SDA-2 - worth it to repair? parts?
Gavin.Wright
Posts: 125
Hello,
I'm new to the forum and just picked up a pair of Polk SDA-2 for $45! Unfortunately the speakers need two replacement woofers (MW6501's) and four replacement HF drivers (SL-1000's?). They currently have 3 SL-2000 drivers in them (only one working) and 1 off-brand HF driver.
Do you think it is worth rebuilding these speakers? From what i've read these speakers originally had SL-1000 drivers, are these still available new/used? What about the interconnect cable? Could this be made out of a length of speaker wire?
I tested these speakers in standard stereo mode (without an interconnect cable) by moving the functioning woofers and tweeters to the main positions of each speaker and was just blown away by the sound - I can't imagine what they could sound like once they are fully functional! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I'm new to the forum and just picked up a pair of Polk SDA-2 for $45! Unfortunately the speakers need two replacement woofers (MW6501's) and four replacement HF drivers (SL-1000's?). They currently have 3 SL-2000 drivers in them (only one working) and 1 off-brand HF driver.
Do you think it is worth rebuilding these speakers? From what i've read these speakers originally had SL-1000 drivers, are these still available new/used? What about the interconnect cable? Could this be made out of a length of speaker wire?
I tested these speakers in standard stereo mode (without an interconnect cable) by moving the functioning woofers and tweeters to the main positions of each speaker and was just blown away by the sound - I can't imagine what they could sound like once they are fully functional! Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Post edited by Gavin.Wright on
Comments
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you could replace the needed components for under 300 bones. I'd say it's well worth the investment. call polk, tell them your a forum member, and then tell them you need (4) rdo-194 tweeters (49/ea for members). Then, go on ebay and find yourself a few MW-6501's Shouldnt be too hard and usually under $40/ea. Or beg some members here to release their death grip on a couple spares :biggrin:
You could also save $100 and just get 2 rdo's and then disconnect the outermost tweeter as r&d found their effect to be negligable and later phased them out in faver of a single tweeter design. OR, even cheeper, just get 2 6501's and use the 2 good sl-2000 tweeters - one in each cab - in the innermost position on each speaker and the disconnect the the outermost ones (but leave them installed to keep the seal obviously). I would actually recommend you do that first just so you can hear it and if you feel you want the other tweeters you can order them and you havent lost anything.
Then, come back here and tell us how awesome they are :biggrin:design is where science and art break even. -
Don't jump to too many conclusions just yet about whether the drivers are dead or not. (unless you've already swapped them around) The I/C cable is available from Polk or pittdog has one for sale in the flea market section. Somebody (not me) can walk you through the troubleshooting steps. Welcome to the SDA owners club !:biggrin:
cable link:
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120052 -
oh wait, you only have one sl-2000 and one off-brand. ok go buy 2 rdo's design is where science and art break even.
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FYI.....the passive radiators are worth approx. what you paid for the pair of speakers so......
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Wow! Such quick responses.
I have removed all the drivers and tested them (i'm actually an audio technician at a music shop by day - and only play "audiophile" in the evenings).
I currently have 4 functioning MW6501's positioned in the inner locations but only 1 functioning SL-2000. The other two SL-2000's are dead in the water - the voicecoils are not burnt but the tiny little wires have broken off and are deemed unrepairable (by me). The 4th HF driver is some off-brand fostex with a tiny little magnet.
So I guess I need at least two HF drivers to get started?
If I like the sound at that point would you recommend leaving two "dummy" SL-2000's in the outtermost position and finding MW6501's to achieve the SDA effect?
Thanks for all the help so far! -
Oh one other thing to mention - The 2 MW6501's that are dead have the common "frozen" problem where the magnet has shifted and is bound-up against the voicecoil. I removed the magnet from the basket assembly but see no way to repair. On the bright side I can install the basket w/o the magnet as a pseudo "passive radiator" to keep the cabinet sealed!
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If you're the "handy" type, try this. Nothing ventured......
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79649&highlight=diy+magnet -
Gavin - The two outside tweeters are not required, and the speakers will actually sound better (in my opinion) without them. Later revisions of the SDA-2's only had a single tweeter anyway. Just disconnect the outside ones and worry about the inside ones.
If the speakers originally had SL1000's all around, there could be an issue with putting RDO-194's in their place. I remember that the size of the mounting plate was not the same for all tweeters, but I don't remember the specifics. Take a look around the forums, as the information on tweeter substitution is out there.
