Wiring resistors together

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Comments

  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited June 2011
    I have had some extremely negative results replacing resistors 10% in spec... like 9 to 8.2

    Resistors can make or break a loudspeaker in my experience (as far as values go)
    Agreed, as I mentioned in the Xo it can transform the SQ in a bad way (create a new unwanted signature:eek:)
    dorokusai wrote: »
    Dude, just trying to lighten the mood....have some fun, relax....enjoy my evening.
    Where's my beer?
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • Esreuter
    Esreuter Posts: 176
    edited June 2011
    one more thought about the poly switch.

    do you guys usually remove them?

    or just leave them be and replace the other parts of the XO?

    ESR:biggrin::biggrin:
    AVR: Sony 5600ES
    Center: CS2II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Front: Monitor 70 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coils, Mundorf resistors)
    Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Rear Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)

    More to come :biggrin:
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited June 2011
    I always remove them.

    TKo- Did Russ send that sign yet?
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited June 2011
    By definition, all chaps are assless. That's what makes them chaps, as opposed to leather pants with a frings.

    Any who, the rule is:

    Resistors in series are additive. Resistors in parrallel are parrallel are calculated with Rt = R1 *R2 over R1 + R2. Capacitors are the opposite. Capacitors in parallel are additive, and in parallel are figured with Ct = C1 * C2 over C1 + C2.

    As far as the value you're after, just go with Mills 1%. A 3 Ohm 1% tolerance 12 watt is 4.15 from sonic craft.

    And yeah, pull the polyswitches and replace them with a resistor. I found a .2 Ohm to work best with my sand amp, but now that I'm running tube amps, I'm thinking of going to a .1 Ohm, or possibly back to a jumper. The speakers seem a just a bit too warm now. But I won't be making a decision until the new tube set I'm running has at least 100 hours on them.
    Turntable: Empire 208
    Arm: Rega 300
    Cart: Shelter 501 III
    Phono Pre: dsachs consulting
    Digital: Marantz SACD 30n
    Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
    Amp: Conrad Johnson Premier 350
    Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
    Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified
  • TECHNOKID
    TECHNOKID Posts: 4,298
    edited June 2011
    dorokusai wrote: »
    I always remove them.

    TKo- Did Russ send that sign yet?
    I have not received it yet and am not bugging him as if he sent USPS, we just went through a Canada Post strike so that may have caused delays. I'll get it when I'll get it...
    DARE TO SOAR:
    “Your attitude, almost always determine your altitude in life” ;)
  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,164
    edited June 2011
    This thread is Awsome to me!!!
    Thank you all involved explaining this, especially Technokid I believe.
    When I looked at schematics, the drawings always showed those resistors that are I KNOW NOW piggybacked into a circuit. I couldn't wrap my brain around the fact that the current can't flow through one end, out the other and into the next the way the drawings showed.

    This info should be told to anybody interested in audio under any company heading from now on. Understanding schematic lay-outs if you want to upgrade.




    Simple..:tongue:
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
  • decal
    decal Posts: 3,205
    edited June 2011
    Vr3MxStyler2k3, aren't you the one who wants to charge folks to rebuild their XO's?
    If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.