Staining the sides of an LSi7?

BeefJerky
BeefJerky Posts: 1,320
edited July 2011 in Speakers
So, here is my dilemma. I had a single ebony LSi7 that needed a partner. I took a chance and bid on a defective cherry LSi7 on eBay. Thankfully, my gamble paid off since only the woofer was bad (rubbing voice coil). It was $57 with shipping for the LSi7 plus $65 for the driver from Polk with overnight shipping and the Polkie discount. So, a total of $122 for the speaker works for me.

Now, the only "issue" is that one is ebony and one is cherry. Not a huge deal, and I can live with it. However, if there is a fairly easy way to get them to match, I would be quite interested. I personally prefer the ebony color, but would be okay if both were cherry too.

Any tips?

Thanks!
Post edited by BeefJerky on

Comments

  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited July 2011
    How about removing those wood panel altogether completely? McLoki did that and it looks marvelous.
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • BeefJerky
    BeefJerky Posts: 1,320
    edited July 2011
    From what I gather, that is only possible with the original LSi series since they used tape to hold them on. I've heard the newer series (the ones I have) use a strong enough glue that I would destroy the sides if I tried to remove them.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    edited July 2011
    Hey BeefJerky,

    Glad to know you're enjoying those lsis and found a partner for the loner! As for matching them, I am pretty sure that you are right that those are the newer versions with the very strong adhesive attaching the side panels thus not a good idea to remove them. Basically they are mdf with a thin veener over top I believe. I know that with shelves covered in veneer, I just lightly sanded using a little hand sander, and then put a couple coats of kilz, and the painted. The shelves look great. I don't think that you re-stain because the veneer is too thin, but I think you can paint.

    Good luck!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • BeefJerky
    BeefJerky Posts: 1,320
    edited July 2011
    Rooftop59,

    I am definitely enjoying them! But, they sure caused a major case of upgraditis! My wallet is not very happy right now, but it will get over it. I now have LSi9's and an LSiC for my front stage, and 4 LSi7's for the surrounds and surround backs.

    Thanks again!
  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited July 2011
    BeefJerky wrote: »
    From what I gather, that is only possible with the original LSi series since they used tape to hold them on. I've heard the newer series (the ones I have) use a strong enough glue that I would destroy the sides if I tried to remove them.

    ah..wasn't aware of those differences.
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • rooftop59
    rooftop59 Posts: 8,121
    edited July 2011
    Man I bet that system is awesome! If I am ever in h-town I might just have to pay you a visit!
    Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
    Game Room 5.1.4:
    Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra

    Bedroom 2.1
    Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,768
    edited July 2011
    I'm not touching this one.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BeefJerky
    BeefJerky Posts: 1,320
    edited July 2011
    F1nut wrote: »
    I'm not touching this one.
    Well, that sure was helpful. :rolleyes:
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,768
    edited July 2011
    Actually it was, you just need to learn how to read between the lines.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited July 2011
    BeefJerky wrote: »
    Now, the only "issue" is that one is ebony and one is cherry. Not a huge deal, and I can live with it. However, if there is a fairly easy way to get them to match, I would be quite interested. I personally prefer the ebony color, but would be okay if both were cherry
    Thanks!

    if I had your what I would do is lightely sand both being carefull not to go through the venner , spray both with flat black spray paint , than sand the "bumps" with 320 grit or steel wool , respray it and sand bumps untill smooth , MAKE SURE YOU BLOW OFF DUST BETWEEN COATS , than when it looks good and is flat spray a coat of satin black deft lacquor over it (or gloss)
    The gloss will be more work and show any faults more .
    but satin looks real good if you want I will add pictures of a done cs350 I did ..
  • DON73
    DON73 Posts: 516
    edited July 2011
    20hz wrote: »
    if I had your what I would do is lightely sand both being carefull not to go through the venner , spray both with flat black spray paint , than sand the "bumps" with 320 grit or steel wool , respray it and sand bumps untill smooth , MAKE SURE YOU BLOW OFF DUST BETWEEN COATS , than when it looks good and is flat spray a coat of satin black deft lacquor over it (or gloss)
    The gloss will be more work and show any faults more .
    but satin looks real good if you want I will add pictures of a done cs350 I did ..




    I painted a 5jr with black satin enamel. After it hardened for a few days I found that it was still not scratch resistant so I sprayed it with two coats of poly and after hardening for a couple of days it was very resistant to scratching. geof27 removed the vinyl from a M7 or M5 and painted the particle board until he had a piano black finish.....looked beautiful.
    TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE.
  • BeefJerky
    BeefJerky Posts: 1,320
    edited July 2011
    I admit that I'm afraid of sanding and repainting the sides. I'm not experienced with any of that, and I seriously worry about messing something up. I'd rather have mismatched (but decent looking speakers), than a hideously messed up pair. Maybe I can find someone around my area who knows what they're doing. Or, maybe someone would like to trade one of my LSi7's for one of the opposite color :biggrin:
  • 20hz
    20hz Posts: 636
    edited July 2011
    your right unless one is damaged and needs repair I would find it hard to damage a nice finish also .
    Best bet finding a single to match plus this way you will get some extra drivers .
  • BeefJerky
    BeefJerky Posts: 1,320
    edited July 2011
    I had enough trouble finding this single speaker, and it was on eBay. I even went as far as posting wanted ads here, on agon and on my local craigslist. No bites on any of those.
  • geoff727
    geoff727 Posts: 546
    edited July 2011
    DON73 wrote: »
    geof27 removed the vinyl from a M7 or M5 and painted the particle board until he had a piano black finish.....looked beautiful.

    Thank you, Don. I appreciate the compliments you continue to give my projects.

    BeefJerky, if you run out of options, you are more than welcome to contact me about a refinish. Most likely, it would involve all 4 sides (2 on each speaker) to achieve a perfect color match (in whatever color and/or veneer you wanted). Obviously, yu'd have to send the speakers to me, and wait for a while for me to do the work (I work rather slowly).

    Also, FWIW, I am currently redoing a pair of LSI7's from the ground up. The sides on these, which are now seamlessly mated to the main enclosure, will be done in a deep, bright red with a piano gloss finish, next to the re-done black piano gloss of the front, top, bottom, and back.

    Best,
    Geoff
    Polk SDA SRS 2
    Polk RTA 15tl
    Polk Monitor 7C
    Polk Lsi9

    Infinity RS-II (modded)
    Infinity RS-IIIa (modded)
    Infinity RS 2.5 x 2

    Magnepan 1.6QR (modded)

    System: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1290711373