TL Mod & The SDA-2B's, GREEN LIGHT!
Comments
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I need to clarify something here as I thought I remember reading audiocr381ve's 2B's are blade/blade (meaning 1987)
Both 1987 models (pin/blade and blade/blade) used the The RDE050A polyswitch which has a resistance range of 0.50 to 0.77 ohms.
The 1989 SDA 2B uses the RDE090A which has a lower range of .01 to .12 ohms.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »I need to clarify something here as I thought I remember reading audiocr381ve's 2B's are blade/blade (meaning 1987)
Both 1987 models (pin/blade and blade/blade) used the The RDE050A polyswitch which has a resistance range of 0.50 to 0.77 ohms.
The 1989 SDA 2B uses the RDE090A which has a lower range of .01 to .12 ohms.
Hey Inspired, awesome info as well. Mine are the pin/blade 2B's. Will definitely keep this info in mind when making the order. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »Hey Inspired, awesome info as well. Mine are the pin/blade 2B's. Will definitely keep this info in mind when making the order.
Pin/blade could be either 1987 or 1989, meaning either one of the poly switches.
We are splitting hairs, but a .5 ohm resistor is the best match when replacing 1987 RDE050A poly switches.
If you have 1989's with RDE090A poly switches, I would simply bypass and wouldn't bother replacing with a tiny value .1 or .2 ohm resistors.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
inspiredsports wrote: »Pin/blade could be either 1987 or 1989, meaning either one of the poly switches.
We are splitting hairs, but a .5 ohm resistor is the best match when replacing 1987 RDE050A poly switches.
If you have 1989's with RDE090A poly switches, I would simply bypass and wouldn't bother replacing with a tiny value .1 or .2 ohm resistors.
I have a similar year and just bypassed it. Seriously don't fret over .1-.12 you will never hear a difference between nothing and .1 in the crossover. That doesn't even cover the tolerance discrepancy of the original caps. -
inspiredsports wrote: »Pin/blade could be either 1987 or 1989, meaning either one of the poly switches.
We are splitting hairs, but a .5 ohm resistor is the best match when replacing 1987 RDE050A poly switches.
If you have 1989's with RDE090A poly switches, I would simply bypass and wouldn't bother replacing with a tiny value .1 or .2 ohm resistors.
Awesome. I'll let you know what it looks like when I open em' up.
BTW, I just picked up two RDO-198-1 tweeters -
chandler9a wrote: »this sounds great audiocr381ve. Keep us posted, I have been pondering how to do my SDA 2A's for a while now. not very easy for those of us who have never done it but a good challenge non the less.
I would personally do it all at once and do it right, even if it took longer.
Good luck!
Thanks Chandler! I got your PM by the way. I'll hit you back later today. -
Although you'd never be able to tell because they are unmarked, here are some pictures of my RD0-198's (and my beloved Marantz 2245) that I picked up yesterday.
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Okay guys, I've made a few decisions.
I'm going to go with Mills for all resistors, Sonicap Gen I for the highs, and cheaper caps for the rest of the upgrade (Clarity Caps?).
Can anyone give me some suggestions on cheaper caps for the rest of the build?
UPDATE:
This is the order I put in with Sonicap
Capacitors
Two 5.8uF Gen I
Two 12uF Gen I
Resistors - Mills MRA-12
Two 0.5 Ohm (If not available, 0.1 Ohm will do)
Two 2.7 Ohm -
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SPAMMER!
Where do these guys come from? Why do they post?
Reported. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »Okay guys, I've made a few decisions.
I'm going to go with Mills for all resistors, Sonicap Gen I for the highs, and cheaper caps for the rest of the upgrade (Clarity Caps?).
Can anyone give me some suggestions on cheaper caps for the rest of the build?
Solen
Axon
Clarity Cap PX
I've use all 3 with the Solen and Axon in the low pass and actually the Clarity PX in the high pass and they are all solid performers and budget friendly.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
H9, of the three which did you prefer for the low pass?
