Use of Balance Control for Tuning

pentoncm
pentoncm Posts: 379
edited June 2011 in Car Audio & Electronics
Is it a good idea to use the balance adjustment? I don't have independent L/R eq but it seems to sound better when i adjust the balance to the right by 3/15. At this point i can hear the music equally well out of both the left and right speakers, the kick drum is centered directly in front of me.
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Post edited by pentoncm on

Comments

  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited June 2011
    If it sounds better to you then it is okay.

    In an ideal setup, both channels have equal gain, and the sound from each speaker reaches your ears at the same time, and with the same level as leaving the speaker. However, few of us have perfect gear, and perfect room acoustics, so some tweaking is fine.
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  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited June 2011
    This may be an indication of a problem. At a minimum, I'd get a can of deoxit & clean the balance pot.
    TNRabbit
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  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited June 2011
    I have noticed the higher you go up the audio food chain, the less likely you are to find a balance control on the pre. Tone controls disappear in even mid-priced gear.

    So as above, they may be needed and it's fine to use, but it can be argued the less you have to use, the better.
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited June 2011
    It wont hurt anything but its not really helping much.

    Since youre close to one speaker but further from another, the lower frequencies (160-500 Hz) will be louder on the near side and upper frequencies (2000 and up) will be louder on the far side because youre on axis to that speaker and higher frequencies are more directional and the more youre on axis to them, the louder they get.

    When you crank the balance over youre lowering the overall volume of the left side but since the meat of the sound is in the 160-500 Hz range, it seems like its centering it up more because by lowering them on the left side, theyre more in line with the output from the right. But youll notice the higher end stuff like cymbals and horns will be much louder on the right side now because the upper midrange and high end stuff that was louder on the right is even more so now.

    Its a trade off thats not worth it IMO. Id rather have the higher overall output than half my frequencies centered up. But its your ears. :wink:
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  • decal
    decal Posts: 3,205
    edited June 2011
    First and foremost, do what YOU want, after all, YOU are the one listening. Notice the emphasis on YOU?
    If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money.
  • arun1963
    arun1963 Posts: 1,797
    edited June 2011
    BlueFox wrote: »
    If it sounds better to you then it is okay.

    In an ideal setup, both channels have equal gain, and the sound from each speaker reaches your ears at the same time, and with the same level as leaving the speaker. However, few of us have perfect gear, and perfect room acoustics, so some tweaking is fine.
    TNRabbit wrote: »
    This may be an indication of a problem. At a minimum, I'd get a can of deoxit & clean the balance pot.
    I have noticed the higher you go up the audio food chain, the less likely you are to find a balance control on the pre. Tone controls disappear in even mid-priced gear.

    So as above, they may be needed and it's fine to use, but it can be argued the less you have to use, the better.

    Guys, the OP is talking about listening to music in a car. Why do all your responses sound like they are rooted in 'home 2ch'? :smile:
  • BlueFox
    BlueFox Posts: 15,251
    edited June 2011
    arun1963 wrote: »
    Guys, the OP is talking about listening to music in a car. Why do all your responses sound like they are rooted in 'home 2ch'? :smile:


    Oh. I wish they would change the color of the car audio forum to make it easier to see the source of the question. :rolleyes:


    Anyway, my advice is applicable irrespective of the location. Just substitute car acoustics for room acoustics.
    Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
    Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
    Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes

    Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
    Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
    Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables

    Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
    Three 20 amp circuits.
  • inspiredsports
    inspiredsports Posts: 5,501
    edited June 2011
    arun1963 wrote: »
    Guys, the OP is talking about listening to music in a car. Why do all your responses sound like they are rooted in 'home 2ch'? :smile:

    Good point! OP . . . never mind. :biggrin:
    VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
    TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
    Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
    Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
    MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
    Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
    PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
    Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
    NAD SS rigs w/mods
    GIK panels
  • TNRabbit
    TNRabbit Posts: 2,168
    edited June 2011
    doh!
    TNRabbit
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    Sunfire TG-IV
    Ashly 1001 Active Crossover
    Rane PEQ-15 Parametric Equalizers x 2
    Sunfire Cinema Grand Signature Seven
    Carver AL-III Speakers
    Klipsch RT-12d Subwoofer