do 2 sub really make difference compared to just one?

2»

Comments

  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited April 2011
    DMara wrote: »
    Are you talking about moving the thermostat or are you talking about the paint?
    If it's about the paint around the thermostat, then it's just the shadow while taking picture, not a painting problem :smile:
    Now if you're talking about moving the thermostat, hmm, I'm lazy now :biggrin:
    I was talking about the paint as I haven't seen a shadow get cast 360 degrees around an object. Must be more reflection off your polished tops. Regardless, I'm jealous of your setup. I have yet to hear a 113 as a buddy of mine swears it's the penicle of home subs. And to have two? *tear*
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
  • aboroth00
    aboroth00 Posts: 1,106
    edited April 2011
    Mr Glide wrote: »
    I recently acquired new PSW505. It's very powerful (300 watts), however, I feel find that my 15 year old Velodyne CT100 has tighter, cleaner bass (perhaps the new location where boomy PSW505 is now located makes it sound bit less desirable (?), will have to investigate).

    I hear everyone here saying is to get the same model of sub as 2nd sub. Since PSW505 being an obsolete model, I am don't know how long it's going to be available (out of stock these days at most internet sites). So, I need to make decision soon whether to pull trigger for 2nd one or not. Wish Polk folks let us know when they really plan to stop manufacturing their products.

    In any case, your input is appreciated. Seems like no one has done serious tests (e.g. using test CD,etc.) for 2 subs setup, but general consensus so far seems to be that 2 is better than one.


    Specifically, does anyone have 2 PSW505s in their setup? Care to share your experience?


    Also, is there such thing (test track, cd,etc.) available to see difference specifically between 1 sub and 2 subs in a particular setup?

    Thanks!

    I have to comment, the wattage rating almost means nothing on judging the capabilities of a subwoofer. Also with subwoofers, it is location, location, location. You can move a subwoofer one foot and it'll dramatically change the room response. I've moved my Epik Phoenix one foot to the right, and the FR changed from flat to very hilly.

    It is most desirable to use identical subs as you'll know their similar performance when pushed. However, I have had no problems matching two quality subs together. I've matched a SVS PB10 to a SVS 20-39PC+, Hsu TN1220HO's together... MBM modules... and I currently am still running unmatched subs. You just have to make sure one sub can keep up with the other and calibrate them properly.

    IMO, the PW505 is not a powerful sub, it will not compete with the big boys. There is simply no replacement for displacement. You can see the Polk rolls off very steeply below 30hz http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_12_2/polk-psw-505-subwoofer-4-2005.html. If you want something for HT that can hit hard down low as well as have plenty of output, I'd suggest you look elsewhere than Polk. More in the lines of SVS, Hsu, Epik, eD. Typically one sub from these manufacturers can beat a pair of those PSW's and will go a long way farther in output and extension. If music is more of a priority than a roll off below 30hz is not important. Two subs will help solve room woes, but it will not solve output and extension woes. A new better sub is in order.
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert
  • aboroth00
    aboroth00 Posts: 1,106
    edited April 2011
    This review lead me to stay away from bigger manufacturers such as Velo, Infinity, Polk for subs and step into bigger subs such as SVS and ID sub companies. They can just make better subs for the buck. A couple of years ago, I had experienced Polk subs, Infinity subs, Velodyne subs and they did their job, but I didn't really know what else was out there until I stepped up and purchased a used SVS. I simply will never look back. You can usually see, size-wise, ID subs are bigger, and generally have better output. Not to say these companies subs are bad, they're just aimed differently and built with different priorities. Velodyne still makes great subs especially with their DD line.

    http://www.hometheaterforum.com/forum/thread/201692/400-sub-face-off-svs-pb10-isd-takes-on-a-few-competitors
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert
  • rubin
    rubin Posts: 565
    edited April 2011
    I started with one then added another and I liked the addition so much that now I have four. But I'm a bass nut.
  • aboroth00
    aboroth00 Posts: 1,106
    edited April 2011
    over50 wrote: »
    In reguards to subwoofer, would you expert users recommend isolation platform.
    Or would spike's be ok. My room is approximently 11X20 carpet.

