Correcting S10's bloated bass

halo71
halo71 Posts: 4,603
edited May 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Anyone got any suggestions? I recently acquired a very nice pair of S10's for CHEAP. Had 1 blown tweeter, thanks to Stan (skrol) that has been replaced. I like these but the bass is bloated and boomy to my ears.

Add more poly perhaps?


And whats up with those chessy plastic baffles?? :tongue:
--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
Post edited by halo71 on

Comments

  • intangible
    intangible Posts: 262
    edited May 2011
    Pull them away from the wall and put them on stands, if you haven't already.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited May 2011
    Had a buddy add some blackhole to the interior panels and it really helped focus his S10's. They are very bloated for there size.
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,603
    edited May 2011
    Thanks! I will try the stands first. They are already sitting about 3' from the wall.
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,378
    edited May 2011
    Joe08867 wrote: »
    Had a buddy add some blackhole to the interior panels and it really helped focus his S10's. They are very bloated for there size.

    According to the design engineer of the S series when I asked about the S10 bass: ...with smallest speaker you try all the tricks to get good bass from the small enclosure. With mid models S6 and S8 bass is "naturally" balanced because enclosure is big enough to develop natural bass response proportional to the enclosure volume. Biggest speaker in the line usually targets men who like "mucho" bass.

    For S10 owner, I think that back wall is more critical than side wall, but 4 ft should be good enough. He can try to change direction of the speakers. Adding poly-fill behind the PR may help.


    I am not sure what is meant by changing the direction of the speaker other than toe-in. I'll ask him more next time I see him.
    Stan
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • soundfreak1
    soundfreak1 Posts: 3,414
    edited May 2011
    Everything I've read on those says they need to be on stands and angled slightly. A friend has a pair and listened off stands and with--big diff. The bass straighted right out.
    Main Rig:
    Krell KAV 250a biamped to mid/highs
    Parasound HCA1500A biamped to lows
    Nakamichi EC100 Active xover
    MIT exp 1 ic's
    Perreaux SA33 class A preamp
    AQ kingcobra ic's
    OPPO 83 CDP
    Lehmann audio black cube SE phono pre, Audioquest phono wire (ITA1/1)
    Denon DP-1200 TT. AToc9ML MC cart.
    Monster HTS 3600 power conditioner
    ADS L1590/2 Biamped
    MIT exps2 speaker cable
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,378
    edited May 2011
    Stands probably would help. The way the S8 and especially the S10 are designed, it does not look like they were designed for stands. It looks like the S10 even has feet.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,603
    edited May 2011
    ^ The S10 does in fact have its own feet. Might look kinda funny sitting on a stand. Taking them off might be an option.
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited May 2011
    S10's aren't supposed to be on stands. That is why I suggest BH5 for the inside. The biggest issue in the S series was and is the cabs. They resonate bad and get very boomy even in the smaller 6 and 8's.
  • halo71
    halo71 Posts: 4,603
    edited May 2011
    They do look kinda dumb sitting on stands. I might take the feet off the bottom of the cabinets.
    --Gary--
    Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out.
  • skrol
    skrol Posts: 3,378
    edited May 2011
    The internet is a wonderful place. You can find just about anything you need using Google. I did a search on bloated bass and found a fix.

    To deflate a bloated bass.

    Use a hypodermic needle. To determine the safe insertion point, draw an imaginary line downward from the notch between the soft and spiny portion of the dorsal fin to the anal opening. About three to five scales below the lateral line - the dotted row of scales running from head to tail along the side - insert the needle under a scale at an upward angle. Proper depth of the insertion depends on the size of the fish.

    If the bass and the needle are held slightly below the water's surface during the procedure, bubbles will escape from the needle when the swim bladder is pierced.

    After the bubbling has stopped, the fish should be ready for release with a much better chance of survival. Even if you are not ready to release (you haven't weigh in yet), you should do this while the fish is in your live well to prevent it from dying the painful death especially if you catch it early.


    Sorry, I couldn't resist.
    Stan

    Main 2ch:
    Polk LSi15 (DB840 upgrade), Parasound: P/LD-1100, HCA-1000A; Denon: DVD-2910, DRM-800A; Benchmark DAC1, Monster HTS3600-MKII, Grado SR-225i; Technics SL-J2, Parasound PPH-100.

    HT:
    Marantz SR7010, Polk: RTA11TL (RDO198-1, XO and Damping Upgrades), S4, CS250, PSW110 , Marantz UD5005, Pioneer PL-530, Panasonic TC-P42S60

    Other stuff:
    Denon: DRA-835R, AVR-888, DCD-660, DRM-700A, DRR-780; Polk: S8, Monitor 5A, 5B, TSi100, RM7, PSW10 (DXi104 upgrade); Pioneer: CT-6R; Onkyo CP-1046F; Ortofon OM5E, Marantz: PM5004, CD5004, CDR-615; Parasound C/PT-600, HCA-800ii, Sony CDP-650ESD, Technics SA 5070, B&W DM601