LS90 Crossover Mod
adam2434
Posts: 995
I was thinking that it might be approaching the time to refresh/upgrade the crossovers in my LS90s, given that they're pushing 18 years old or so.
Looking at the attached schematics, I was surprised to see only 1 capacitor and 1 resistor in the network (the rest of the parts are inductors).
There are 2 versions of the crossover. The newer one specifies a 10uf mylar cap. The older one specifies a 10uf electro.
I don't know which version I have - will have to remove the crossover to determine that.
If I have the newer version with the mylar cap, replacing the cap would be less of a refresh and more of an upgrade. In other words, the mylar cap's value should not change over time, whereas electros can drift over time.
If I have the older version with the electro cap, there could be more of a "need" to replace because of age.
In addition to the cap, I guess the resistor would be the only other part to consider replacing. I would leave the inductors alone.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
Looking at the attached schematics, I was surprised to see only 1 capacitor and 1 resistor in the network (the rest of the parts are inductors).
There are 2 versions of the crossover. The newer one specifies a 10uf mylar cap. The older one specifies a 10uf electro.
I don't know which version I have - will have to remove the crossover to determine that.
If I have the newer version with the mylar cap, replacing the cap would be less of a refresh and more of an upgrade. In other words, the mylar cap's value should not change over time, whereas electros can drift over time.
If I have the older version with the electro cap, there could be more of a "need" to replace because of age.
In addition to the cap, I guess the resistor would be the only other part to consider replacing. I would leave the inductors alone.
Any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5.
Post edited by adam2434 on
Comments
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Your other option would be to plan a road trip to Oklahoma and sell those LS90's to me.:biggrin:Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL
Parasound Halo A21
Parasound Halo P3
Home theater
Polk LSiM 707, 706c, 703, 705
Polk Blackstone TL3 for height
SVS PB12-ISD Sub
Denon AVR-X6400h
Parasound Halo A51
LG OLED65B7A
Sony UBPX800
Logitech Harmony Elite
PC LSiM 703
Spare LSIM 702 and 706c
Home Theater #2
Polk Audio LS70, CS350LS, LSF/X, S4
Onkyo TX-NR808 -
Schematics attached.5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5. -
Your other option would be to plan a road trip to Oklahoma and sell those LS90's to me.:biggrin:
Haha, I really don't see myself parting with them. :biggrin:5.1 and 2.0 ch Basement Media Room: Outlaw 975/Emotiva DC-1/Rotel RB-1582 MKII/Rotel RB-1552/Audiosource Amp 3/Polk LS90, CS400i, FX500i/Outlaw X-12, LFM-1/JVD DLA-HD250/Da-Lite 100" HCCV/Sony ES BDP/Sonos Connect. DC-1/RB-1582 MKII/Sonos Connect also feed Polk 7C in garage or Dayton IO655 on patio.
2.1 ch Basement Gym: Denon AVR-2807/Klipsch Forte I or NHT SB2/JBL SUB 550P x 2/Chromecast Audio.
2.0 ch Living Room: Rotel RX-1052/Emotiva DC-1/Klipsch RF-7 III/Sony ES BDP/LG 65" LED.
2.0 ch Semi-portable: Klipsch Powergate/NHT SB3/Chromecast Audio.
Kitchen: Sonos Play5. -
Haha, I really don't see myself parting with them. :biggrin:
Thats how I feel about my LS70's. I have been looking for a pair of 90's close by for a while, but no luck so far. As you can see, I am updating my 70's and it looks like a piece of cake.
When I get my parts and begin my update, it will be the first time I have ever taken the fronts off of them. I bought them new in the early 90's.Polk Audio SDA SRS 2.3TL
Parasound Halo A21
Parasound Halo P3
Home theater
Polk LSiM 707, 706c, 703, 705
Polk Blackstone TL3 for height
SVS PB12-ISD Sub
Denon AVR-X6400h
Parasound Halo A51
LG OLED65B7A
Sony UBPX800
Logitech Harmony Elite
PC LSiM 703
Spare LSIM 702 and 706c
Home Theater #2
Polk Audio LS70, CS350LS, LSF/X, S4
Onkyo TX-NR808 -
Doesn't matter whether is poly or electro, replace the cap with a film cap or you're wasting your time. Soniccraft stocks a 10 mf sonicap. Biggest challenge will be figuring out how to place it. If you're not comfortable, there are several people on the board that rebuild xovers for people. I've done my LS50s and CRS+, but I'm not sure I'm ready to start doing it for other people yet.Turntable: Empire 208
Arm: Rega 300
Cart: Shelter 501 III
Phono Pre: Aural Thrills
Digital: Pioneer DV-79ai
Pre: Conrad Johnson ET3 SE
Amp: Conrad Johnson Evolution 2000
Cables: Cardas Neutral Reference
Speakers: SDA 2.3TL, heavily modified