    Spikes will couple the subwoofer directly to the floor and is actually totally opposite of what you want to accomplish with isolation platforms. I have tile over a concrete foundation and I still had vibrations travel rattling windows, doors and walls. I constructed my own platforms and all of those problems went away.

    So if you want to decouple your sub from the floor, spikes are not the answer it'll increase the vibrations being emitted into the floor. Only an isolation platform will decouple the platform. If you want to DIY it, send me a PM, i'll send you the materials I used.
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert
  • aboroth00
    aboroth00 Posts: 1,106
    edited April 2011
    rubin wrote: »
    I started with one then added another and I liked the addition so much that now I have four. But I'm a bass nut.

    I went a little different route. I had an 8" then at 10". Then they kept getting bigger and now it's 18" and 4x10".
    2Ch Tube Audio Convert
  • DMara
    DMara Posts: 1,434
    edited April 2011
    Toxis wrote: »
    I was talking about the paint as I haven't seen a shadow get cast 360 degrees around an object. Must be more reflection off your polished tops. Regardless, I'm jealous of your setup. I have yet to hear a 113 as a buddy of mine swears it's the penicle of home subs. And to have two? *tear*

    You made me go close to the wall and look at that spot. And yes, you're right, the old paint is a little bit darker than the new one; somehow I missed that spot :mad: However in real life it was actually a bit harder to recognize than in that picture. Go figure :)
    Gears shared to both living room & bedroom:
    Integra DHC-80.3 / Oppo BDP-105 / DirecTV HR24 DVR /APC S15blk PC-UPS
    Living room:
    LSiM707's / LSiM706c / LSiM702 F/X's / dual JL Audio Fathom F113's / Parasound Halo A51 / Panasonic 65" TC-P65VT50
    Bedroom:
    Usher Dancer Mini 2 Diamond DMD's / Logitech SB Touch / W4S STP-SE / W4S DAC-2 / W4S ST-1000 / Samsung 52" LN52B750
    Other rooms:
    Audioengine AP4's / GLOW Audio Sub One / audio-gd NFB-3 DAC / Audioengine N22
    audio-gd NFB-10.2 / Denon AH-D7000
  • Slyder01
    Slyder01 Posts: 115
    edited April 2011
    aboroth00 wrote: »
    Spikes will couple the subwoofer directly to the floor and is actually totally opposite of what you want to accomplish with isolation platforms. I have tile over a concrete foundation and I still had vibrations travel rattling windows, doors and walls. I constructed my own platforms and all of those problems went away.

    So if you want to decouple your sub from the floor, spikes are not the answer it'll increase the vibrations being emitted into the floor. Only an isolation platform will decouple the platform. If you want to DIY it, send me a PM, i'll send you the materials I used.

    When i get time i'm going to show some pics and vids of the difference between having a platform and not having one as well. My micro pros really liked to dance on the floor, but no more. I only have 8 bucks in my platforms.
    And yes, they make a huge difference, no more pictures falling off the wall,,lol
    Yamaha rx-a2000 AVR
    Polk csi5 Center
    Polk rt16 Main
    Polk fxia6 Rear Surround
    Paradigm Micro Rear Back
    Onkyo bookshelf Front Presence (for now)
    PSW 450 Front Sub
    DSW MicroPro 4000 Front Sub
    DSW MicroPro 2000 Rear Sub
    Samsung c6300 60 inch LED
    Sony BDPs370
    Room Size 15x30
  • Slyder01
    Slyder01 Posts: 115
    edited April 2011
    DMara wrote: »
    You made me go close to the wall and look at that spot. And yes, you're right, the old paint is a little bit darker than the new one; somehow I missed that spot :mad: However in real life it was actually a bit harder to recognize than in that picture. Go figure :)

