Above ground pool install pics

disneyjoe7

Yes, but get your water tested, or check it yourself. I wouldn't add anything else it was under 35 or so. Pucks will bring it up. Powder maybe a super chlorine so yes your levels will go down fast like < 24hrs.


BTW if it was in the future above 100, you can have many issues with that pool. IMHO.

Ron-P

Not sure what you mean Joe.

Sherardp

Looks fun Ron, enjoy it bro. Wish I had the space.

disneyjoe7

Ron,

Not sure what you have for a chlorine system you have, so I added some pictures to help you / me.

The kind you place in pool. If so you need the Chlorine Puck thing about 1 a week I would think.

http://www.cheappoolproducts.com/Floating~Chlorine~Dispenser~-~Adjustable_44_3477~product.html


The kind that is plumped in line after the filter, and pump. Again 1 max in this.

http://www.cheappoolproducts.com/Hayward~In-Line~Chlorinator~Chemical~Feeder_44_1059~product.html

Chlorine pucks have "Stabilizer" in them so in time this builds up, And a level above 100 is very difficult to handle. A pool could turn on a dime and many times over night, where you can't see the bottom. This level is measured from 0 to 100+, they don't care about residential pool levels but in Florida commercial pools are forced to lower a level about 100 if not a little lower now. The only way to lower stabilizer is to remove water and add new, so if 100 and like to lower to 50 you would need to lower pool to half and re-add water.

steveinaz

HTH Stabilizer---Walmart, comes in a 4lb container. It will take a LONG time to get your CYA level up my using only pucks. Use the calculator link I gave you to determine how much CYA to add---I'd start with 50ppm. You''ll notice your chlorine levels will hold significantly longer.

Does your test kit measure CYA?

Remember, CYA=Stabilizer=Conditioner; they're all the same thing, and all contain CYrunaric Acid (CYA).

Here's the product: http://www.poolgeek.com/HTH-Stabilizer-Conditioner-P4000.aspx

Ron-P

I added stabilizer about 1/2 hour ago and the stuff is still sitting at the bottom of the pool. How long does it take to dissipate, and can I go in before it does? The container says nothing.

disneyjoe7

Ron, I wouldn't let anything sit on bottom of pool, got a brush? If so use it to mix it up some, in the future maybe better to take a bucket of pool water add stabilizer and poor down skimmer slowly. Unles you could sit it up some I wouldn't get in pool. IMHO.

gdb

With no drain on the bottom, you'd be better off to add everything to the skimmer basket, to get thorough distribution by the pump.

Ron-P

Great, why can't they state that on the bucket? ****!!! Now I have to somehow get it up off the bottom, I don't have a vacuum of any kind. They didn't say anything other than the mix ratio.

disneyjoe7

Move it Ron Move it, any broom anything move it now. It get HOT it can melt something MOVE NOW.

disneyjoe7

Heck Ron jump in move it with your feet.

Jstas

Hey Ron, in the future, any chemicals you add, especially dry ones, mix them in to a bucket, gallon or two in size, with warm water first. Mix it until it dissolves in the water. The warm water helps dissolve the chemical in the water. Then start chucking it around in the pool until the bucket is empty. Rinse the bucket in the pool water. That way you don't get chunks on the bottom or floaters on the top and you don't necessarily have to pour full strength, caustic chemicals directly in to your filter.

Joe08867

Yeah that stuff is bad to let sit. Get it moving. It will dissipate pretty quickly.

I usually mix stuff in a 5 gallon bucket then put it in the pool. It keeps stuff like this from happening.

Ron-P

I've been moving it as best I can, with my pool net and my feet. But this crap will not dissipate. Lots of particles just floating around and sitting at the bottom.

I'm half tempted to drain the pool and clean it out.

Ron-P

Ok, I think I'm good.

I waded in the pool and just drug my net around scooping up all the bigger particles (and bugs) and it seems about 90% of the stabilizer is gone.

I'll keep a watchful eye and keep the filter running throughout the day until all is cleared up. Thanks for the tip on using warm water in a bucket first. I'll be doing that from now on.

disneyjoe7

Ron, I'm sure warm water helps but let's be serious here. You and I live in Sunshine so are pools are a bit warming then John's in Jersey.

