Monitor 10b xo Upgrade

Jack A
Jack A Posts: 77
edited April 2011 in Vintage Speakers
One down one to go Sonic caps,Mills resistors,Vampire Terminal Posts
Clarajack
Post edited by Jack A on
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  • Oldfatdogs
    Oldfatdogs Posts: 1,874
    edited April 2011
    Looks good not much room left on that board. Let us know how they sound. I'm starting to look forward to redoing my monitor 7s.
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited April 2011
    Nice job. Let us know what you think when they are burned in.
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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    Joe how does it take for the caps to burn in and what should I listen for?
    Clarajack
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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    It's a tight fit but they do go in. The desoldering was a pain, I found the SOLDER SUCKER
    (SUCKS) cooper desoldering braid worked better for me. Also you whant to leave the wire leads uncut until all components are in place
    Clarajack
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited April 2011
    Good looking job Jack! I look forward to hearing more about how they sound.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • TNHNDYMAN
    TNHNDYMAN Posts: 2,145
    edited April 2011
    Nice job Jack, I may use that last picture idea for reference when I get ready to do my own pair.
    2-ch System: Parasound P/LD 2000 pre, Parasound HCA-1000 amp, Parasound T/DQ Tuner, Phase Technology PC-100 Tower speakers, Technics SL-1600 Turntable, Denon 2910 SACD/CD player, Peachtree DAC iT and X1asynchorus USB converter, HSU VTF-3 subwoofer.

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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    Joe, how long does it take to burn in capacitors? What takes place in the capacitor during this process?
    Clarajack
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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    Does anyone know how long a new capacitor takes to burn in and what takes place inside the capacitor during this process?
    Clarajack
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited April 2011
    Jack A wrote: »
    Does anyone know how long a new capacitor takes to burn in and what takes place inside the capacitor during this process?

    Hi Jack,

    Personal experience rebuilding xovers in my Def Techs is around 200 hours, and this is for sonicaps, mills and alpha core air core inductors.

    Fred
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    Thanks Fred,
    What kind of difference in sound from the first hour to 200 hours can you expect..
    Clarajack
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  • drumminman
    drumminman Posts: 3,396
    edited April 2011
    I did other work in addition to replacing the caps, so what I heard is based on that as well. IOW, I was impatient and did everything at once.

    Initially, I didn't hear a huge difference. After a couple of weeks I thought I had spent several hundred dollars to gain a slight increase in clarity, high end smoothness and tighter bass. I was a little disappointed.

    But almost exactly at the 200 hour mark, things really opened up: a much more 3d soundstage, a more organic relaxed sound with greater clarity during complex passages,tighter, more tuneful bass. I emailed Danny Ritchie, the guy that helped me with this project to see if burn in of the various components could be the possible explanation. He confirmed that I had experienced what others had.

    Because I only play the big rig 4-5 hours a week it took a long time for this to occur. I had simply given up on hearing the improvements I was hoping for. I was blown away when everything simply opened up! :eek:

    Hope this helps!

    Fred
    "Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    Thanks, Fred for the information. What method for desoldering the old xo components did you use, I had trouble with that solder sucker it seems I was not fast enough with that sucker.
    Jack
    Clarajack
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited April 2011
    I use De-soldering Braid. You can get online or at RadioShack.

    I always have trouble with Solder Suckers.
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited April 2011
    Are you guys talking about having problems with the suckers that have a squeeze bulb or the spring loaded type? I've found that the spring loaded type works pretty good.
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • Joe08867
    Joe08867 Posts: 3,919
    edited April 2011
    The sucker I tried to use was a squeeze ball type. Never tried a spring loaded one.
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  • TennMan
    TennMan Posts: 1,266
    edited April 2011
    The spring loaded suckers are much easier to use. Makes the sucking a one handed operation. You push the plunger in to **** it. When you are ready to suck up the solder you press the button on the side that releases the spring. The spring pulls back a plunger causing a vacuum inside the tube. A hole in the tip sucks up the solder. Prices vary from about $5-$30 depending on the quality you want. Amazon has a good selection.

    218C0QE2FXL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
    • SDA 2BTL · Sonicaps · Mills resistors · RDO-198s · New gaskets · H-nuts · Erse inductors · BH5 · Dynamat
    • Crossover upgrades by westmassguy
    • Marantz 1504 AVR (front speaker pre-outs to Adcom 555)
    • Adcom GFA-555 amp · Upgrades & speaker protection added by OldmanSRS
    • Pioneer DV-610AV DVD/CD player
    • SDA CRS+ · Hidden away in the closet
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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    Ronnie, That looks like a better solder sucker than I have, maybe that's the problem. The Radio Shack desoldering braid is to narrow for sucking up a solder joint. Anyway the crossovers are all done and the sound went up to the next level.
    Clarajack
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  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited April 2011
    Joe, Jeff at Sonic Craft says 100 listening hours
    Clarajack
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  • DON73
    DON73 Posts: 516
    edited April 2011
    Looks like about $195 total? Just bought Sonicraft and Mills for my 7s. I live in Tx. and Sonicraft has a facility there so I was blessed with an 8%+ sales tax but I received the parts the second day after ordering. I want to do my 10s but I don't know if I want to pay the freight for Sonics:smile: When I get my 7s finished I think I'll cover them with foam and put a cd on repeat and leave them for a week or two. I'm burning in a pair of Advents now. I have two pair one pair has been recapped and the other has not. The one with the old caps sound a lot better than the pair with new caps. Upper midrange and top end in the old caps is much much better.
    TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE.
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  • greyhnd
    greyhnd Posts: 17
    edited April 2011
    I just finished one of a pair of 7's this afternoon. I used Clarity Cap PX Series 12uf for the tweeter and Erse PulseX for the mid/woofer. I've had it playing next to the other speaker that I plan on finishing tomorrow for about 4 hours or so. The thing I notice more than anything is the tweeter isn't as harsh after the re-cap.

    I used a solder sucker from RS that has the iron and sucker together. Squeeze the bulb, heat the solder, release the bulb. I was surprised how well it worked once I got the hang of it. Cost me a little more than $10 and I think saved me some headaches.
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