Concrete board under wood floors?

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,611
edited July 2011 in The Clubhouse
I would like to do put concrete board under my wood floor when I redo my den to reinforce it...

What do you guys think? Any reason this would be a no go?
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
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Comments

  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,773
    edited July 2011
    Not sure if it's a no go, but I've never seen it done. Why does the floor need reinforcing? Flexing?
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  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited July 2011
    I'm guessing he wants it because wood floors resonate more than concrete. So concrete board might be the next best thing to concrete slab? I dunno, just guessing.
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  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,222
    edited July 2011
    Good Guess!!! Audiophiles are always thinking!!!!
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited July 2011
    A little bit of everything - for audio purposes, flexing... and... concrete board is just awesome! ;)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited July 2011
    I would be more interested in putting it behind the sheet-rock on the walls. Mainly to keep out the boom boom from cars, and when inconsiderate neighbors play their stereo outside. A side-effect is it would keep my HT booms, and stereo noise inside the house.
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  • Airplay355
    Airplay355 Posts: 4,298
    edited July 2011
    BlueFox you're doing it all wrong. You don't deal with noisy neighbors by keeping their noise out, you deal with them by drowning their noise in your own noise ;)
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  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited July 2011
    Airplay355 wrote: »
    BlueFox you're doing it all wrong. You don't deal with noisy neighbors by keeping their noise out, you deal with them by drowning their noise in your own noise ;)

    Yup thats where the fun starts !
    Nothing better than a big system on tap when a neighbor thinks he can drown you out :)
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  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited July 2011
    Airplay355 wrote: »
    BlueFox you're doing it all wrong. You don't deal with noisy neighbors by keeping their noise out, you deal with them by drowning their noise in your own noise ;)

    Yes. And no. That is what starts fights, and then everybody loses. I do call the police when necessary and let them deal with it, but you can't call the police for every thing. Rather than wearing ear plugs and hearing protectors, it would be better to have a home that provides a bit of noise insulation. Who knows. It might even be more energy efficient. :wink:

    One of the more irritating things for me is working all day, coming home to relax while listening to a string quartet, and thinking, "I do not remember boom boom boom being in this before. Oh, it is some bass-hole down the street." :rolleyes:
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited July 2011
    Concrete board would be excessive for noise isolation...

    There are much more effective methods than that...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited July 2011
    There is there dense hard foam they use in airports between the studs I only know it as grillblocks or stink foam its kinda like pumice block , you can decrease mids/highs but low freq stuff will go out regardless ( I think )
    but the pricey stuff is windows and doors listening studios use a dual door setup I have heard of a secondary wall that is 2 feet away with offset studs .
    Its all pricey (material) except the drywall version but I am not to sure how well that works , I think using aura bass shakers in the furniture instead of real subs is supposed to cut the lingering bass down , and no windows ..
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  • Midnite Mick
    Midnite Mick Posts: 1,591
    edited July 2011
    I would say no myself. Wood and concrete generally don't go well together. You would also then have to glue down the hardwood floor as nailing through the concrete board would be messy and likely not hold well.

    Just my thoughts.

    Mike
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  • del44
    del44 Posts: 686
    edited July 2011
    Do you mean "wonder board" or "durock"? The backerboard you would use for tile. Probably not the best. I've never used it as a subfloor. It kinda depends on what type of subfloor you have now. Do you know?
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  • AudioGenics
    AudioGenics Posts: 2,567
    edited July 2011
    depends on the wood floor material

    glue down
    floating
    nail / staple

    see

    http://www.hardwoodcouncil.com/

    http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Installing_Hardwood_Floors.html
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited July 2011
    ^^+1^^

    Either add more joists,beams & posts or do a double layer of T&G 3/4" Sturdifloor plywood with a buttload of PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive between the layers. Screw the top sheets to the lower ones with a 8" square grid pattern.:smile:
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  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,611
    edited July 2011
    Its not a huge concern, just a possible idea!

    The floor is currently old slat wood with solid oak 1.5" strip

    I plan to add like a 1/2" or so layer of plywood then float a wood floor over it in the future :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited July 2011
    del44 wrote: »
    Do you mean "wonder board" or "durock"? The backerboard you would use for tile. Probably not the best. I've never used it as a subfloor. It kinda depends on what type of subfloor you have now. Do you know?

    1/2" Durock bedded in thinset on top of 3/4" Sturdifloor ply nailed with 1 3/4" ringshank nails provided the base for my 12" sq. ceramic tile kitchen floor. Like a rock!:wink:
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  • del44
    del44 Posts: 686
    edited July 2011
    Older home? Probably 3/4 boards run at 45 degrees to the joists that are 16" on center. Then 3/4 oak flooring over the top for a total of 1.5 inches. This should be plenty strong for a floating floor. The one concern I would have would be squeaks in the subfloor (3/4 pine boards). Screws can fix that problem though.


    GDB, Yes, that's the best way to install tile. Most tile setters want a minimum of 1 1/4 inches under the tile. With at least 2x10 floor joists.
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  • gdb
    gdb Posts: 6,012
    edited July 2011
    Nope,T&G ply glued & nailed to joists 16" OC ( house IS ancient though!):smile:
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