LSiC crossover update

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JimAckley
JimAckley Posts: 1,138
edited March 2011 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
Apparently the newer LSiC xovers have an additional inductor for the LF driver. Mine was created back in '01 and does not have this inductor. Unless someone tells me otherwise, I'm just going to continue my cap/resistor upgrade with the current setup.
- Computer Rig -
YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

- Main Rig -
Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

- Currently In Progress -
Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
Post edited by JimAckley on

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  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited March 2011
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    Is this a question or a statement? What does "gs" mean?
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited March 2011
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    Is this a question or a statement? What does "gs" mean?

    It's a bit of both. Should I be out looking for another inductor, or leave it?

    It means I'm using my iPhone and accidentally hit submit while I was walking into the next room :tongue:
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited March 2011
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    For clarification sake, click here for the schematic. The revision record indicates a second inductor being added, labeled as "L4".
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited March 2011
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    According to the revision in the schematic the single coil used originally was a 9.0mh unit.So you should not add another 4 mh(The two 4.0mh coils in series amount to 8.0mh).Since the lower value of total inductance in rev.B will allow the dedicated bass only driver to operate further up into the upper bass/lower midrange,I assume Polk engineering felt this enchanced the speakers performance.
  • JimAckley
    JimAckley Posts: 1,138
    edited March 2011
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    I hardly ever see the bass driver do anything, so I will consider replacing that inductor for the sake of that driver actually being productive. I actually took the time to take it out of the speaker the other day and test it to make sure it wasn't blown or disconnected.

    Also, I noticed something strange as I was doing this tonight. On my board, there's nothing in the C1 location, and then the schematic's C1 item is in the board's C2 location, schem's C2 is in the board's C3, etc. I suppose they made a last minute change before production... My LSiC was made right near the beginning of the LSi run, so it wouldn't surprise me.

    Another thing I noticed is that the traces on my boards have had NO issues with coming loose and coming up. I remember seeing a handful of people talk about that prior to me taking on this project. I haven't even seen the slightest hint of them coming up, and that's not just on my LSiC but my LSi25 boards too. They're both as solid as a brick shithouse.

    As of right now, the only thing I've got left is to receive and install my PartsExpress.com order, which has my Dayton 60uf and Solen 130uf caps.

    I'm already starting the break-in process too. The LSi25 boards have been running for 24 hours now, and the LSiC board has been running for about 1 hour. I have my receiver set to Ext. Stereo, which is a 7-channel stereo mode, and set the balance to the fronts to decrease the output from my rears since their output isn't all that necessary while I'm gone. I have the volume at a moderate level, playing classical music, since it's got a great deal of high frequency content to it.

    I can EASILY hear the difference between the new and old crossover equipment, and I'm not even using the higher-end components that I'd initially desired to use. They have so much more clarity it's baffeling. I just wish my LF driver components would get here already so I can finish it up!
    - Computer Rig -
    YAΘIN MS-20L, polkaudio RT5

    - Main Rig -
    Pioneer SC-37, Overnight Sensations, Samsung 52" LCD

    - Currently In Progress -
    Curt Campbell's Uluwatu LCR, LMS Ultra Gjallarhorn, JBL W15GTi stereo subs, 2.1 entertainment system for the gf
  • FTGV
    FTGV Posts: 3,649
    edited March 2011
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    JimAckley wrote: »
    I hardly ever see the bass driver do anything, so I will consider replacing that inductor for the sake of that driver actually being productive.
    It's highly unlikely that the inductor is faulty,I'll suggest a couple reasons for the woofers apparent lack of output.

    1)While some soundtracks do contan some deep bass in the center channel most of the conent is dialog which will not require large excursions from the woofers.

    2)If you are operating it with the typical 80hz high pass filter the bass information from the center ch. will be routed to the sub.

    3)Since both the bass and midbass drivers are operating in parallel at low frequencies the displacement required by each is reduced by 50%.

    For testing purposes to confirm that the woofers operational you might connect it to either the left or right speaker outputs and feed it a signal with some deep bass.
    IMO you would be wasting money replacing that inductor.(9.0 mh according to the schem.)
  • praedet
    praedet Posts: 314
    edited March 2011
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    The reason for the change was that the original set-up had the magnetic field created by the inductor bending the photons on a picture tube TV...

    I experienced this w/ an upgraded x-over due to the better/larger/different placement of the woofer inductor. So, my x-over is now external....
    HT: Ninja Master LSi9s, Ninja Master LSiC, Slightly Modded LSiFXs, Modded LSi7s, Outlaw LFM-1 EX and Polk PSW125
    Outlaw 970 Preamp, Outlaw 7700 Amp, Velodyne SMS-1, Oppo BDP-83,
    2 APC H-15s and a Panamax 5400 for good measure ;)
    Stereo: DIY Alix Music Server, DODD Audio Battery Tube Buffer, Modded DAC-60 and MF V-Link (for now), DIY Silver ICs, Battery Powered Class D SDS-254 Amp, and GR-Research N2X Speakers