the Capacitor may not totally function for those old amplifier, it that true?

Thanks very much for your help!

The gfa-565 and gfa-585 had capacitor issues. I would be weary of buying one of them off Ebay unless the seller had it fixed or checked out. The gfa-555s as a whole did not have any such issues.
Buying from reputable seller who is willing to say that both channels sound fine should be safe.

Hardrock.ca

Thanks all the help and suggestions:
I have done some updates but I have more questions like any other newbie:

1) I have applied the Mortite-like materiel(MD Building Products 1/8 in. x 90 ft. Flexible Caulking Cord Weatherstrip from Home Depot) to reseal the speaker, I have done to the PR,MW,Tweeter and even the Crossover Panel.

2)I did the "press test" again, it seems NOT improved and it only counts less than 3 seconds as before to reset the MW's position after press the PR, I can not figure out what's wrong with my steps so that the sealing is not improved after applied the "Mortite-like" materiel, or I have to use materiel exactly.

3)My genius son(21 months) is very excited and followed dad's step. He have dented two of the MW's dust cap, I can not popped up by every means, seriously I hope this will not affect the sound.

4)Thanks a lot for the suggest, my amp is on the way from AudioGon, once it arrived, I can hook up to hear the sound effect. My 5.1 Onkyo receiver is too weak to drive these Monitors.

Hardrock.ca

Addintional questions, as I am lacking a PreAmp for now,
Can the receiver headphone out drive the input of a Adcom amp temporarily?
I also have a karaoke Mixer, maybe this one serve this purpose better?

Outfitter03

I don't believe either of the above options will serve you well as a preamp. You have not said if this is mostly for a two channel system or a building block toward a 5.1 home theater system.

If this is for two channel and you are looking for an inexpensive solution for a preamp I recommend getting a Denon Dra 295. I have had one for about a year and it sounds very good and has good functionality. It will also drive a smaller high efficient set of speakers with 50 watts of power. They are almost always on ebay and I payed about $100 for mine. They range from $50 in hammered condition to about $150 in mint and sometimes not used condition. The remote is nice and you definitely would want to buy one with that.

Here are a couple of links:

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-DRA-295-AM-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B0002266A4

jimbo1421

Hardrock.ca wrote: »

1) I have applied the Mortite-like materiel(MD Building Products 1/8 in. x 90 ft. Flexible Caulking Cord Weatherstrip from Home Depot) to reseal the speaker, I have done to the PR,MW,Tweeter and even the Crossover Panel.

2)I did the "press test" again, it seems NOT improved and it only counts less than 3 seconds as before to reset the MW's position after press the PR, I can not figure out what's wrong with my steps so that the sealing is not improved after applied the "Mortite-like" materiel, or I have to use materiel exactly.

There may be a small leak in one of your drivers and I would sure like to know how to test for that. I have some other Polks that are the same way after the Mortite treatment. Does anyone have a test method for this?

Jim

jimbo1421

Hardrock.ca wrote: »

2) Any other/better replacement for SL-2000 in addition to RDO-194?

I don't know of any. Any other tweeter would probably require a redesign of the crossover in order to work properly. FrankenPolks!

Jim

Hardrock.ca

jimbo1421 wrote: »

There may be a small leak in one of your drivers and I would sure like to know how to test for that. I have some other Polks that are the same way after the Mortite treatment. Does anyone have a test method for this?

Jim

First of all, thank you a lot reply my question.

In my side, here is what I did the test in every detailed steps

1) Press the PR and hold
2)The MW pushed out
3)the MW start to retreat back, around 3 seconds or less the MW stop to retreat(I use stopwatch to measure time)
4)Release the PR
5)the MW further retreat to its original place

Regarding the resealing
I applied Mortite-like materiel along the edge of the speaker,PR and Tweeter and XO's panel.

Perhaps I did a bad job so that the improvement is not significant.

As you pointed out, there may be some leaks in the drivers, but how this happened in both speakers?

Hope someway to figure out the cause.

