how dead is too dead?

Esreuter
Esreuter Posts: 176
edited April 2011 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Evening forum,

here is my question to you all.

from my activity on this thread most of you are probably sick of hearing about me and my monitors. but please stick with me, its all in learning and fun.

speakers: monitors 70 40 and cs2.

question, after adding dynamat to the driver cages, and eggcrate foam to the cabinet walls, i have 2 questions,

1. is there a danger to adding dynamat on the magnetic shield on the back of the driver? i have seen this on several DIY posts and other websites.

2. i recently thought, would there be an advantage to dynamatting the front cabinet wall, where the drivers seat. i did not foam this wall as i figured with out a back wave and reflection there would be no need. But now i wonder, since the driver is mounted there, what about vibrations from the driver?
would dynamatting this face help or kill the cabinets purpose and ruin my sound experience? any one done this? thoughts? experiences?

Thank you all for your help, i have learned lots just hangin out here.

ESR:biggrin::biggrin:
AVR: Sony 5600ES
Center: CS2II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
Front: Monitor 70 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coils, Mundorf resistors)
Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
Rear Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)

More to come :biggrin:
Post edited by Esreuter on

Comments

  • Toolfan66
    Toolfan66 Posts: 17,958
    edited April 2011
    I wouldn't put dynamat anywhere inside the cabinets. I don't see any need to dynamat the magnets, your not going to hurt anything by doing so though..
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2011
    Damn, I am so sick of hearing about your..........
    Just kidding.:biggrin:
    I put some of the Parts Express vinyl based sound dampening sheets in my RT 10's and I am very pleased with the results.
    I did not put a whole lot, maybe 1/4 to half sheet on on 4 sides internally(up around the mid tweet area), a little on the top plate (internally), and only a couple of wider strips down low around the power port (internally).
    Added with the factory foam it worked wonders.
    I put Trilaminates in my Rt 10's and upgraded the x-overs also, so this tweak helped some on taming the brightness of the tweeters.
    Highly recommended as long as you do not over do it.
    Testing
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    Testing
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2011
    I would think dynamat is reflective, and used mainly for keeping road noise out of your vehicle.
    I did my S10 doors with it.
    May want to look at other options to use internally in your speakers.
    Testing
    Testing
    Testing
  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited April 2011
    I have used Dynamat inside of speakers before and It helped immensely. Not the reflective stuff the heavy rubber stuff. It seemed to do more with cabinet resonance than internal cabinet reflection but I was looking to cut the cabinet resonance I was having trouble with on my SDA's.

    The stuff I used is called Dynaliner.
  • Esreuter
    Esreuter Posts: 176
    edited April 2011
    alright.

    so you guys know this already, but i wanted to post my excitment.

    i just treated my CS2 with dynamat on the cage of the drivers and wow what a difference.

    i was honestly thinking it would be one of those barely noticeable tweaks but i was wrong.

    the volume (to me) has increased, by my ears, no special measuring equipment. and the voices are clear, clear, clear.

    i am a touch in shock. really.

    now my next question is can any one explain why this has happened? i know the material dampens vibrations, but is it because the vibrations remove power from the movement of the driver cone and coil?

    i am shootin in the dark here but would love a lesson in physics and why this stuff makes a good deal of difference.

    thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.

    ESR.:biggrin::biggrin:
    AVR: Sony 5600ES
    Center: CS2II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Front: Monitor 70 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coils, Mundorf resistors)
    Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)
    Rear Surrounds: Monitor 40 II (Clarity Caps PX, Perfect Lay coil, Mundorf resistors)

    More to come :biggrin:
  • bkeane1259
    bkeane1259 Posts: 54
    edited April 2011
    Esreuter wrote: »
    alright.

    so you guys know this already, but i wanted to post my excitment.

    i just treated my CS2 with dynamat on the cage of the drivers and wow what a difference.

    Ooops....I guess my post is a bit late, but FWIW - http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1569601&postcount=13

    I too have had good experience with damping stamped driver baskets. I think the more complex the program material the more benefit you're going to realize by ensuring there's no possible way for energy transfer within the driver to produce any sort of "ringing" and "vibration" that muddies the output. In the case of a center channel where a lot of subtle dynamics are at play (actors voices, for example), I can see how this simple and cheap damping procedure would be enormously beneficial. On the same token, I do not think it's worth it to mess around with die cast frames on higher-quality drivers. Best test is to just flick the driver basket with your finger and listen for the ringing sound. You're NOT going to hear that in a die cast aluminum frame like you will in a stamped basket. Anyway, good luck with your project. Glad to see you're making headway.