Itching for a new AVR...

mdaudioguy
Posts: 5,165
... even though I don't need one. I've recently looked at the new Yamaha RX-A800, Pioneer Elite VSX-31, and some Denons (can't remember model). Silly thing is, the only things I don't like about my H/K are that it gives off a lot of heat and the remote is large and clunky. Please help convince me why I do or don't need a new AVR.
Post edited by mdaudioguy on
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Try a preamp. The amps in your HK are the heat source, even when not powering speakers they put off some heat. My HK remote is the worst in my house too.HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
I'll trade you a HK 240 for the 254. It's in like-new condition.
Ok, I'll admit to going as far as bringing an open box Yamaha Aventage RX-A800 home yesterday, hooking it up, and deciding that it really wasn't anything special, even at a pretty decent discount price, so I returned it. It did, however, run quite a bit cooler. -
Dennis Gardner wrote: »Try a preamp. The amps in your HK are the heat source, even when not powering speakers they put off some heat. My HK remote is the worst in my house too.
While at BB yesterday, I placed my hand on each receiver they had, and almost all of them were very hot, although only one was actually pushing any speakers. Yamaha was cool, Pioneer Elite was warmer, Denon was hot, and Marantz, well, maybe even hotter than my H/K. Honestly, it was impossible to get a good read on the sound in the store. I tried comparing a couple of different models, and one sounded particularly weak. I started checking settings and realized someone had screwed with the tone controls. Who know what other settings had been changed...
Does a dedicated HT preamp really run cooler? -
I just bought the pioneer elite vsx-21txh. I am running it as a preamp. I havent noticed it running hot, but honestly never really worried about it. I finally got it all calibrated and dialed in today. It has really impressed me. I was never sold on the hdmi thing until hearing this unit. It is night and day from my previous rigs. Try the elite and I am pretty sure you will be impressed.Shawn
AVR: Marantz SR-5011
Center Channel: Polk LsiM706c
Front: Polk LsiM703
Rear: LSI fx
Subwoofer: SVS 20-39pci
Television: Samsung UN58NU7100FXZA
DVD Player: Sony PS4 -
Please help convince me why I do or don't need a new AVR.
You're kidding,right? Surely you can make up your own mind.If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money. -
I don't know what your budget is, or how hot these get, but I think these are both great deals right now:
http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=NAT775HD
http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=NAT747
I just ordered the T775HD, and think it is the better deal because it is upgradeable, but the T747 seems nice too, if you aren't looking for 3d capabilities right away. Other than ordering my new AVR from them, I have no affiliation with Audio Advisor. -
You're kidding,right? Surely you can make up your own mind.
Duh, of course I can... just looking for some stimulating discussion. -
I don't know what your budget is, or how hot these get, but I think these are both great deals right now:
http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=NAT775HD
http://www.audioadvisor.com/prodinfo.asp?number=NAT747
I just ordered the T775HD, and think it is the better deal because it is upgradeable, but the T747 seems nice too, if you aren't looking for 3d capabilities right away. Other than ordering my new AVR from them, I have no affiliation with Audio Advisor.
No interest in 3D, so the T747 would do. That price is in my ballpark. Thanks for bringing it to my attention.
Has anyone noticed that the more expensive models look nicer, too? In many cases, the less expensive models have everything I need, but they just look so freaking ugly... Clearly, this is done on purpose. -
mdaudioguy wrote: »Duh, of course I can... just looking for some stimulating discussion.
Oh, I see. In that case call 1-800-HOTAUDIOGIRLS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:eek:If you can't hear a difference, don't waste your money. -
I just went from a HK AVR254 to a Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH and have not been disappointed.2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones
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mdaudioguy wrote: »
Does a dedicated HT preamp really run cooler?
The transformer/power supply section of an AVR creates alot of heat in a conventional Class A/B amplifier section. A preamp section alone eliminates most of the heat producing elements contained in most AVR/amps.
