What type of grass is this, and how do I get it to spread faster/more?

nguyendot
nguyendot Posts: 3,594
edited May 2011 in The Clubhouse
Hey guys, I saw the mulch/bag thread and figured I'd ask this here.

I have two types of grass in my yard. I'm guessing the generic stuff is bermuda, but what is this thick stuff that grows in clumps with a dark green color? I like it a lot and want it to spread faster than it already has. I can never get the same seeds for some unknown reason, but I know I put it down a year or two ago.

I started dethatching to loosen the soil and remove the crazy layer of thatch, but it dries out the soil since the grass hasn't moved in yet. I also started doing scotts weed n' feed over the whole lawn to help it grow. I'm mowing it to a height of about 3" since that seems like a nice thickness and doesn't dry out where it's established.

Any other suggestions would be appreciated as well. I'm tired of spending money with no result.

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2011-05-03161132.jpg
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Post edited by nguyendot on

Comments

  • DMara
    DMara Posts: 1,434
    edited May 2011
    Should be St. Augustine.
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  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited May 2011
    looks like fesqueue (spelling ?)
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  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,004
    edited May 2011
    Kentucky 31 tall fescue is what it looks like to me.
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  • Polkersince85
    Polkersince85 Posts: 2,883
    edited May 2011
    treitz3 wrote: »
    Kentucky 31 tall fescue is what it looks like to me.

    +1
    Let it grow more than a few weeks and you'll need a bushog to cut it. The Scott's with Atrizine may not be good for it. Read the label to be sure.
    >
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  • mrbigbluelight
    mrbigbluelight Posts: 9,713
    edited May 2011
    Fescue 31 ..... Fescue 32 ..... hey, whatever it takes !
    Sal Palooza
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,004
    edited May 2011
    nguyendot wrote: »
    I'm tired of spending money with no result.
    Take a soil sample to the best nursery you have that accepts them and or has the ability to send them off to be tested. The results of that test will tell you a lot about what the grass/soil needs. I think in most municipalities, there is a public office that will do it for free......but which agency it is basically escapes me right now. Over seeding is always key on a yearly basis in bare/thinning areas.

    Once it is established, hang on to your life as many an hour will be spent mowing it during the spring and fall months. It will most likely turn brown during the summer [normal] unless you keep it watered on a regular basis. It's a beautiful grass when it is established and well maintained.

    If you give up? Hire a pro but don't let them cut the grass to save money. They can get the entire lawn up and looking like a million bucks in about two months.
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  • scottyboy76
    scottyboy76 Posts: 2,905
    edited May 2011
    The advice on taking it to a really good nursery or your county extension agent is perfect advice.

    You wont believe the free pamphlets and booklets they will have available for free, most of it based on research in your state, about everything from lawncare and establishment to fruit trees.

    Also take a soil sample app. 4 inches deep from 10 or 12 places in the area you are growing in, let them know what you want to grow, and for free or a couple bucks they will send it to a state university to be analyzed, giving you instructions on establishment and maintenance, based on the soil from your yard.

    One of the best deals gardeners will ever get.

    Good luck.
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  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited May 2011
    It is K31 fescue. I prefer the narrower blade fescues over the K31 since they clump less, have greener blades (looks like blue grass) and feel better/softer under bare feet.

    Few of the fescues or blue grass strains will spread much on their own as they don't creep/crawl like bermuda or St. Augustine types do. They do grow well in shaded areas unlike bermuda and also take quite a bit more water.

    The best way to change a bermuda lawn to a cool season grass is to kill out the whole lawn, seed or sod it in the fall and reseed it in the spring. Bermuda is nearly impossible to get rid of in a simple overseeding/fertilizer method, since anything that kiils the bermuda will kill the cool season grasses first.
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  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited May 2011
    Thanks guys. I believe you're correct on the Kentucky 31, I distinctly remember the bag now. I'm going to get some soil and have it analyzed when I find the place that does it. In the mean time I'm going to get a big ole' bag of it and overseed. Where it is growing, it's growing very well. I very much like the color and the way it feels under my feet. At 3" tall it's perfect and holds the moisture in VERY well. I used to cut it at 1" and realized it was unhealthy and burnt the grass easily. It also seems to grow better than the rest of the grass, until it hits 100F or more, it burns and there isn't much I can do about it.
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,742
    edited May 2011
    If I were you, I'd wait until September to overseed fescue. If you seed now, anything that comes up will probably not root deep enough to survive summer dryness and heat.
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  • GoBigBlue
    GoBigBlue Posts: 212
    edited May 2011
    It's Kentucky 31. Take from a Kentuckian. ;)
  • nguyendot
    nguyendot Posts: 3,594
    edited May 2011
    billbillw wrote: »
    If I were you, I'd wait until September to overseed fescue. If you seed now, anything that comes up will probably not root deep enough to survive summer dryness and heat.

    It's been 60F every morning topping out at around 70 for the past few weeks. Should be okay..summer is coming late this year
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  • billbillw
    billbillw Posts: 6,742
    edited May 2011
    nguyendot wrote: »
    It's been 60F every morning topping out at around 70 for the past few weeks. Should be okay..summer is coming late this year

    Perhaps you should take a look at this before you waste your money on seed this time of year.

    http://pods.dasnr.okstate.edu/docushare/dsweb/Get/Document-1104/HLA-6419web.pdf

    Specifically, Table 2, tall fescue recommended planting dates. Doesn't get much clearer than that.
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