    hey Dmara, i'll repaint that spot for your set-up! lol..:biggrin:
    Yamaha rx-a2000 AVR
    Polk csi5 Center
    Polk rt16 Main
    Polk fxia6 Rear Surround
    Paradigm Micro Rear Back
    Onkyo bookshelf Front Presence (for now)
    PSW 450 Front Sub
    DSW MicroPro 4000 Front Sub
    DSW MicroPro 2000 Rear Sub
    Samsung c6300 60 inch LED
    Sony BDPs370
    Room Size 15x30
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited April 2011
    DMara wrote: »
    You made me go close to the wall and look at that spot. And yes, you're right, the old paint is a little bit darker than the new one; somehow I missed that spot :mad: However in real life it was actually a bit harder to recognize than in that picture. Go figure :)

    Just found something for ya to do this weekend... Haha
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
  • Toxis
    Toxis Posts: 5,116
    edited April 2011
    Toxis wrote: »
    Say you already have a single sub and want a little better sound (not so much output necessarily). Would you rather add a second sub or add an SMS-1? This is something I'm thinking about currently...
    beuller?
    Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.

    Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.

    Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener.
  • odin2ken
    odin2ken Posts: 3
    edited May 2012
    F112 (on Auralex subdude) stacked on F113 (on Auralex Great Gramma)dual sub setup plus a DSW micropro3000 sub,the JL shakes my whole house LOL..

    20120502145.jpg
    Pc Audio 7.2 system : Onkyo TX-NR709 | Emotiva XPA-5 | Polk Audio LSiM705 | BlackStone Series TL260 on Modpads| Polk Audio DSW Micropro 3000 Sub on Gramma |Dual JL Audio F112 stack on F113 with Auralex Great Gramma & Subdude
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited May 2012
    You may have better results by placing them in different parts of the room.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • odin2ken
    odin2ken Posts: 3
    edited May 2012
    Still in the phrase of calibration.....i do this with the help of JL tech support,they email me the setup steps to follow,in order to hit the magic of f212 or g213.....^^
    Face wrote: »
    You may have better results by placing them in different parts of the room.
    Pc Audio 7.2 system : Onkyo TX-NR709 | Emotiva XPA-5 | Polk Audio LSiM705 | BlackStone Series TL260 on Modpads| Polk Audio DSW Micropro 3000 Sub on Gramma |Dual JL Audio F112 stack on F113 with Auralex Great Gramma & Subdude
  • Geoff4rfc
    Geoff4rfc Posts: 2,474
    edited May 2012
    I'm glad this thread resurfaced. A lot of good info here.

    I have been planning on adding a second sub to my set up, my wife thought I was kidding then was in mild shock when she realized I was serious, okay, severe shock.

    After reading some of the links, I was able to reassure her that a second sub would smooth out the bass response, and, I told her that the higher number of subs, the smoother the response, like 5000 or so :mrgreen:
    Source: BRP Panasonic UB9000, CDP Emotiva ERC3 - Display: LG OLED EVO 83 C3 - Pre/Pro: Marantz 8802A - Amplification: Emotiva XPA-DR3, XPA-2 x 2, XPA-6, Speakers, Mains/2ch-Focal Kanta No2's, C-LSiM706, S-702F/X, RS-RTiA9's, WS-RTiA9's, FH-RTiA3's, Subs - Epik Empire x 2

    Cables: AudioQuest McKenzie XLR's/CDP/Amp, Carbon 48/BRP, Forest 48/Display, 2 channel speaker cable: Furutech FS Alpha 36 12AWG PCOCC Single Crystal (Douglas Connection)

    EXPERIENCE: next to nothing, but I sure enjoy audio and video MY OPINION OF THIS HOBBY: I may not be a smart man, but I know what quicksand is.
    When I was young, I was Superman but now that old age has gotten the best of me I'm only Batman