All in all, I'd say it's worth fixing them. Two tweeters, two MW's and you're good to go. I paid $175 for my SDA 2's, and they had two frozen MW's as well...Ludicrous gibs! -
nadams - thanks for the info. I'm thinking that my speakers must have had SL2000's in them stock as that is what it has in it currently and they fit the opening.
I messaged another memeber earlier today who was selling a pair of SL2000's for $48 - hopefully I can pick those up. I'm thinking about installing a pair of 8ohm 60watt yamaha speakers in the outside MW location to save some cash as I have a pair of these laying around. Any thoughts on the importance of matching the outside MW with the rest of the MW's? -
The match is hugely important. If anything you may be able to switch the lower driver on the inside for the Yamaha. I wouldn't suggest this but that driver gets a lower frequency than the dimensional one you want to replace so it may not harm the sound quite as much. That said the original drivers are 4ohm so if the Yammy isn't you will be distorting the sound even more than the lack of timbre match alone.
For the small investment you would be way better off replacing the driver with the correct 6501. With the correct drivers the sound will be crisper and the speakers will perform as they should.
I have the same set of speakers at home and will agree with nadams that the dimensional tweeter is better left unhooked. It adds a weird artifact to the sound. Without it they sound much better.
Also, so you know the original SDA2 that you have is a 4ohm nominal speaker and can drop well into the 1-2ohm range easy. Make sure you are driving it with equipment that can handle the load.. -
I didn't realize the match would be that important. Are you sure the MW6501's are 4ohm? I measured one that I removed and it read very near 8 ohms...
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I am sorry must have been writing that before the coffee kicked in. The MW6501 is 8ohm not 4ohm as I stated earlier. The speakers themselves are 4ohm though.
Worst case you try the Yammy until you can get your hands on the originals. I would still place it in the lower driver position myself.
Oh, Welcome to the club. -
An attempt to reset and glue the "frozen" woofers is underway - I will keep you posted on progress/results!
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good luck, gaivn! let us know how it works design is where science and art break even.
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I also just picked up a pair of SDA 2. They sound fantastic but seem to be having a problem with the tweeters (silver faced SL1000). The left tweeter(s) occasionally has a buzzing/garbled distortion. Could this be the sound artifact mentioned above or is it likely a bad tweeter? Might disconnecting the two outside tweeters fix this problem? Should I try this before replacing the tweeters? What is the ohm value for the tweeters? I assumed it would be 4 ohms, since the speakers are rated as 4 ohms, but reading the above about 8 ohm woofers has confused me. If I was to change out the tweeters, do I need 4 ohm or 8 ohm? Thanks in advance for the help.
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one woofer finished - i wonder how long 5-minute epoxy really needs to cure before i remove the clamps... anticipation
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2nd one is finished - now as long as these hold all I need to finish the job is an SL2000! (i'm going to bypass the outermost tweeters based on feedback from you guys)
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You be kickin **** an takin names on those things !:biggrin:
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It pained me to wait until today to install and test the repaired MW's but they are now reinstalled and sound perfect! Thanks GDB for pointing me in the right direction with your link. I believe my total cost of parts to make the "jig" that I used to repair the woofers was $7 which brings the total cost up to $52 for the speakers - still looking for an SL2000 tweet though...
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bjarmson -
sounds like one of your tweeters is failing. As suggested above I would disconnect the dimensional tweets and call it good. (be sure to tape the connections inside to avoid a short) I think the SL1000's are 8ohm but as mine are now reinstalled I can't verify that. Congrats on the new speakers. -
Well damn Gav........now you can fit some "dutchmen" into the tweeter baffle holes and then center your single tweet, as it should be.:eek:
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BTW......if the 2000 is the correct tweeter.....throw/give the one good one away and buy 2 RDO-194 from Polk for approx. $48.00ea. shipped (club member price)
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you think the RDO-194 would be a better investment rather than finding an old SL2000?
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also - since the SL2000's fit fine in the tweeter baffle cutout I assume the RDO's would fit as well?
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Direct and superior replacement tweeter. ( not quite so "dentist drill" sounding)
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Thanks for the help, Gavin. Keep us informed if you replace your tweeters with new ones. I'd be interested in hearing if the sound quality is noticeably improved. Might want to upgrade my old SL1000s for newer tweeters.
Pardon my ignorance if this is a stupid question, but how does a speaker with 8 ohm tweeters and woofers become a 4 ohm rated speaker? -
Disconnected the two outside tweeters, problem seems to be fixed.
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The outside speakers add to much brittle shrill sound to the mix. You will be happier without them.
The RDO-194 is a vast improvement and replacement for the sl2000 or sl1000. Well worth the investment...