Is Madisound the place to order these? I don't know if it matters, but I'm in Southern California. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »H9, of the three which did you prefer for the low pass?
Is Madisound the place to order these? I don't know if it matters, but I'm in Southern California.
They are all so similar it really makes no difference in that position of the x-over. I'd go with wherever you can get them cheaper as far as unit cost and shipping, etc. I can't remember, but Clarity was coming out with 250v versions of some of their caps and they are smaller, which is a good thing.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
audiocr381ve wrote: »SPAMMER!
Where do these guys come from? Why do they post?
Reported.
Because they are retards! :biggrin:
Post 40 SAILSOCKANOSY reported as spam for removalVTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
They are all so similar it really makes no difference in that position of the x-over. I'd go with wherever you can get them cheaper as far as unit cost and shipping, etc. I can't remember, but Clarity was coming out with 250v versions of some of their caps and they are smaller, which is a good thing.
H9
As I'm poking around trying to find different distributors, I found Solen's at partsconnexion.com. They have different lines, with different materials used, as you know. Which ones am I looking for?
These are the options from the drop down menu:
PB Series Metalized Polypropylene Cap
Fastcap: PPE, PPM & PESG Series, Metalized Polypropylene Cap
Fastcap: SA, SB, SE, SM, SN, SY Series Polypropylene Film & Tin Foil Cap
Fastcap: 3Q Metalized Teflon Series FEP Cap
Fastcap: S3Q, S3ZQ Series Teflon FEP Film & Tin Foil Cap
I guess I'm looking for the obvious, which is the massive price difference between the lines but some confirmation would be nice. -
Wow, you are really over thinking this aren't you? :biggrin:
PB series, if you look the rest don't really come in larger sizes.
Partconnexion is out of Canada shipping and wait time can be an issue.
Parts Express carries Solen I'd get them from there rather than PC.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Looks like they are selling Axon caps for 50% off at Part Connexion........seems like a no-brainer to me. I'd go with those despite longer ship times and perhaps a tad higher shipping charge.
H9
P.s. If they stock the values you need."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Wow, you are really over thinking this aren't you? :biggrin:
PB series, if you look the rest don't really come in larger sizes.
Partconnexion is out of Canada shipping and wait time can be an issue.
Parts Express carries Solen I'd get them from there rather than PC.
H9
Why do people keep saying that?! It's making me think that I might actually be out of it :eek::eek::eek:
I am a super uber noob when it comes to this stuff. I'm not going to know if one place has one size or not, or if one place sells only a handful of each line.
Wow, I guess I am over thinking this :redface:
Thanks for the help though H9. My Sonicap order is being shipped out today. I also added Cardas solder to that order.
Edit:
I see the Solens on partsexpress. Should I go with 6 x 20uF caps? They only have a 39uF and not 40uF. -
Yeah, we're busting your balls a bit........don;t be afraid to ask questions, that's how you learn."Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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Yeah, we're busting your balls a bit........don;t be afraid to ask questions, that's how you learn.
Hah, good to know. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »
If that's the value you need, then yes. I have Axon's on the low pass of my 1C's. I believe that's cheaper than Solen or Clarity and they are nice caps. Made on the same production line as Solen.
Partsconnexion is great, just be aware some shipping times are longer and sometimes shipping cost a little higher. But looks like a great deal.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
If that's the value you need, then yes. I have Axon's on the low pass of my 1C's. I believe that's cheaper than Solen or Clarity and they are nice caps. Made on the same production line as Solen.
Partsconnexion is great, just be aware some shipping times are longer and sometimes shipping cost a little higher. But looks like a great deal.
H9
Just put an order in for 6
These aren't a real popular cap are they? What do you mean same production line? Same company? :redface: -
Audior381ve,
I also used the Axon in my case 2x90uf + 82uf for my 260uf on my SDA2a's. With any luck yours will come with longer leads on the ends. Mine with the cap being so large I barely had enough to twist all 3 together but in the end it all worked out.
