Work Truck Speaker Upgrade

dorokusai

I can't be without good sound so I picked up a couple pairs of dB571 for my lame, and very slow Ford Escape work truck. I'll post the install pics later but don't expect them to be as awesome as some of the work you guys have posted and own. I'm not going to Dynamat the doors and figured a simple upgrade would help with the stock stereo. It's boring I know but for those interested in cheap upgrades, with a "do they really make a difference" opinion, stay tuned.

I had a hard time deciding between the DXi and dB lineup as I didn't see any huge differences in the series. I grabbed the dB since it was one I was already familiar with and both are Marine certified. If anything, these will get water on them since I do disaster relief and work in every climate.

Has anyone heard both series? Just wondering if there are any major sonic differences between the two.

I just started the install today.

-Mark

RuSsMaN

Sweet. The only thing I would worry about is the factory (I assume) head unit not doing them justice.

arun1963

Not sure if there is a sonic difference between the two. But in a car door, w/o deadening, running of hu power, you're probably not going to hear a difference. Yes, either would sound better than stock.

I'm with Russ, I'd get a nice cheap 2 ch amp and deaden the doors. That would be a huge gain over stock.

RuSsMaN

I didnt suggest he buy anything! Work truck!

polkfarmboy

My SUV has got some really crappy speakers in and I may put some of these in it to see what kinda improvement they make . At $99 you cant go wrong I suppose

MacLeod

I lean toward the DB personally. Been around a while and are hard to beat for the money.

I also highly recommend some Dynamat Mark. You don't have to use a bunch but a $19.99 Speaker Kit will make a big difference especially if your Escape has plastic door panels like my crappy Edge. A Dynamat Speaker Kit is simply 2 pieces of 10"x10" sheets of Dynamat Extreme that you place around the speaker mounting location.

Jstas

Depending on what head unit is in that Escape (I call the GF's Escape the "ess ca pay"), the stock stuff is built by Pioneer and a bit more stout than most. The GF's Escape tends to **** at high volumes which is paper cones distorting. The DB's will take more power than the stock speakers.

I wouldn't worry about sound deadening. They are a bit on the noisy side to begin with but the doors are solidly built. I doubt you're going to have vibration problems. As far as auxiliary power in the way of an amp, you can do that but if it's a work truck, you don't want to have to mess with more than you have to. If you're going to spend money anywhere else besides speakers, get a head unit. Pioneer and Kenwood have very highly rated head units with navigation as well. Pioneer does their own maps in partnership with NAVTEQ but Kenwood uses Garmin systems. Both are very effective at what they do. They should have enough juice to power the sensitive DB's as well.

Otherwise, in a work truck with junk bouncing around and stuff, I wouldn't bother with anything more. It'll just get damaged or cause a problem/failure that you'll end up having to fix at the worst time.


As far as the Escape goes, I'm not a fan of the 4-cylinder. Too much mass to move around. But the 200 HP V6 is pretty stout and that beast scoots pretty good with it while still getting decent mileage. The GF's is 4WD and I honestly think it's much more capable than most people give it credit for. Granted, it's no super swamper, mud-bogger or rock crawler but it did decent with trail work in the state parks in Vermont, handles all kinds of foul weather without a problem and is light enough that it does good on the beach sand on LBI as well. Has good highway manners, feels fairly buttoned down and has comfortable seats. It's certainly a much better option than it's competition in it's category.

codyc1ark

RuSsMaN wrote: »

I didnt suggest he buy anything! Work truck!

It was the WAY you said it Russ... We know what you're up too. :biggrin:

dorokusai

MacLeod wrote: »

I lean toward the DB personally. Been around a while and are hard to beat for the money.

I also highly recommend some Dynamat Mark. You don't have to use a bunch but a $19.99 Speaker Kit will make a big difference especially if your Escape has plastic door panels like my crappy Edge. A Dynamat Speaker Kit is simply 2 pieces of 10"x10" sheets of Dynamat Extreme that you place around the speaker mounting location.

Ok, I have some Dynamat handy so I'll take the extra time to do it right per your suggestion Macleod. That sounds like the right thing to do.

Jstas

dorokusai wrote: »

Ok, I have some Dynamat handy so I'll take the extra time to do it right per your suggestion Macleod. That sounds like the right thing to do.

Just watch your clearances 'cause the Dynamat can push the speaker mounting height up enough to impact the integrated speaker grille in the door. Especially if the DB's tweeters protrude.

MacLeod

dorokusai wrote: »

Ok, I have some Dynamat handy so I'll take the extra time to do it right per your suggestion Macleod. That sounds like the right thing to do.

