momo 6500

antman

i want to re-do my old set up
pioneer 6050, front polk momo 6500 power by punch 300.2, sub punch p2 10 inch power by punch 200.2, i read the momo will sound better if i bi-amp it.

will this work ? momo biamp with punch 200.2 for the tweeters and punch 500.2 for the mid bass and punch 300.2 for the sub?

where is the best place to install the tweeter? currently installedl in the side mirror location of my suzuki grand vitara, i think the tweeter is tightly squezed in this stock location, blocking its full potential

i also have an old school PPI 4200AM

thanks

Vital

As for location of the tweeter - u're just gonna have to try different locations out yourself since noone will be able to tell you "THE" spot.

And yes, MMC6500 are waaay better when bi-amped. You can finally get that ridiculous bass they are capable of out of momo's woofers without tweeters cutting into your ears.
I'm not sure what the rating are on your punch amps but i'm sure it'll be enought.

btw - without going thru spec sheets - logically assuming i'd say 500.2 will be a better fit for SUBWOOFER instead of 300.2. You can use 300.2 for momo's mids.

MacLeod

Generally the best spot will be in the A pillar about an inch or two above the highest point on the dash. Every car is different if course but most if the time, this will work.

antman

thanks,

the punch 200.2 is rated at 50x2, 300.2 is 75x2 and 500.2 is 125x2 rms.


can i use the tweeter flush or surface mounting hardware to mount the tweeter in the a pillar?

Vital

btw - the best amp to run with bi-amped MMC6500's is Polk C400.4 if you can find it.
It eliminates the need for 2 amps (well, most 4 channels will) so u'll save space and it also has a built in x-over made for MOMO's specs which eliminates the need for passive x-overs which in it's turn also saves you space and leaves you will less "links in the chain". Problem with C400.4 is that it's discontinued and is actually kinda hard to find but if you can - def go for it.

antman

hi macleod,
what is your current set up?
is there much different between the Sr and new mm subs? sq ?

thanks

MacLeod

Current setup is Scanspeak Illuminator tweeters and Morel dome mids in the A pillars, Polk SR 6's in the doors, Polk MM10 sub, Polk PA1200.1, PA500.4 and PA250.2 for amps, Alpine 9861 head unit and Alpine H700 processor.

The MM subs are VERY close to the SR's. The SR's have a little more refinement but the difference isnt huge. The MM subs are awesome.

antman

are rockford punch amp have good SQ?

arun1963

SQ is what you get from a well balanced setup.

The more you minimize the effect of your vehicles environment, the better your SQ. Tuning (dsp), placement of speakers, a correct install and even the quality of speakers are more important than the amp you run. As long as the amp is making rated power with a low noise floor and giving you enough watts based on your speakers rating,
you're fine.

The RF amps are fine. I've heard the p400-4 and that was a good amp. Yes bi-amping will give more power to each driver, more dynamic sound. It will also give you more control over the tweets. If you mount the tweets on the A pillars like Mac suggested, play around with the angles a bit before you do the final install.

antman

thanks arun, will 500 watts of punch amp too much for polk mm10 inch sub? thinking of changing my punch sub soon., i read you are also using the polk sub

arun1963

Yes, I run the 12" momo off 400 watts. I think 500 is plenty for a 10" sub. Along with the watts, the size and type of enclosure is equally important.

antman

thanks

are speaker wires and rca wires makes much different? brand wise, some costing a lot more

nclh7

With my experience, the salesman is straight shooting you.

antman

arun , mac,

what model of scan speak illuminator tweeter are you guys using?
what 6.5" mid-range driver to match the tweeter?

m going to redo my crv
head unit alpine 9887
amp 3 pcs coustic dr505 amp old school
sub helix p10 10 inch

arun1963

I'm running this one.

https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=45_229_324&products_id=8497

On the choice of the mid bass, honestly I would look at raw drivers from someplace like Madisound. Look at stuff like Morels, Peerless, Seas etc. If you are going to mount them in kicks and you can make pods to required size, I would definitely look at the Scans.

If you're going to pair it with the sr tweet, look for something plays flat to about 4khz. Madisound has FR graphs for most drivers.