Hardrock.ca

jimbo1421 wrote: »

I don't know of any. Any other tweeter would probably require a redesign of the crossover in order to work properly. FrankenPolks!

Jim

Thank for the recommendation, I also realized RDO-194 is the only chioce, actually I have ordered a pair form Polk, it's on the way too.

Hardrock.ca

Outfitter03 wrote: »

I don't believe either of the above options will serve you well as a preamp. You have not said if this is mostly for a two channel system or a building block toward a 5.1 home theater system.

If this is for two channel and you are looking for an inexpensive solution for a preamp I recommend getting a Denon Dra 295. I have had one for about a year and it sounds very good and has good functionality. It will also drive a smaller high efficient set of speakers with 50 watts of power. They are almost always on ebay and I payed about $100 for mine. They range from $50 in hammered condition to about $150 in mint and sometimes not used condition. The remote is nice and you definitely would want to buy one with that.

Here are a couple of links:

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-DRA-295-AM-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B0002266A4

Thanks very much let me this nice thing, I originally plan go for GTP-500 which is also from Adcom and is in the price range(I just saw one ended with $87 on Ebay ).
How do you think between these two? Look the Denon one has more function?

Hardrock.ca

Outfitter03 wrote: »

I don't believe either of the above options will serve you well as a preamp. You have not said if this is mostly for a two channel system or a building block toward a 5.1 home theater system.

If this is for two channel and you are looking for an inexpensive solution for a preamp I recommend getting a Denon Dra 295. I have had one for about a year and it sounds very good and has good functionality. It will also drive a smaller high efficient set of speakers with 50 watts of power. They are almost always on ebay and I payed about $100 for mine. They range from $50 in hammered condition to about $150 in mint and sometimes not used condition. The remote is nice and you definitely would want to buy one with that.

Here are a couple of links:

http://www.amazon.com/Denon-DRA-295-AM-Stereo-Receiver/dp/B0002266A4

again Thanks for this very detailed suggestion
I got a Harman Kardon HK 3490 from a friend, this one have a Pre-Out.
If is good , I will keep it for whatever time I want:)
Once my AMP arrived, I will hook HK3490 + Adcom GFA 555II to check out the result.

In summary of the Monitor project:

1)Applied Mortite, it seems failed to improve the air sealing, Any Remedy?

2)Replacement of RDO-194 in shipment from Polk

3)Apply Dynamat to the steel baskets of the PR and MWs Done

4)CrossOver Upgrade Still learn how to do

5)Apply the 'Ring' Still learn how to do and where to buy

Please kindly point out anything wrong with me

Thanks again

Hardrock.ca

Big Dawg wrote: »

Everything Jim said is spot on. I would also recommend updating the crossovers. Those are very nice speakers, I especially like them for rock & heavy metal, but they're also quite good for almost any kind of music you like. If you update/upgrade them, you will never want to get rid of them.

I have played with different music on my Monitor 10 hooked with my 'Weak' Onkyo receiver at a not-too-loud volume.

Many kinds of music are acceptable, but when play Classic music, I refer something like Symphony No. 5 (Beethoven) , it totally messed up, just wondering anyone can play this kind music on Polk Monitor 10 good enough? Or this is the weak area Monitor 10 is inherently incapable? Otherwise is only my speakers are 'defective':)?

Arcody

I just went in a played Richard Strauss Eine Alpensinfonie, as well as Mozart Requiem and my 10's responded beautifully.
I just came back from listening to a set of Polk RTi A5, A7 and A9 speakers with the possible thought of "upgrading". These 10's blow them out of the water 23 years after buying them.

my press test also has a 3-4 second resettle time, but still sound great. I haven't done any maintenance on them since purchase.

Hardrock.ca

Arcody wrote: »

I just went in a played Richard Strauss Eine Alpensinfonie, as well as Mozart Requiem and my 10's responded beautifully.
I just came back from listening to a set of Polk RTi A5, A7 and A9 speakers with the possible thought of "upgrading". These 10's blow them out of the water 23 years after buying them.

my press test also has a 3-4 second resettle time, but still sound great. I haven't done any maintenance on them since purchase.