I think its worth the effort. It won't make or break it but a little Dynamat applied to where the speaker mounts gets rid of a ton of resonance and vibration that can translate over into the speakers. 5x7's while not known as midbass superstars, are capable of some very decent 63-80 Hz output and this will be the most "impact heavy" frequencies so any little bit of reinforcement you can do is gonna be a plus.

The average Joe Sixpack would never know or care but after all the years of critical listening you've done, your ears will be more particular, even in a work truck.

Jstas wrote: »

Just watch your clearances 'cause the Dynamat can push the speaker mounting height up enough to impact the integrated speaker grille in the door. Especially if the DB's tweeters protrude.

I wouldn't think that would be a problem. Dynamat is not even 1/4" thick so it should be ok.

20hz

RuSsMaN wrote: »

I didnt suggest he buy anything! Work truck!

you are right unless ..
its your truck and the daily monoteny is killing you , nothing like good music to help your day move faster .

EndersShadow

@Doro

I have heard both and like my db's better. I have been running 2 sets of db6501's in my Jetta for ~4 years now. I never heard them stock, but they sounded quite good with my MTX ThunderElite 404 (65x4) but sound even better w/ just the front 2 connected to a Sundown 125 x 2 amp

I had one crossover go out, but other than that they have been GREAT speakers. Like you, I liked that they were Marine certified so if there was a spill, or the windows leaked they wouldnt spaz out on me.

I also might suggest the Dynamat Dynaxorb for behind the speakers. I have debated pulling all 4 my 6.5's out and putting these behind them, but havent done it yet.

dorokusai

I'm sold Mac...thanks for the push. Maybe the pics will be interesting after all

Jstas

MacLeod wrote: »

I wouldn't think that would be a problem. Dynamat is not even 1/4" thick so it should be ok.

When I mounted speakers in my Thunderbird, I dynamatted the mounting holes. When I went to reinstall the door panels, the speakers themselves cleared with about 1/8th of inch but the tweeters were pushing on the grilles because they stuck out about 3/8ths of an inch. All the Dynamat in the world didn't stop the vibrations because the plastic tweeter housing the tweeter grille was transferring all the vibrations right to the door panel.

I pulled the speaker out and with a utility knife trimmed the Dynamat around the outside of the hole and removed what was under the speaker. Then I popped off the plastic grilles that weren't the necessary because they were behind the panels. Removing the Dynamat got me 1/8th of an inch, removing the tweeter housing bezel got me another 3/16ths of an inch and I got my clearance back.

Granted, they were Pioneers, not Polks but the experience was trying to say the least. I always check clearances now. Ford has a knack for making tolerances in doors tight. I've never taken apart an Escape door but since every other Ford I've messed with has been that way, the advice is applicable. Even if you want to dismiss it as folly.

It's not just top clearance either. Check rear clearance as well because the DB's have considerably larger and deeper reaching magnets that may interfere with window mechanisms or door lock/latching systems.

I usually check Crutchfield's fitment guide to know how much clearance I have before I buy anything. It's pretty accurate, especially on the more popular vehicles like the Escape/Tribute/Mariner triplets. they also carry a wide enough array of product that even if you are getting a product that Crutchfield doesn't carry, you can find similar dimensions to know if your new stuff is going to fit or not.

exalted512

hmmm...I've never had issues with dynamatting around a speaker. The stuff is really thin as it is and the butyl will typically squeeze out once screwed down further reducing the thickness.

Now if you have several layers, I could definitely see that happening. I literally have to stand on the pockets of my door panels and slightly jump to get them to slide in place, but I'm fairly certain my doors could stop a full metal jacket .45....haha.


There's a layer of foam on there now too.
-Cody

dorokusai

What wire is positive? The speaker it came off is also unmarked in any way shape or form.

exalted512

white - white/brown = + / - driver door
white/purple - white/orange = + / - passenger door
-Cody

exalted512

Or you can take a battery and connect it to the leads on the speaker. You know which one is + / - on the battery. If the speaker goes out, you have the + / - correct, if it goes in, you have it reversed. Then just look at the corresponding wires coming out of the factory plug and voila.
-Cody

dorokusai

Cody - I went with what you suggested and it's correct in regards to polarity. I've only done one door so far but it sounds more crisp, but not as full in regards to the bottom end. I Dynamatted the doors well but it's probably showing the shortcomings of my stock head unit at this point.

The high end is clearly better, so I'm just underwhelmed(word?) by the low end at this point. Sound about in line with what you expected?

MacLeod

You will have less bass at the end of all this. The stock speakers are made to make up for a lack of a sub so they do have full midbass which make them sound more meaty. They do this at the expense of everything above 100Hz.....which is a lot. Theyre also meant to sound "kick ****" to the majority of car buyers which very few are actually audiphiles and so they think more bass means more sound quality.

