Help with Monitor 10 setup. They are 10A? Nice shape too.
spaceman
Posts: 138
Serial 54571 in excellent condition for the age. I believe these are 10As b/c there is a hole in the tweeter. Drivers are in really nice condiition. I mean they look awesome and still shine. Got them with the stands. Not overwhelmed by the stands particleboard. They are a bit undersized imo. I think there should be an alternative build.
Powered by a Boston Acoustic AVR7120 receiver atm. I also have a Sonance Sonamp 1250MKII.
Questions:
The one with the serial sticker has two fuses. The other has one. Is the one with two the left speaker or?
What is the normal setup distance? How far apart? I have them about 8 ft apart now. Still playing with that.
I also have a 10" sub doing LFE crossed at 40HZ just a bit inside the left speaker. Sounds fairly well blended. A bit of adjustment is going to be needed. Very close to seamless though.
Any mods in general? Thanks!
Will get pics when I finish cleaning.
Powered by a Boston Acoustic AVR7120 receiver atm. I also have a Sonance Sonamp 1250MKII.
Questions:
The one with the serial sticker has two fuses. The other has one. Is the one with two the left speaker or?
What is the normal setup distance? How far apart? I have them about 8 ft apart now. Still playing with that.
I also have a 10" sub doing LFE crossed at 40HZ just a bit inside the left speaker. Sounds fairly well blended. A bit of adjustment is going to be needed. Very close to seamless though.
Any mods in general? Thanks!
Will get pics when I finish cleaning.
Post edited by spaceman on
Comments
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They should BOTH have serial numbers. The double fuse thing is confusing; you'll need to post pics (of the back connector area). I had the same stands, and got rid of them in favor of something called "tip toes" (they look like small silver pyramids): enhances bass to the point where I don't even use a sub.
The general idea with (front) speaker spacing is to make an equal-lateral triangle between the left/right/listener (you). There's plenty of info on the web for multiple speaker setups (when you add a center channel, etc.).Yamaha RX-A2050 AVR (5.0.2); LG OLED77C2 4K TV(4) Polk Monitor 10B's w/SoniCaps, Mills, and RDO-194 tweets (R/L F/R)(2) Polk RC80i (Top Middle)Polk CS300 center channelAnalog: B&O TX2 Turntable, Nakamichi Cassette Deck 1Digital: Pioneer CLD-99 Elite LD, Panasonic DMP-UB900 UHD Blu-RayBedroom: Arylic Up2Stream AMPv3 driving Polk Monitor 4's w/peerless tweets -
There is only one with the sticker still attached. It is the one with 2 fuses. Yeah it is weird. I will probably have to contact polk directly. They play just fine though.
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some of the "A" versions of the monitor series had two fuses: one is tweeter and the other is a system fuse. On my monitor 7As, the tweeter fuse (top) is one-amp (fast-blow), the system fuse (bottom) is 1.5 amp (fast-blow). Not sure about the Monitor 10s; I would guess the system fuse might be a little bigger (2A?).
For best results (IME) these speakers like to be on Polkstands :-) (or at least, off the floor) and several feet from the back and side walls if at all possible. Again IME, they are best at the listening position if toed in just a bit.
Polkstand thread:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24335&highlight=polkstand
HTH, as they say... -
I have it at equilateral w/ 8ft but was curious if there was a specific distance.
The fuses are weird b/c one speaker has a place for one fuse period. Odd that they are like that. You would think they are different models maybe?
Interesting how you have a dual center. I could swing that with my amp but do you source it via a splitter to get the same signal to both? -
So I may have a 10A with two fuses and a 10B with one fuse?
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I am going to move them in a bit more b/c they are only 2 ft from the side walls. The back wall is 3ft so no issue there. I need to toe them in a bit. I had SDA-2s which you do not toe in.
So yeah. I guess I need to contact polk about the fuse thing. They sound balanced. If there is a sonic difference b/w the two, I have yet to hear it. -
I wouldn't sweat it (the number of fuses per speaker, that is).
There were clearly "A" versions of the Monitor Series speakers with one fuse and versions with two fuses. If the driver complement of the two speakers is identical (i.e. same tweeters!) the sonic performance should be close enough for Government work. -
Yeah they are the same tweeters for sure. Sound is good. I think the bass is spot on b/c it is there and cleanly represented. No boom or resonance beyond the norm for my room. I also have a pair of Rocket 550MKIIs. Going to be fun setting both up for some A/B. The polks are more fun w/ stronger bass but still need tweaking with placement and setup to get them "right". The sound stage does not seem to be as focused as it should be. However, they are not even toed in much less anything beyond the fast and cheap initial setup. Fun sounding already though.
What about this mortite? Any way to see if any mods have already been done?
Should I upgrade anything? I can do most simple mods easily enough. -
Hi and thanks again for the SRS2s!!:biggrin:
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Hi and thanks again for the SRS2s!!:biggrin:
Np. Wish I had a room big enough for those beasts. -
Ok where are the mods for these speakers?
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What are the actual freq response specs? I have it crossed at 40hz. That is about as low as they go right?
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The -3 dB lower limit is at 37 Hz. I might try the cutoff at 60Hz. If you want to find any of the product information just click on the Recent and Vintage Models under the Products tab at the top of the page.
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I already looked at the manu specs. Just wanted to hear the actual from users.
I will leave it at 40 b/c there is no sub. They are not going to be played anywhere near max spl.
Thanks! -
Without a sub I would leave them wide open no cutoff.
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I thought in the first post you said there was a sub doing LFE. For most receivers if you set a crossover for your front speakers, the sub will get LFE + what is below the crossover. If there is a sub, I would try setting at 60Hz. If no sub, I would do as JOE08867 suggested and set to no crossover for the 10s. If you like 40Hz better than either of those, then go with the 40Hz.
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Well, the issue appears to be that the receiver insists on setting a crossover point. It is a denon 589. I did the audyssey calibration and speaker setup correctly with no sub selected. It does sound fine as is so no big deal. If the Denon wants to be stubborn about the issue so be it.
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If you had a sub attached it may have sensed it was there anyway. Don't know never ran across this issue before.
If 40hz is as low as it will go you should be fine. -
Yes it does sound fine. Hell, my wife actually said she LIKED them last night. She was watching that horrible Battle for Los Angeles and was commenting on how big they sounded. Great speakers.
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What surround speakers can be used with these? Even just a center channel. Need the dialogue to be a bit punched up.
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There is a Csi center channel that matches not sure which one though.
And Monitor series 4's or 5's would match great for surrounds sound duty.
I believe the OWM5s work pretty well too. -
Thanks I will keep an eye out.
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There were 10s, 10As and 10bs early and late. 10As came around 1981 when they went to the black surrounds from the gray and from the Denmark Peerless to the US made Peerless. There is some crossover on the labels
The -2db down on early 10s, 10As and 10Bs is 30HZ Measured by Stereo Review in Jan 1980 as 23-20,000 +/- 5db