Have any of you tweakers redone a car audio xover?

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JimAckley
JimAckley Posts: 1,138
edited May 2011 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I'm about to pick up some components for my truck. I was thinking about the crossover, where I would mount it etc., and then I got curious and wondered if anyone had upgraded the xovers in a car system. I realize the car's not much of a "critical listening" environment (especially any vehicle I've ever owned), but was just curious...
- Computer Rig -
YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

- Main Rig -
Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

- Currently In Progress -
Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
Post edited by JimAckley on
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  • EndersShadow
    EndersShadow Posts: 17,534
    edited May 2011
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    JimAckley wrote: »
    I'm about to pick up some components for my truck. I was thinking about the crossover, where I would mount it etc., and then I got curious and wondered if anyone had upgraded the xovers in a car system. I realize the car's not much of a "critical listening" environment (especially any vehicle I've ever owned), but was just curious...

    Not even thought about it. I think most folks that would do that to their crossover end up going active with their amp, which allows them much more flexibility in how things sound based on their amp.

    My db6501's improved much with a better amp, so I would assume thats gonna be the main point in most folks system, get a really good amp and then if needed go "active"
    "....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
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  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,340
    edited May 2011
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    On a factory component system that used a single electrolytic cap on the tweeter, I tried swapping the tweeter with a Dayton metalized polypropylene. It didn't do any miracles.

    The benefit may be better on a real crossover vs a cap that is mainly intended to protect the tweeter and also with better speakers.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
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