DIY Speakers
Comments
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cokewithvanilla wrote: »ok, it looks like the statements are number one on my list right now. I kind of wish they used a bit more expensive parts, but maybe it's not necessary. I am sending out the plans to some people... is there anything I should note that might not be fully explained in the plans?
There is no real reason to use more expensive parts just for the sake of expense.
The parts chosen are all performing in their sweet spot. Double the drivers means lower distortion than a single driver of same displacement plus more output.
Look at the Vifa ring radiator tweeter. It performs almost as well as tweeters that cost $150+. Law of diminishing returns apply here.
Let me know if you need the X-Overs built for you. -
cokewithvanilla wrote: »Well, that was quick... I just got a reply:
"I would be glad to give you a quote on building your speaker cabinets to your spec sheet, I just need to know how many you would like and if you want it lined with Dyna-Mat and what exterior would you want? (carpet, paint: etc...)"
Question... I didn't see anyone using dynamat in their builds, but most people used some foam inserts... It seems like these inserts need to be put in before the design is finished. What material should I use on the inside? I will probably do it myself... and just have him finish putting the cabinet together after.
Someone used:
Does this have to be completely lined throughout? I dunno if this is a final picture
edit: he mentioned carpet... maybe I should tell him I want it done in 3 inch purple shag :P
edit: look at the bracing this guy used in his build... I don't think this is in the specs... it looks nice... is there a reason to do this?
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=37933&page=1
His fronts seem to be a bit thicker too... his whole build seems to be on a higher level than the others... I like it... but doesn't that change the sound?
I doubt the change in bracing would alter the sound much. As far as I'm aware he and I are the only ones that Dado'd our Statements. I followed the CAD drawing and doubt slight deviation is going to change that much. Also his is the sealed build in the link.
For the lining you can use 2" un-backed insulation. Just line the woofer cavities not the entire box. For the Tunnels parts-express 1" self adhesive foam will work.
What he did with the mid tunnels is really smart. Wish I would have thought of it:frown:
Another build that you will want look at is John Trials build of the Statements. Off the hook. -
I doubt the change in bracing would alter the sound much. As far as I'm aware he and I are the only ones that Dado'd our Statements. I followed the CAD drawing and doubt slight deviation is going to change that much. Also his is the sealed build in the link.
For the lining you can use 2" un-backed insulation. Just line the woofer cavities not the entire box. For the Tunnels parts-express 1" self adhesive foam will work.
What he did with the mid tunnels is really smart. Wish I would have thought of it:frown:
I like his bracing... what's Dado'd? How do I request a shop to do this for me? Pictures? or?
edit: just looked it up... I thought that was the only way... what's the spec sheet say? I suck at stuff like this ha... my special ed really shines in these sort of situations -
cokewithvanilla wrote: »I like his bracing... what's Dado'd? How do I request a shop to do this for me? Pictures? or?
edit: just looked it up... I thought that was the only way... what's the spec sheet say? I suck at stuff like this ha... my special ed really shines in these sort of situations
Dado is just a way of joining two surfaces. I don't use any mechanical fasteners in my builds so I use dado's and glue. They allow the pieces to interlock and increase the surface area for glue. Dado works with the glue's tendency to squeeze out.
The build sheet for the Statements really wont change and your builder will know what to do if you want everything dado'd. If they are doing this on a CNC Router it will be no problem. -
He quoted 345 for the cabinets, all inclusive... not bad, what do you think?
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cokewithvanilla wrote: »He quoted 345 for the cabinets, all inclusive... not bad, what do you think?
That is a fair price. Figure about $80-90 of that is materials. And it will be done quicker:biggrin: -
Well, speed doesn't matter since I don't plan to have them done for a while. Wow, I didn't know how cheap the materials were. You can build them for me cheaper if you want
Hey, do you have a parts list? -
cokewithvanilla wrote: »Well, speed doesn't matter since I don't plan to have them done for a while. Wow, I didn't know how cheap the materials were. You can build them for me cheaper if you want
Hey, do you have a parts list?
The BOM is here. MDF isn't exactly expensive. -
Thanks, his site really messy...I didn't even notice that.
Yeah, I guess that's where wood working skills come in handy. How are you going to finish yours? -
cokewithvanilla wrote: »Thanks, his site really messy...I didn't even notice that.
Yeah, I guess that's where wood working skills come in handy. How are you going to finish yours?
I purchased veneered MDF ($70/sheet). -
Likewise I would love a personal test drive with one.My main system is fully active using purely analog active crossovers as IMO is a purer approach than using DSP and it's added A-D & D-A stages.However the miniDSP offers a ton of versatility and easy adjustability (not to mention inexpensive) that I think it I'll get one soon to try. -
Alright, I got another email from the dude who is gonna do my cabinets. Apparently, he wants to do them. He says it will take 4-5 days, no up front payment, and his work is guaranteed. Sounds like a deal to me.
however, I am still trying to fit all the details in my small brain. This is my first DIY build and I don't wanna eff up, so I got a few more questions...
1. can the crossovers fit inside AFTER complete assembly (minus the drivers of course)?
2. Can mdf support the drivers, or does some sort of metal need to be added?
In this picture, I see metal (I think)
Also, how does the guy know where the holes go if I don't intend to buy drivers yet? I am assuming they are all equidistant from each other, but still, there's gotta be a pattern.