The downside of dedicated preamps are that most of the cutting edge goodies are put into AVRs before the HT preamps get the same stuff. Preamps in mid level gear always seems to be a step behind the AVR for technology.HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
Just fot an FYI my SC-35 runs hot using for a pre- for home theater2-channel: Modwright KWI-200 Integrated, Dynaudio C1-II Signatures
Desktop rig: LSi7, Polk 110sub, Dayens Ampino amp, W4S DAC/pre, Sonos, JRiver
Gear on standby: Melody 101 tube pre, Unison Research Simply Italy Integrated
Gone to new homes: (Matt Polk's)Threshold Stasis SA12e monoblocks, Pass XA30.5 amp, Usher MD2 speakers, Dynaudio C4 platinum speakers, Modwright LS100 (voltz), Simaudio 780D DAC
erat interfectorem cesar et **** dictatorem dicere a -
dragon1952 wrote: »I just went from a HK AVR254 to a Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH and have not been disappointed.
Thanks. What speakers are you running, and what prompted you to change, if you don't mind me asking? -
txcoastal1 wrote: »Just fot an FYI my SC-35 runs hot using for a pre- for home theater
Are you sure your SC-35 runs hot or is it just a bit warm?
Compared to my old H/K 254 running 4 Polk RTi8 and a CSi A4, the SC-35 runs a little cooler with out using it as a pre amp.
In my first floor living room, there is a Pioneer Elite VSX-23. I should check it to see which one of the Elites run cooler.
As for the which unit works best, I would say the auto cal of the Pioneer sounded better on the first floor setup. As well as the video quality coming out the the AVR.
Pioneer Onkyo, in that order if I was shopping for new pre amp.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
dragon1952 wrote: »I just went from a HK AVR254 to a Pioneer Elite VSX-21TXH and have not been disappointed.
Did you find the bass management better when you switched to the Pio Elite.
In my case, the my PSW111 sub I had sounded like something totally new and better once the calibration was completed.
The H/K AVR254 didn't control the sub well. Also, I hated the overly large remote. The menus did look better than the Elite's on the H/K.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
txcoastal1 wrote: »Just fot an FYI my SC-35 runs hot using for a pre- for home theater
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mdaudioguy wrote: »Almost everything I've read suggests that the ICE amps run pretty cool.
Well, I don't know what to tell you. That was the first I ever heard such a thing like that when speaking on the Pio Elite SC's.
I found Onkyo and H/K to be hotter. My SC-35 does heavy lifting with RTi A9's and A7's using the ICE amps and 50Hz crossover for HT and full range for music and high volume. I never once felt the AVR getting over heated but it does get warm.
The SC-35 and 55 inch LCD together generate enough heat to feel a change in temp near the front of the room on a long movie when the room is already 72-74 degrees.
Have to run air conditioning to play system all day and keep the room nice in the summer. This is because of the room being smaller. My larger living room is not affected by heat from the HT system as much.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
The SC-35 and 55 inch LCD together generate enough heat to feel a change in temp near the front of the room on a long movie when the room is already 72-74 degrees.
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Interesting to hear the Marantz receivers you looked at ran hot. My SR8002 (flagship until fairly recently) runs VERY cool."I did not slap you. I high-fived your face."
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mdaudioguy wrote: »Thanks. What speakers are you running, and what prompted you to change, if you don't mind me asking?
I was having some issues with the HK and/or my BDP so when I saw a great deal on the Pioneer I grabbed it. The Pioneer sounds better on HT and music in my opinion. This is my HT system and I've just got in-wall Polk RCi85's so not the best speakers in the world but they're OK for their 95% HT usage.2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones -
Did you find the bass management better when you switched to the Pio Elite.
In my case, the my PSW111 sub I had sounded like something totally new and better once the calibration was completed.
The H/K AVR254 didn't control the sub well. Also, I hated the overly large remote. The menus did look better than the Elite's on the H/K.
Yeah...I'm not a huge bass guy but I think the Pioneer is better...and yes the HK is way easier to operate IMO. That's my only gripe about the Pioneer.2 channel - Willsenton R8 tube integrated, Holo Audio Spring 3 KTE DAC, audio optimized NUC7i5, Windows 10 Pro/JRiver MC29/Fidelizer Plus 8.7 w/LPS and external SSD drive, PS Audio PerfectWave P3 regenerator, KEF R3 speakers, Rythmik F12SE subwoofer, Audioquest Diamond USB cable, Gabriel Gold IC's, Morrow Audio SP5 speaker cables. Computer - Windows 10/JRiver, Schiit Magni 3+/Modi 3+, Fostex PMO.4n monitors, Sennheiser HD600 headphones -
mdaudioguy wrote: »That's one of the reasons I'm interested in switching out my H/K... between that and the PS3... This stuff is already in a room that doesn't cool very easily.