Thank you very much for your input, this really gives confidence on the speakers, I hope I really can play those Classics beautifully once my AMP arrives. Hope everything will be resolved once get the right AMP.

BTW, Can you tell me how do you hook up your Monitors, I means Amplifier and Pre-Amplifiers.

Again thanks and have a very nice weekend.

Arcody

Hardrock.ca wrote: »

Thank you very much for your input, this really gives confidence on the speakers, I hope I really can play those Classics beautifully once my AMP arrives. Hope everything will be resolved once get the right AMP.

BTW, Can you tell me how do you hook up your Monitors, I means Amplifier and Pre-Amplifiers.

Again thanks and have a very nice weekend.

I may not be the source to ask about that. I have mine hooked up to a old 85w Yamaha amp (AX-500u). All analog - you push button "a" for first set of speakers, you push button "b" for second set of speakers, and you push them both, for both. Veeeeeeeeery simple. No shiny lights of any kind. Second speakers are outside on back patio. Also Polks - atrium series. Very nice. Even though it's a bit old, I can blow the glass out of the windows if I want to.

I want to update my system and am looking at Onkyo and Denon as amp.
Nothing is decided yet. I first have to find speakers that outshine these Polk 10's. Tough act to follow.
Good luck on your setup.

Russell

DON73

Hardrock.ca wrote: »

First of all, thank you a lot reply my question.

In my side, here is what I did the test in every detailed steps

1) Press the PR and hold
2)The MW pushed out
3)the MW start to retreat back, around 3 seconds or less the MW stop to retreat(I use stopwatch to measure time)
4)Release the PR
5)the MW further retreat to its original place

Regarding the resealing
I applied Mortite-like materiel along the edge of the speaker,PR and Tweeter and XO's panel.

Perhaps I did a bad job so that the improvement is not significant.

As you pointed out, there may be some leaks in the drivers, but how this happened in both speakers?

Hope someway to figure out the cause.

Hardrock I think you either didn't get the mortite around the speakers and there is a leak there. You may need to take them out and check for voids. Did you mortite the Passive driver? Air could leak out from there. I haven't put mortite on my 10s but I did on my 7s and when I push the passive driver in and hold the midrange will stay in as long as I hold the passive in. Unless there is a leak in one of your speakers the mortite properly applied will seal the speaker very well.

Hardrock.ca

DON73 wrote: »

Hardrock I think you either didn't get the mortite around the speakers and there is a leak there. You may need to take them out and check for voids. Did you mortite the Passive driver? Air could leak out from there. I haven't put mortite on my 10s but I did on my 7s and when I push the passive driver in and hold the midrange will stay in as long as I hold the passive in. Unless there is a leak in one of your speakers the mortite properly applied will seal the speaker very well.

Yes I mortite the Passive driver and tweeter too.
You means once you press the PR and Hold, the Midrange will be pushed out and NOT retreat at all until you release the PR, this is like something impossible to me! Thanks for the input!

Tony M

Hardrock.ca,

Don't get to hung up on the Monitor 10's...Recheck your sealant and then whatever the pressure test is, try to live with it.

Enjoy those speakers with your new tweeters!!! Those are awsome speakers and need to be enjoyed instead of over scrutinizing them.

You can then focus on getting you a set of SDA's and then go DETAIL crazy. You'll have months of things to do and you'll enjoy every upgrade as well x10.

Start enjoying your music after you put those new tweeters in.:cool:

DON73

Hardrock.ca wrote: »

Yes I mortite the Passive driver and tweeter too.
You means once you press the PR and Hold, the Midrange will be pushed out and NOT retreat at all until you release the PR, this is like something impossible to me! Thanks for the input!

Yes. As long as I hold the passive in the mid stays out. I've only tried this for a few minutes........not all day. If the mids take a few seconds to move out that is probably ok.