Speaker Spikes
factorz
Posts: 353
I am in the middle of a complete overhaul of my RTA-12C and was wondering about spikes. Has anyone added spikes to their speakers and what benefit did it provide?
Thanks for looking!
Thanks for looking!
Post edited by factorz on
Comments
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yes, better and tighter bass. search the site you will find plenty on the subject. check out myesound.com point and pads.Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs -
I was skeptical at first. Then i added the spikes to mine and there was a difference. I feel that it tightened everything up a little.Front - RTiA5's
Rear - RTiA3's
Center - CSiA4
Sub - PSW110 -
Spikes make the speaker more stable particularly when placed on carpet. I'm not convinced they make a difference when the speakers would be placed on a hard surface like concrete, tile, a wood floor, etc.
Also makes the speakers WAY harder to move, since you have to pick them up before re-positioning. This can be good; the kids can't slide the speakers out-of-the-way to make room for their Hot Wheels track. This can be trouble, if you have heavy speakers, a bad back, and you need to move them for some legitimate reason. -
the cheap brass Parts Express ones - 4 for around $5.
Acutally, I have the inserts installed, but haven't put the spikes in yet as I have to make a small mod to the wall unit they're positioned in.
A word of warning :eek: : I drilled the particle board for the inserts and some of them went in with a very tight fit. Others were loose and sloppy, so I had to glue them.
Be prepared to use a little epoxy or something similar for a secure mount."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
drumminman wrote: »A word of warning :eek: : I drilled the particle board for the inserts and some of them went in with a very tight fit. Others were loose and sloppy, so I had to glue them.
Be prepared to use a little epoxy or something similar for a secure mount.
Did you use T-Nuts?Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance. -
Spikes IMO are a must with any speaker. The benefits range from experiencing a clearer and less muddled mid range to sharper and more defined bass. They can take away some of the boom at the bottom and make it to where the attack seems quicker. Depending on the speaker, they can improve the texture and separation of instruments/vocals. An added bonus is that you can tilt your speakers to get them 2 degrees back and if you have uneven floors, they allow you to level them out which can make or break the timing alignment of the imaging which is extremely important for the sound stage and locational cues [if everything else is set up properly].~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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How sharp do the points have to be for the spikes to be effective?Spikes IMO are a must with any speaker. The benefits range from experiencing a clearer and less muddled mid range to sharper and more defined bass. They can take away some of the boom at the bottom and make it to where the attack seems quicker. Depending on the speaker, they can improve the texture and separation of instruments/vocals. An added bonus is that you can tilt your speakers to get them 2 degrees back and if you have uneven floors, they allow you to level them out which can make or break the timing alignment of the imaging which is extremely important for the sound stage and locational cues [if everything else is set up properly].- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
- Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
- Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
- Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
- Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
- SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
- SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
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SPIKES!!!! as stated above are a must. You won't regret it!!!!
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I have to admit, I was NOT expecting to ever be asked that question. Quite honestly, I do not know. I have had many a speaker and most of them have spikes. Some dull, some sharp enough to go through your chest and into your heart. I have to be honest, I've never really paid attention to that aspect of it.How sharp do the points have to be for the spikes to be effective?
I think the main point of them are that you are isolating/decoupling the speakers from the ground. For instance, let's take my speakers for example. I have an estimated foot and a half of footprint that resides on the floor. That's a foot and a half of coupling or the transferring of mechanical energy. When four spikes are installed, the footprint becomes the size of the tips of 4 ball pens. There is not a lot of mechanical energy to be transferred with a footprint that small.
To go from dull to sharp or vice-versa would most likely be such a small change that I would argue that it most likely would not be discernible at all. Even in an anechoic room.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
Did you use T-Nuts?
I used the self tapping inserts that came with them, pre drilled the holes and then threaded them.
I used Gorilla Glue to secure one, but it's way too messy (expands too much!) On the rest that needed it I used JB Weld."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
I used the self tapping inserts that came with them, pre drilled the holes and then threaded them.
There's your problem. Those inserts are not meant to be used in particleboard. T-nuts are.
JB Weld isn't meant to glue something to particleboard. 5 minute epoxy is.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
you must be right. I used the hurricane nuts (similar to T-nuts) to remount the mw's and their rock solid."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