I think I want it shaved down like this, and that makes the location of the holes that much more important.
3. Airhole.. I need air hole (
). I am assuming I will have to buy the port so that he can install it, or can it be installed after assembly?
4. The sound dampening material is freaking me out, man. It looks like some will have to be installed before the enclosure is finished. However, I was reading about not gluing the stuff down for "tuning" purposes. Of course, I have no idea what the hell I am doing, so tuning is unlikely, but in the unlikely event there is a second owner, or I grow a brain, I would like to keep my options open. I prefer to use the cleanest material I can. I know jinjuku mentioned insulation, but I hate the stuff. It puts me into an asthmatic fit. Will something like this work, maybe doubling up? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-525
5. Jinjuku, you mentioned something about a granite base? in the picture, it shows like a three inch thick base of 4 panels of, I assume, mdf. Are you using granite instead? if so, why (you know i'd like to copy you, ha)?
Of course, thanks again everyone (especially you, jinjuku). this process has moved quicker than I had anticipated and I would still be lost without all the input I've gotten. -
cokewithvanilla wrote: »Alright, I got another email from the dude who is gonna do my cabinets. Apparently, he wants to do them. He says it will take 4-5 days, no up front payment, and his work is guaranteed. Sounds like a deal to me.
however, I am still trying to fit all the details in my small brain. This is my first DIY build and I don't wanna eff up, so I got a few more questions...
1. can the crossovers fit inside AFTER complete assembly (minus the drivers of course)?
No, you will fit the x-overs in and then the baffle goes on. You will want to mount the speakers in the baffle free air, hook up the x-overs and test everything out.cokewithvanilla wrote: »2. Can mdf support the drivers, or does some sort of metal need to be added?
No, You will use what are called hurricane or t-nuts.cokewithvanilla wrote: »In this picture, I see metal (I think)
Also, how does the guy know where the holes go if I don't intend to buy drivers yet? I am assuming they are all equidistant from each other, but still, there's gotta be a pattern.
Does the cabinet maker have a CNC router? Does Parts Express have a CAD file for the drivers? If not you will need to purchase drivers before hand (the Tweeters as a matched pair, and one of each of the woofer and mid, order the rest later).cokewithvanilla wrote: »I think I want it shaved down like this, and that makes the location of the holes that much more important.
The holes get drilled, the t-nuts installed then routed around.cokewithvanilla wrote: »3. Airhole.. I need air hole (). I am assuming I will have to buy the port so that he can install it, or can it be installed after assembly?
Get the port first from Parts Express. Your builder will appreciate having something they can take a dimension from.cokewithvanilla wrote: »4. The sound dampening material is freaking me out, man. It looks like some will have to be installed before the enclosure is finished. However, I was reading about not gluing the stuff down for "tuning" purposes. Of course, I have no idea what the hell I am doing, so tuning is unlikely, but in the unlikely event there is a second owner, or I grow a brain, I would like to keep my options open. I prefer to use the cleanest material I can. I know jinjuku mentioned insulation, but I hate the stuff. It puts me into an asthmatic fit. Will something like this work, maybe doubling up? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-525
I would get the 1.5 inch PSA instead of the 1 inch for the woofer cavities. Use the 1 inch on the mid tunnels (it's what I used).cokewithvanilla wrote: »5. Jinjuku, you mentioned something about a granite base? in the picture, it shows like a three inch thick base of 4 panels of, I assume, mdf. Are you using granite instead? if so, why (you know i'd like to copy you, ha)?
I am porting out the front of the speaker, not the bottom. I have a customer that run's a kitchen and bath shop they have tons of scrap laying around and it's generally inexpensive. For me all I have to do is pick it up. They will even machine it for me. I just like the look. -
Wow. Thanks.
Ok, so is there any reason that I might want to make the baffle removable... like, in case I want to mod the XO, or if something breaks? Or maybe make a larger cutout in the rear so that it can be removed from there?
I have not asked if he has a CNC router, but I went ahead and asked parts express if they have the layouts.
As for the t-nuts, is there a certain size, or can I just use any size I want? -
cokewithvanilla wrote: »Wow. Thanks.
Ok, so is there any reason that I might want to make the baffle removable... like, in case I want to mod the XO, or if something breaks? Or maybe make a larger cutout in the rear so that it can be removed from there?
I have not asked if he has a CNC router, but I went ahead and asked parts express if they have the layouts.
As for the t-nuts, is there a certain size, or can I just use any size I want?
You can get the T-nuts and inset hex screws from Parts Express. They should be an option on the driver page when you order.
You could make a removable gasketed panel in the back for X-Over access. -
About how big do you think the XO's will be? where are you locating yours and is there any downside to a panel?
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cokewithvanilla wrote: »About how big do you think the XO's will be? where are you locating yours and is there any downside to a panel?
I will have to grab a tape measure. I am mounting the tweeter section on the mid tunnel. The mid and woofers will go in the bottom.
No downside to a panel if it is gasketed correctly. -
There may be another option on the horizon for you. A Statements knock down / flat pack may be coming from Diysoundgroup.com.
Check it out and call them. -
Dude, these Statments are going to blow your mind. Easily take on $10k + speakers.
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Dude, these Statments are going to blow your mind. Easily take on $10k + speakers.
J.H. Christ, where you been man?!
Still loving the XLS 402? Nice to see you pop up again. Want to come down for the unvieling(when I finally manage to finish them)?
