7Bs pass "push" test - any need to re-gasket/Mortite?

TomB

The thread title pretty much says it all: the mid/woofer moves nicely when I push the passive radiator, (in fact, it acts like it would stay all day, if I held the passive radiator) but it doesn't seem like I'm getting the same "thump" of bass that I'm accustomed to.

A little more information: I rebuilt the crossovers a while back, and I probably haven't even broken in the new capacitors yet. (Don't know if that makes a difference.)

It doesn't look like it would be a big deal to re-gasket the drivers and terminal cups with Parts Express foam gasket material or Mortite, but by the same token, I'm not inclined to mess with it if it won't do any good. (I don't like to **** with things just for the sake of doing it.)

Thanks!

kawizx9r

Let the cross-overs break in.

Btw, have you changed your speaker's positioning? The common reason why others experience a 'lack of bass' when it comes to most speakers (in almost every new-to-sda-thread) was due to positioning. Bringing the speakers closer to the rear wall reinforced some of that bass.

As for gaskets/mortite, well there are a wide variety of opinions on that one.

I used mortite before with good results, but if you really want to step it up I'd say contact Larry (Toolforlifefan) about his custom rings that sit between cabinet and driver.

-Freddy

Joe08867

If the pushing in the passive will hold the mid out and it takes longer than 4-5 seconds to fall back in position than you don't need new gaskets or mortite.

Just let the caps burn in. It takes about 100hrs of use to get them settled down.

audiobilly

Food for thought,

you might want to just "secure" up the screws that hold in all the speakers, tweeters - drivers - passive radiators. Just snug em up. I am sure they are just a bit loose after the last time they were touched at the factory. Not saying torque em down, just give a bit o love to make sure they are in good.

FWIW

inspiredsports

TomB wrote: »

The thread title pretty much says it all: the mid/woofer moves nicely when I push the passive radiator, (in fact, it acts like it would stay all day, if I held the passive radiator) but it doesn't seem like I'm getting the same "thump" of bass that I'm accustomed to.

A little more information: I rebuilt the crossovers a while back, and I probably haven't even broken in the new capacitors yet. (Don't know if that makes a difference.)

It doesn't look like it would be a big deal to re-gasket the drivers and terminal cups with Parts Express foam gasket material or Mortite, but by the same token, I'm not inclined to mess with it if it won't do any good. (I don't like to **** with things just for the sake of doing it.)

Thanks!

Sounds like you don't need to worry about gaskets with those more than adequate return times on the midwoofers.

Larry's rings are the bomb for the best coupling of mids and passives to the baffle possible, and the current thinking is that they work best with gaskets versus Mortite.

What caps did you use? Many take 300 hours of signal to fully season.

TomB

Thanks, All.

Audiobilly, I have had the drivers out in the past, inspecting the gaskets and checking the serial numbers of the drivers. I'll check the screws again.

Inspired, I used Dayton capacitors. (Yeah, I know...) I know I don't have 300 hours on them yet. (I may not even have 100 hours, for that matter.)

Thanks again.

F1nut

7Bs pass "push" test - any need to re-gasket/Mortite?

Negative.

audiocr381ve

TomB wrote: »

The thread title pretty much says it all: the mid/woofer moves nicely when I push the passive radiator, (in fact, it acts like it would stay all day, if I held the passive radiator) but it doesn't seem like I'm getting the same "thump" of bass that I'm accustomed to.

A little more information: I rebuilt the crossovers a while back, and I probably haven't even broken in the new capacitors yet. (Don't know if that makes a difference.)

It doesn't look like it would be a big deal to re-gasket the drivers and terminal cups with Parts Express foam gasket material or Mortite, but by the same token, I'm not inclined to mess with it if it won't do any good. (I don't like to **** with things just for the sake of doing it.)

Thanks!

Tom, I don't get that thump I'm accustomed to either. I have my speakers right up against the rear wall. Can't wait to replace the caps/resistors to see if it gives more of a "punch."

inspiredsports

TomB wrote: »

. . . Inspired, I used Dayton capacitors. (Yeah, I know...) I know I don't have 300 hours on them yet. (I may not even have 100 hours, for that matter.)

Yeah, there's great stuff available now, but thinking it through though I'll bet new Dayton's sound better than the "Mexico" caps sounded when the speakers were brand new :biggrin:

TennMan

Is there a standard push test, with acceptable times listed somewhere here on CP?

DON73

audiocr381ve wrote: »

Tom, I don't get that thump I'm accustomed to either. I have my speakers right up against the rear wall. Can't wait to replace the caps/resistors to see if it gives more of a "punch."

My Monitor 7s have new Sonicaps and Mills. I put Mortite behind the mids and the mids would stay out forever if I held the passive in. So far I've noticed a bit more clarity in the highs......more sparkle but I did change the 1000s to Peerless so that may account for the difference in the highs. I can't tell any difference in the bass. I'll be doing my 10s sometime this year but I probably won't use Sonicaps.