Aftermarket speakers will have superior midrange and highs but wont have the low end impact youre used to. It is a trade off but once you tinker with the settings some, Ill bet youll like it better once they break in a little.

dorokusai

MacLeod wrote: »

You will have less bass at the end of all this. The stock speakers are made to make up for a lack of a sub so they do have full midbass which make them sound more meaty. They do this at the expense of everything above 100Hz.....which is a lot. Theyre also meant to sound "kick ****" to the majority of car buyers which very few are actually audiphiles and so they think more bass means more sound quality.

Aftermarket speakers will have superior midrange and highs but wont have the low end impact youre used to. It is a trade off but once you tinker with the settings some, Ill bet youll like it better once they break in a little.

Macleod - Thats exactly what I'm hearing....you're spot on. Ok, that's cool as I'd rather have a better high end since I listen to talk radio quite a bit.

What do you think is the easiest way to add a subwoofer Mac?

dorokusai

Dskip -I'm happy with everything so far and it's been a worthy upgrade for a modest cost. Everything can easily be removed at this point and I'll be out $20 in Dynamat....big deal.

I've found this Mac...

http://www.crutchfield.com/app/cart/default.aspx

Do you think it's ok for the purpose? It comes with a factory harness splice for free and again, it can be removed and brought to the next vehicle. I know it's not at your level but work truck....? Eh...? Sound ok?

MacLeod

Yeah cant see your cart. If youre talking about a powered subwoofer then this MTX 120 watt 8" would be a good one. MTX is a very solid and reliable brand thats been around a long time and still owned by the same company. This one goes for $180 and would be pretty simple to hook up. 12V constant, ground and remote lead. If you dont have an aftermarket head unit, this will use speaker level inputs. I think upper end Escapes have a factory sub in the back and even if you dont the stock wires might still be there so you could have an easier install.

If youre looking at a dedicated amp and sub, then the best and cheapest combo I can find is on Polk Direct. This DB1212 loaded enclosure for $125 powered by this Polk mono 300 watt amp for $125 shipped. This setup would take up more room and be a little more time consuming to install but will have a ton more output and have enough left over for some spirited listening should the mood hit you.

Honestly dude you might want to give it a week or maybe two. Let those 5x7's break in a little bit and tinker with the audio settings. They may settle in and give you enough grunt down low that youll be happy with it and not have to spend anything extra if youre not wanting to.

dorokusai

Sorry guys, here it is again....basic. not exciting but trying to keep it modestly priced and easy to install.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_204BTA850F/Bazooka-BTA850FH.html

MacLeod

Yeah that would work. If you could swing the extra $30, the MTX will be worth it. Itll be a better sub with definitely a better amplifier. The installation might be a little more complicated though but I cant imagine it would be that much more of a mess. Either will work fine for what youre trying to accomplish but I think youd like the MTX more due to the extra muscle itll have and better overall quality.

JimAckley

I definitely agree the MTX is better than the Bazooka. The Polk setup will be miles ahead of either of them though. Installation really isn't any more cumbersome than either of the tubes. You've still gotta run the same wires. The only difference is that you'll have to mount the amp somewhere (keep it simple and mount it to the enclosure), and run speaker wire from the speaker to the enclosure. Plus, for $250, you simply can't beat it. You won't regret buying the Polk, go for it.

Jstas

dorokusai wrote: »

Sorry guys, here it is again....basic. not exciting but trying to keep it modestly priced and easy to install.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_204BTA850F/Bazooka-BTA850FH.html

That's exactly what I was going to suggest. It should come with brackets with feet so it doesn't roll around. If not, spend he extra coin on them and get them. They work better than trying to strap/bungee cord them them in. Especially if you are going to have tools and other stuff in the vehicle as well.

arun1963

MacLeod wrote: »

Honestly dude you might want to give it a week or maybe two. Let those 5x7's break in a little bit and tinker with the audio settings. They may settle in and give you enough grunt down low that youll be happy with it and not have to spend anything extra if youre not wanting to.

+++ If you really don't want to spend time and $$ to set things up, then check if the passive has a tweeter attenuation switch. Else see if you can turn down the mids and highs from your hu. That will give you better balance for now. A couple of weeks down the road, you may find yourself turning up the mids/highs a touch. That said the tweets on the db series are a little bright. But nothing that can't be tamed.

If you're willing to spend some time and $$, I would go with an 8" sub in a small .3-.4 sealed box and a 4 ch amp over a powered bass tube. You'd find the lower end much cleaner with a sub. Plus you'd get more out of your speakers.