I just use pool water to start with, use it, and rinse it. Easy enough.

BTW I think I panic a little here.... I don't think it's Stabilizer that get hot, but Calcium /Hardness which you may never need since it's used for concrete pools.

Joe08867

Hey don't pick on NJ. The water in my pool this morning was 90. And I don't use a solar cover.

Jstas

Ummm...by warm, I mean 120 degree water out of your tap. Not the warm pee temps you have in your pool. If you're dissolving a pile of chemicals intended for 1700 gallons of water in to 2 gallons of water, your solution ratio is way off. Starting with a higher temperature of water will promote dissolution and suspension of the chemical in the water so that you can saturate the chemical to promote better dispersion through out the pool.

Did you have basic chemistry in high school? Or were you not paying attention in that class either? I mean, it's obvious you slept through English class.

gdb

Do you not have any ability to hook up a vacuum hose ? That, IMO is an essential component of pool care, I'd rig one up iffin I was you!

disneyjoe7

Jstas wrote: »

Ummm...by warm, I mean 120 degree water out of your tap. Not the warm pee temps you have in your pool. If you're dissolving a pile of chemicals intended for 1700 gallons of water in to 2 gallons of water, your solution ratio is way off. Starting with a higher temperature of water will promote dissolution and suspension of the chemical in the water so that you can saturate the chemical to promote better dispersion through out the pool.

Did you have basic chemistry in high school? Or were you not paying attention in that class either? I mean, it's obvious you slept through English class.

Hmmm.... English well to tell you the truth, needed to spend twice as much time in that class just to be where I am now. There's a reason, but I won't tell you why that is.

And then again I'm sure you don't need 120f water for pool chemistry. I own and do all my pool needs for the past 17 years now over 2 pools, without any major issues using only pool water.

Stupid Steve using pool water only.

Ron-P

gdb wrote: »

Do you not have any ability to hook up a vacuum hose ? That, IMO is an essential component of pool care, I'd rig one up iffin I was you!

It's on the list. But right now the bottom is just about 100% clean and the stabilizer is all gone. Tonight I'll test it and see if it was worth the money to buy this stuff.

faster100

Ron,
when we had our easy up pools i got a cheap garden hose assisted pool vacumm. It had a brush on one side and a removable mesh bad to catch the leaves and debri. works great, cheap at walmart and all ya need for that size pool.

with the plastic bottom you dont want to leave chemicals on the bottom as it will weaken it, I had white spots from those mistakes. we also used a pool floater and puck all the time, while still doing the regular chlorine and chemicals.

Ron-P

Thanks bro. I will check out Wally Mart!

maximillian

See if you can get a vacuum that hooks up to your skimmer's intake. That way your filter will provide suction and you only need the hose and the vacuum head which are relatively inexpensive. They have elaborate automated vacuums but for your pool size you don't need that.

http://youtu.be/ntG50rvQcio

schwarcw

I guess in Southern California there is no need for a heater eh?

Looks terrific Ron!

Good luck and enjoy the pool.

sundeios

The preference is usually given to that managemart business automation system, which corresponds to the challenges facing the organization today, and is also capable of “growing” in the future with the company. Therefore, in order to make a final decision on the choice of a software product, the directory must define what changes are expected by the enterprise in the next few years.

Willow

sundeios wrote: »

The preference is usually given to that managemart business automation system, which corresponds to the challenges facing the organization today, and is also capable of “growing” in the future with the company. Therefore, in order to make a final decision on the choice of a software product, the directory must define what changes are expected by the enterprise in the next few years.

You sure have very insightful s hit to add to all these old threads.

rooftop59

Ron-P wrote: »

Thanks bro. I will check out Wally Mart!

Anyone here from ole Ron lately? Hasn’t checked in in awhile, would be interested to see how he ending led up blending in the pool...

BlueFox

sundeios wrote: »

The preference is usually given to that managemart business automation system, which corresponds to the challenges facing the organization today, and is also capable of “growing” in the future with the company. Therefore, in order to make a final decision on the choice of a software product, the directory must define what changes are expected by the enterprise in the next few years.

You forgot your SPAM link. Still learning?