Replacing binding posts on Polk RTA 12's
steelglam
Posts: 33
Has anyone here replaced a set of binding posts on Polk RTA 12's before? If so, is there a specific replacement part that has to be installed, or will any regular set of replacement binding posts fit? I ask because I am replacing the binding posts on a pair of Klipsch Forte speakers that I have, and I ordered a few additional pairs of the OEM Klipsch binding posts as backups. They haven't yet arrived, but I'm wondering if I can use them on my Polk RTA 12's once they do. I think its about time to replace the binding posts on my Polks...they're getting a bit worn, plus they have that really small gap in the middle of the post that is too small to thread through 12- or 10-gauge wire.
Anyhow, does anyone have any insight into what kind of posts are needed or will work for the RTA 12's?
Thanks in advance.
Anyhow, does anyone have any insight into what kind of posts are needed or will work for the RTA 12's?
Thanks in advance.
Post edited by steelglam on
Comments
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they have that really small gap in the middle of the post that is too small to thread through 12- or 10-gauge wire.
Thus the popularity of pin ends for speaker cables.
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Thus the popularity of pin ends for speaker cables.
I have pin ends. I just prefer bare wire.
That's really not the main issue, though...the main issue is the binding posts themselves are getting ragged. The thread on the post is getting worn and the screw-down binder is as well. -
The ones Polk used are generic type binding posts. Instead of using the generic type from Klipsch, you might consider upgrading to Cardas or Vampire. You might also consider using high quality banana plugs. You won't have the problems you have now with the threads wearing out and you'll have a better connection.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Has anyone here replaced a set of binding posts on Polk RTA 12's before? If so, is there a specific replacement part that has to be installed, or will any regular set of replacement binding posts fit? I ask because I am replacing the binding posts on a pair of Klipsch Forte speakers that I have, and I ordered a few additional pairs of the OEM Klipsch binding posts as backups. They haven't yet arrived, but I'm wondering if I can use them on my Polk RTA 12's once they do. I think its about time to replace the binding posts on my Polks...they're getting a bit worn, plus they have that really small gap in the middle of the post that is too small to thread through 12- or 10-gauge wire.
Anyhow, does anyone have any insight into what kind of posts are needed or will work for the RTA 12's?
Thanks in advance.
these: http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgg.htm
What I like about these is that they're billet copper with a direct gold plating, and they're heavy duty!
I got the short version, though the long may have worked a little better. I rewired the speakers with OCC copper wire from VH audio and soldered them directly to the posts, thus eliminating those cheesy clips.
I also rebuilt the crossovers, but that's another story.
Good luck!
Fred"Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer -
Thanks, everyone. Yeah, I use banana plugs too, prefer them to the pins actually (I moved away from the pins pretty quickly). But what I prefer above all is bare wire. Especially when I know I'm not going to be switching between speakers/components often. I know, I know...stickler.
Anyhow, those are some nice binding posts from Cardas and Vampire. Since they'll fit, I think I'll probably stick with the generic ones I have coming in the mail for now. But if I eventually do some serious upgrading of the speakers, I'll probably go for those nicer posts from Cardas or Vampire. -
Sorry to bring up an old thread that I started, but I'm just getting around to replacing the old, original binding posts on my RTA 12's with some nice new binding posts that I got.
Anyhow...I'm having an issue: for the life of me, I cannot remove the terminal cups!!! I've unscrewed the four screws that bind the cups to the cabinet, but no amount of pulling on the cup will pry it loose afterwards. It's almost like they are glued to the cabinet or something.
Has anyone ever removed the terminal cups on their RTA 12's before? If so, any advice/tricks? Thanks in advance! -
I removed 'em on my RTA 12C's. They're probably just kind of stuck on there from age. You can remove the Passive Radiator - that way you'll be able to push them out from the inside. Or get a dull flat blade like a butter knife and work it around the edges, which is what I did. Should pop off."Science is suppose to explain observations not dismiss them as impossible" - Norm on AA; 2.3TL's w/sonicaps/mills/jantzen inductors, Gimpod's boards, Lg Solen SDA inductors, RD-0198's, MW's dynamatted, Armaflex speaker gaskets, H-nuts, brass spikes, Cardas CCGR BP's, upgraded IC Cable, Black Hole Damping Sheet strips, interior of cabinets sealed with Loctite Power Grab, AI-1 interface with 1000VA A-L transformer