Yeah, I know. I hate it when I fill the room with people and the room temp is about 68-70 degree, the temp will increase about 4-6 degrees after 1 hour with about 3-5 people. This is while running the 55 LCD, SC-35 and Playstation 3.
We just got a PS3 slim in the house on the first level. I think the PS3 slim makes a little more heat than the fat PS3 60g I have up stairs.
I have to chill the room for movie nights just to keep the temp just right near the end of the movie.
I'm sure you will find the automatic calibration and bass management better in the Pio, Onkyo, or Marantz receivers.
I just don't think that Harmon Kardon receivers or as good as they use to be. The started to like H/K in 1999. I bought a Dolby Pro Logic receiver from them and loved it. The H/K AVR254 just didn't get it for me.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
Yeah, I know. I hate it when I fill the room with people and the room temp is about 68-70 degree, the temp will increase about 4-6 degrees after 1 hour with about 3-5 people.
When sleeping we produce about 80Watts. Awake and sitting is about 116Watts. This adds to the equipment heat. Better HVAC may really be the answer. -
Outfitter03 wrote: »When sleeping we produce about 80Watts. Awake and sitting is about 116Watts. This adds to the equipment heat. Better HVAC may really be the answer.
Sensor for the upstairs A/C unit is in the hall. Therefore, the room temp change is not noticed.
I did put in a window A/C unit to help. I have a big 100 year old brick house with 2 A/C unit that were retro fitted in.
I just have to make do or more thermostat, which is more than a little work.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
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TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
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NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
Sensor for the upstairs A/C unit is in the hall. Therefore, the room temp change is not noticed.
I did put in a window A/C unit to help. I have a big 100 year old brick house with 2 A/C unit that were retro fitted in.
I just have to make do or more thermostat, which is more than a little work.
Sorry for the post, iPhone4 takes over on auto fill and pick words you don't mean to type.Fronts: Polk RTi A9
Center: Polk CSI A6
Rears: Polk RTi A7
Receiver: Pioneer Elite SC-35 (140 watts x 7)
Amplifier: Adcom GFA-555 Mk.II (200 watt @ 8 ohms)
Sub: Polk DSW PRO 500 (10 inch, 200 Watt)
TV: Samsung 59 inch 3D Plasma 600 Hz PN59D7000
Sources: Samsung BD-D6700 3D Blu-ray Player, DirecTV, PS3, iPhone 4 and IPod Classic with Apple Lossless Tracks -
newegg has weekend deals on onkyos
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Most heat issues on AVRs are not caused by the amplifiers but by the video processing boards. Video processors get extremely hot and they are not attached to any heat sinks or fans. Feel the top of the receiver and look where the heat is coming from... it is usually directly over the HDMI board.
Onkyos are having really bad problems with their AVRs... I have two top line models and both are having issues. While the design and use of the Onkyo is excellent, their continual problems with the HDMI board would lead me elsewhere... -
That section of Onkyo AVRs has been getting 'hot' since Onkyo first started using HDMI boards?
I don't understand why they don't turn the board vertical instead of horizontal (like many earlier Denons have) and slap a small heat sink in there--problem solved...not that expensive to do? Seems like an unbelievably 'easy' fix!
cnhCurrently orbiting Bowie's Blackstar.!
Polk Lsi-7s, Def Tech 8" sub, HK 3490, HK HD 990 (CDP/DAC), AKG Q701s
[sig. changed on a monthly basis as I rotate in and out of my stash] -
I'm convince that it's the DSP in these things that really generates the heat. How else can you explain so much heat emanating from an AVR when it's only being used as a pre-amp? Btw, I ended up with a Yamaha RX-A1000, and it really doesn't run as cool as I initially thought. Not really hot, mind you, just not really cool, either. And most of the time, it's not powering any speakers at all...