If you were to build a speaker...

VR3

The more I get into this the more I would like to build my own set of speakers..

And I really do not want to do a tried and true DIY design...

What are your thoughts? What kind of software would I need?

Jstas

http://www.eminencedesigner.com/

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=500-945&utm_source=googleps

or WinISD:

http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisd

Those a good place to start with and nice and cheap.

Get this book:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=500-035&FTR=loudspeaker cookbook

and start reading.

Face

Measuring setup: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=390-790&scqty=1

Woofer Tester: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=390-804&FTR=woofer%20tester (you already have this)

The best free design software, in fact, it's better than some software that you have to pay for. Easiest to use too: http://audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html

3rd party FR and distortion measurements: http://www.zaphaudio.com/


What are you design goals? Any specific drivers in mind yet?

VR3

I dont know if I want to venture to far out there (at first) - I could see using the drivers in my Super Towers at first to keep my cost down...

To be honest I want to make kind of a high end powered tower like Definitive produces (except direct radiating) and with high end drivers...

Or a monitor like the Power Monitor series from Definitive... just seems interesting

Face

Powered, as in powered built in sub or fully active?

I wouldn't part out your current retail speakers to build something else. Start with some inexpensive(not cheap) drivers then work up to some nice high end drivers.

Peerless's HDS line is very easy to work with and sound good too. Pairing them to a decent Vifa, SEAS, or Dayton tweeter would be a fun learning experience.

Face

FYI, PE's pre-made cabinets are nice too. Just be sure to cover the baffle with painter's tape before taking the router to them.

FTGV

I would start with a proven 2 way design such as a Zaph SR71 or ZA5.2 then actively crossover in the 200-400hz range to a pair of bass modules with 10" 12" or dual 8" woofers etc.Since the crossover design is by far the most important aspect and since designing a good passive crossover requires a fair amount of experience and has a steep learning curve your much better off to start with a proven design like Zaph's IMO.I have tried the above approach (300hz to a pair of SEAS woofers) with my pair of Zaph ZA5.2's with great results.

treitz3

You may have noticed this at the bottom, but in case it revolves with different things, here ya' go.....a blast from the past...

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11725

20hz

Vr3MxStyler2k3 wrote: »

The more I get into this the more I would like to build my own set of speakers..

And I really do not want to do a tried and true DIY design...

What are your thoughts? What kind of software would I need?

Online find Winisd or Winisd pro its a free program with ?600? drivers in there plus you can put in speaker peramiters and it will produce graphs showing you freq response SPL and how much power is needed , its just for subs , I just use a something like a polk moniter 5 w/it and it sounds awesome .

Systems

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11725

Damn!
In this thread the OP mentions that 3/4" MDF is $9/sheet!
My how times have changed since '03!:eek:

Face

20hz wrote: »

Online find Winisd or Winisd pro its a free program with ?600? drivers in there plus you can put in speaker peramiters and it will produce graphs showing you freq response SPL and how much power is needed , its just for subs , I just use a something like a polk moniter 5 w/it and it sounds awesome .

The programs I linked him to are much more advanced.

pepster wrote: »

Damn!
In this thread the OP mentions that 3/4" MDF is $9/sheet!
My how times have changed since '03!:eek:

Since he works at a CNC shop, that may be "their" price.

chadam44

Make sure you do some homework on whatever drivers you plan on using and do some reading as to the basic concepts of speaker/crossover building. It helped me greatly when I built my 3 ways from scratch (turned out nice but was a real pain to get the crossover just right in PCD.) Very rewarding though.

Face

I wouldn't strictly rely on PCD, it's good to take measurements after.

And while we're on this subject, here's what I've picked up for my next project:

http://www.raalribbon.com/products_flatfoil_70-20xr.htm
http://www.accuton.de/drivers/detail.php?driver=11&matID=4&appID=2

I only need two of each of these, then it's time to start building:

http://seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=238&Itemid=223
http://seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=283&Itemid=250

unc2701

Damn, Face that's an investment.

My problem is that crossovers are a ****, so I'm thinking my next project will be along the line's of SolidSqual's Sinisters:

http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/
http://www.minidsp.com/

Maybe these for the bass drivers:
http://aespeakers.com/

EndersShadow

unc2701 wrote: »

Damn, Face that's an investment.

My problem is that crossovers are a ****, so I'm thinking my next project will be along the line's of SolidSqual's Sinisters:

http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/
http://www.minidsp.com/

Maybe these for the bass drivers:
http://aespeakers.com/

Yeah, something like those are on my list as well

Face

unc2701 wrote: »

Maybe these for the bass drivers:
http://aespeakers.com/

FYI, I have some TD10M's for sale if you're interested. I was saving them for a rainy day project, but it'll probably be 6 months before I get to them.