Good luck you are on the right path just take your time and mark everything so as to not get confused. Also one little reminder do only one side at a time and take pictures before you start it may just save you. It gets a little tight on the board. -
Straight from Parts Connexion website.
These are the capacitors chosen by some of the most highly regarded speaker manufactures around the world. The sound quality is very neutral and open. AXON True Capacitors are made from the finest grade European metalized polypropylene, by the same OEM company in France (SCR), that makes the SOLEN Metalized polypropylene caps. In fact, these are functionally and materially identical to the PA series SOLEN caps, with one advantage - typically, the "actual/measured" AXON values are more closely wound to the nominal printed value.
AXON True Caps are manufactured on high precision Swiss machines with high winding tension to suppress microphonics. They use a multi-wrap encapsulation (white epoxy ends) for protection and oven annealing to improve internal damping. Tolerance is 5% precision, centered on the nominal value. The leads are solid copper, coated with pure tin to prevent oxidation.
I don't know what you mean by not popular. Unless you follow multiple DIY sites you'll never know what's popular. You can't go by just the few x-over modding junkies on this site. Everything I've read points to them being solid caps for the budget minded.
Dayton
Solen
Sonicap
Clarity
Get most of the press here on our small slice of the DIY world but that probably because more sites carry those brands and Sonicap is a board favorite.........for good reason.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Straight from Parts Connexion website.
These are the capacitors chosen by some of the most highly regarded speaker manufactures around the world. The sound quality is very neutral and open. AXON True Capacitors are made from the finest grade European metalized polypropylene, by the same OEM company in France (SCR), that makes the SOLEN Metalized polypropylene caps. In fact, these are functionally and materially identical to the PA series SOLEN caps, with one advantage - typically, the "actual/measured" AXON values are more closely wound to the nominal printed value.
AXON True Caps are manufactured on high precision Swiss machines with high winding tension to suppress microphonics. They use a multi-wrap encapsulation (white epoxy ends) for protection and oven annealing to improve internal damping. Tolerance is 5% precision, centered on the nominal value. The leads are solid copper, coated with pure tin to prevent oxidation.
I don't know what you mean by not popular. Unless you follow multiple DIY sites you'll never know what's popular. You can't go by just the few x-over modding junkies on this site. Everything I've read points to them being solid caps for the budget minded.
Dayton
Solen
Sonicap
Clarity
Get most of the press here on our small slice of the DIY world but that probably because more sites carry those brands and Sonicap is a board favorite.........for good reason.
H9
Completely understood. Great info. -
Have fun, you're in for a real treat. And then again after about the 200 hour break-in period.
H9"Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul! -
Have fun, you're in for a real treat. And then again after about the 200 hour break-in period.
H9
I can hardly wait! ALL parts are now ordered. What a killer deal for the Axom's, thanks again for the recommendation.
I'm gonna be a real pain with the question asking when it comes to opening these speakers up and actually doing the upgrade. I've read TONS of information but their are still some things I'm not clear about. I guess I'll cross that bridge later this week -
Hey guys, I packaged up my RD0-194's because they sold. I want to install the RD0-198's because they are sitting on the table unprotected! I'm not gonna run my system until I perform the mod, so they'll be fine.
My question is, on the right speaker, the Black (-) wire was at the top terminal of the tweeter, and on the left speaker the White (+) wire was on the top terminal. Weird. Which way do they go in?
Also, I expected this but one of the tweeter speaker terminals is bigger on the RD0-198's SO it doesn't fit with the stock wires. If I strip the wire can I solder it directly to the terminal? Thanks guys. -
audiocr381ve wrote: »My question is, on the right speaker, the Black (-) wire was at the top terminal of the tweeter, and on the left speaker the White (+) wire was on the top terminal. Weird. Which way do they go in?