2A Spikes
intangible
Posts: 262
Anybody spike a pair of 2As? Search brought up nothing. They've got the permanently attached stand portion, and I'm not sure if it is safe to put the spikes into it, or if it needs to be removed and the spikes placed directly into the cabinet.
Post edited by intangible on
Comments
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I believe I have seen F1nut comment on this. From what I remember he recommends to add a block of wood in each corner and use a T-nut in the blocks.
I could be wrong but it makes sense. the blocks would have to fit from the bottom of the cabinet to flush with stand. Not sure how you would attach it though.
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From what I remember he recommends to add a block of wood in each corner and use a T-nut in the blocks.
I could be wrong but it makes sense. the blocks would have to fit from the bottom of the cabinet to flush with stand. Not sure how you would attach it though.
You have a good memory.
Attach the blocks of wood with yellow wood glue and use clamps to hold snug until the glue dries. You want a tight fit on the 3 surfaces of the blocks that contact the cabinet bottom and base frame.
Another option would be to remove the base frame, making sure to fill the 4 screw holes in the cabinet bottom. Then, drill shallow holes for the T-nuts in the cabinet bottom, hammer in place and screw in the new spikes. If you chose this method you should go with 2" high spikes. If you chose to keep the base and add the blocks, use 1" high spikes. Either way, adding 1" to the over all height brings the tweeter up closer to ear level as I think they are a bit too low in the 2A/2B's.Political Correctness'.........defined
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Wood blocks sound like the way to go. Thanks for the help!
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that is very good info, Thank you F1