Staining the sides of an LSi7?
So, here is my dilemma. I had a single ebony LSi7 that needed a partner. I took a chance and bid on a defective cherry LSi7 on eBay. Thankfully, my gamble paid off since only the woofer was bad (rubbing voice coil). It was $57 with shipping for the LSi7 plus $65 for the driver from Polk with overnight shipping and the Polkie discount. So, a total of $122 for the speaker works for me.
Now, the only "issue" is that one is ebony and one is cherry. Not a huge deal, and I can live with it. However, if there is a fairly easy way to get them to match, I would be quite interested. I personally prefer the ebony color, but would be okay if both were cherry too.
Any tips?
Thanks!
Now, the only "issue" is that one is ebony and one is cherry. Not a huge deal, and I can live with it. However, if there is a fairly easy way to get them to match, I would be quite interested. I personally prefer the ebony color, but would be okay if both were cherry too.
Any tips?
Thanks!
Post edited by BeefJerky on
Comments
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How about removing those wood panel altogether completely? McLoki did that and it looks marvelous.I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
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From what I gather, that is only possible with the original LSi series since they used tape to hold them on. I've heard the newer series (the ones I have) use a strong enough glue that I would destroy the sides if I tried to remove them.
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Hey BeefJerky,
Glad to know you're enjoying those lsis and found a partner for the loner! As for matching them, I am pretty sure that you are right that those are the newer versions with the very strong adhesive attaching the side panels thus not a good idea to remove them. Basically they are mdf with a thin veener over top I believe. I know that with shelves covered in veneer, I just lightly sanded using a little hand sander, and then put a couple coats of kilz, and the painted. The shelves look great. I don't think that you re-stain because the veneer is too thin, but I think you can paint.
Good luck!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
Rooftop59,
I am definitely enjoying them! But, they sure caused a major case of upgraditis! My wallet is not very happy right now, but it will get over it. I now have LSi9's and an LSiC for my front stage, and 4 LSi7's for the surrounds and surround backs.
Thanks again! -
From what I gather, that is only possible with the original LSi series since they used tape to hold them on. I've heard the newer series (the ones I have) use a strong enough glue that I would destroy the sides if I tried to remove them.
ah..wasn't aware of those differences.I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie. -
Man I bet that system is awesome! If I am ever in h-town I might just have to pay you a visit!Living Room 2.2: Usher BE-718 "tiny dancers"; Dual DIY Dayton audio RSS210HF-4 Subs with Dayton SPA-250 amps; Arcam SA30; Musical Fidelity A308; Sony UBP-x1000es
Game Room 5.1.4: Denon AVR-X4200w; Sony UBP-x700; Definitive Technology Power Monitor 900 mains, CLR-3000 center, StudioMonitor 350 surrounds, ProMonitor 800 atmos x4; Sub - Monoprice Monolith 15in THX Ultra
Bedroom 2.1 Harmon Kardon HK3490; Bluesounds Node N130; Polk RT25i; ACI Titan Subwoofer -
I'm not touching this one.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
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Actually it was, you just need to learn how to read between the lines.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Now, the only "issue" is that one is ebony and one is cherry. Not a huge deal, and I can live with it. However, if there is a fairly easy way to get them to match, I would be quite interested. I personally prefer the ebony color, but would be okay if both were cherry
Thanks!
if I had your what I would do is lightely sand both being carefull not to go through the venner , spray both with flat black spray paint , than sand the "bumps" with 320 grit or steel wool , respray it and sand bumps untill smooth , MAKE SURE YOU BLOW OFF DUST BETWEEN COATS , than when it looks good and is flat spray a coat of satin black deft lacquor over it (or gloss)
The gloss will be more work and show any faults more .
but satin looks real good if you want I will add pictures of a done cs350 I did .. -
if I had your what I would do is lightely sand both being carefull not to go through the venner , spray both with flat black spray paint , than sand the "bumps" with 320 grit or steel wool , respray it and sand bumps untill smooth , MAKE SURE YOU BLOW OFF DUST BETWEEN COATS , than when it looks good and is flat spray a coat of satin black deft lacquor over it (or gloss)
The gloss will be more work and show any faults more .
but satin looks real good if you want I will add pictures of a done cs350 I did ..
I painted a 5jr with black satin enamel. After it hardened for a few days I found that it was still not scratch resistant so I sprayed it with two coats of poly and after hardening for a couple of days it was very resistant to scratching. geof27 removed the vinyl from a M7 or M5 and painted the particle board until he had a piano black finish.....looked beautiful.TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE. -
I admit that I'm afraid of sanding and repainting the sides. I'm not experienced with any of that, and I seriously worry about messing something up. I'd rather have mismatched (but decent looking speakers), than a hideously messed up pair. Maybe I can find someone around my area who knows what they're doing. Or, maybe someone would like to trade one of my LSi7's for one of the opposite color :biggrin:
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your right unless one is damaged and needs repair I would find it hard to damage a nice finish also .
Best bet finding a single to match plus this way you will get some extra drivers . -
I had enough trouble finding this single speaker, and it was on eBay. I even went as far as posting wanted ads here, on agon and on my local craigslist. No bites on any of those.
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geof27 removed the vinyl from a M7 or M5 and painted the particle board until he had a piano black finish.....looked beautiful.
Thank you, Don. I appreciate the compliments you continue to give my projects.
BeefJerky, if you run out of options, you are more than welcome to contact me about a refinish. Most likely, it would involve all 4 sides (2 on each speaker) to achieve a perfect color match (in whatever color and/or veneer you wanted). Obviously, yu'd have to send the speakers to me, and wait for a while for me to do the work (I work rather slowly).
Also, FWIW, I am currently redoing a pair of LSI7's from the ground up. The sides on these, which are now seamlessly mated to the main enclosure, will be done in a deep, bright red with a piano gloss finish, next to the re-done black piano gloss of the front, top, bottom, and back.
Best,
GeoffPolk SDA SRS 2
Polk RTA 15tl
Polk Monitor 7C
Polk Lsi9
Infinity RS-II (modded)
Infinity RS-IIIa (modded)
Infinity RS 2.5 x 2
Magnepan 1.6QR (modded)
System: http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl?vevol&1290711373