Back in love with my car system
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EndersShadow
Posts: 17,551
Just got my new system installed in my car. Went from a MTX ThunderElite 404 to a Sundown 125.2. Also went from a JL Slash 250/1 to a Sundown 1200D. And I am now in love again with my car.....
So I went from 75x4 to 125x2, and from 250x1 to 720x1. Running a set of db6501's and a Treo 10" 4ohm dual voice coil sub. What does that do you for you might ask....
One word: Separation. My old MTX got loud but you lost lots of the imaging and dynamics. Your ears ended up hurting on some songs (I thought this might just be the norm :eek:)
Now I have the loud but the music still sounds just as good as it did at low levels. In addition my sub goes DEEEEPPPPP! I actually have 10x more mid range and a bunch of highs I did not before.
I have the high pass filter @ 100hz and the low pass filter for the sub @ 80. I plan to keep tweaking with them, but I dont have too many options on the headunit. I do have more on the amps themselves, but am lazy and hate dialing them in manually like that.
Due to my dynamatting its not shaking my car too bad, but some more dynamat is needed eventually.
Overall its a sweet system and I still have a set of db6501's in the rear that I might get a 125.2 for, or just run them off the deck lol. For right now I am falling in love again with driving...
Pictures may be forthcoming....
Now to put the JL and MTX on CL to get some cash back
So I went from 75x4 to 125x2, and from 250x1 to 720x1. Running a set of db6501's and a Treo 10" 4ohm dual voice coil sub. What does that do you for you might ask....
One word: Separation. My old MTX got loud but you lost lots of the imaging and dynamics. Your ears ended up hurting on some songs (I thought this might just be the norm :eek:)
Now I have the loud but the music still sounds just as good as it did at low levels. In addition my sub goes DEEEEPPPPP! I actually have 10x more mid range and a bunch of highs I did not before.
I have the high pass filter @ 100hz and the low pass filter for the sub @ 80. I plan to keep tweaking with them, but I dont have too many options on the headunit. I do have more on the amps themselves, but am lazy and hate dialing them in manually like that.
Due to my dynamatting its not shaking my car too bad, but some more dynamat is needed eventually.
Overall its a sweet system and I still have a set of db6501's in the rear that I might get a 125.2 for, or just run them off the deck lol. For right now I am falling in love again with driving...
Pictures may be forthcoming....
Now to put the JL and MTX on CL to get some cash back
"....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
Post edited by EndersShadow on
Comments
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What you're hearing is a few db's extra of everything, thanks to extra power from the amps. Yes the extra watts will give you better dynamics. I moved from Polk amps to genesis Amps. 1x200 watts on the polk for the sub vs 1x400 watts on the Genesis DM. 4x85 watts on the Polk amp vs 4x140 watts on the Genesis. Huge difference yes. But.....
Imaging / staging in a car depends on:
a) dsp at hand
b) speaker placement
c) driver capability
d) managing the hostile acoustics in a car
Note power has nothing to do with pure imaging.
The last part of the equation is tonality. Here is what I need:
a) dsp and knowing how to use it
b) good drivers
c) proper placement
Good whatever depends on what you're using as a reference point. I use my home 2ch setup as a ref point. So while the car comes close, the home audio still wins. It eventually comes down to managing the crappy environment in the car and I just don't have the patience or time to do that. But it can be done. However yes, the car sounds damn good........compared to any car I've heard here.
If you are serious about pushing the envelope on the car sound, start by getting the hu I recommended in your other thread. -
What you're hearing is a few db's extra of everything, thanks to extra power from the amps. Yes the extra watts will give you better dynamics. I moved from Polk amps to genesis Amps. 1x200 watts on the polk for the sub vs 1x400 watts on the Genesis DM. 4x85 watts on the Polk amp vs 4x140 watts on the Genesis. Huge difference yes. But.....
Imaging / staging in a car depends on:
a) dsp at hand
b) speaker placement
c) driver capability
d) managing the hostile acoustics in a car
Note power has nothing to do with pure imaging.
The last part of the equation is tonality. Here is what I need:
a) dsp and knowing how to use it
b) good drivers
c) proper placement
Good whatever depends on what you're using as a reference point. I use my home 2ch setup as a ref point. So while the car comes close, the home audio still wins. It eventually comes down to managing the crappy environment in the car and I just don't have the patience or time to do that. But it can be done. However yes, the car sounds damn good........compared to any car I've heard here.
If you are serious about pushing the envelope on the car sound, start by getting the hu I recommended in your other thread.
A new headunit is going to be a bit coming. And honestly I need a Auxiliary input for my Zune and would like the ability to hook up someone else's Ipod or charge my Zune while playing via Aux so USB is needed as well.
As a result honestly the only headunit's on my possible list that I had (after a massive amount of research) are the Kenwood KDC-X794, KDC-X994 and maybe the KIV-701 or KIV-BT901 (provided they get Zune connectivity to not take forever).
Both those headunits have a bunch of great DSP features.
Or conversely I could keep my current Headunit and just get an in dash equalizer."....not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted." William Bruce Cameron, Informal Sociology: A Casual Introduction to Sociological Thinking (1963)
