Onkyo receiver with Rti-A5 speakers

alkit
alkit Posts: 9
edited March 2011 in Speakers
Hi,

My setup is as follows:
Fronts: Polk Audio Rti-A5
Center: Polk Audio Csi-A6
Surrounds: Polk Audio Rti-A1
Subs: Jamo Sub300 x2
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR708

I just recently got all the above when I upgraded my home cinema. I use my setup mainly for HT use.

I have already run the Audyssey calibration on my receiver.

I find that the high notes (such as hissing and female voices) sound a bit "bright".

I've read on a few posts that "bright" speakers are better for HT, and that's why I went with the Rti-A series. But in truth, I find the brightness to be a bit irritating. Surely "warm" or "neutral" speakers would sound better, even for HT? How can brightness be a good thing?

Could it be that the receiver is the wrong match for these speakers? Will the brightness disappear as I use the speakers more (burn in)?

Thanks for the help!
Fronts: Polk Audio Rti-A5
Center: Polk Audio Csi-A6
Surrounds: Polk Audio Rti-A1
Subs: Jamo Sub300 x2
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR708
Post edited by alkit on

Comments

  • alienwatcher
    alienwatcher Posts: 18
    edited February 2011
    The A5s are pretty "bright". I had mine running directly off my Yamaha 663 for a long while and the sound was definitely in your face. This is kind of what I wanted when I bought them as I was hoping to get speakers that would allow me to hear everything even at lower volumes. While there was a definite improvement after the speakers broke in and later when I added an HK amp, they still sound "bright" to some. I had a buddy over recently who swears by Klipsch and he noticed it too. He attributed that characteristic as a selling point of the Rti's and many Klipsch speakers as "home theater" speakers (hearing all the detail). While I really, really like how mine sound, they are different at first. Try different tweaks and changes and see what works best for you. If you're into modding your speakers, I'm sure new caps/etc can be purchased online. Good luck!
    AUDIO - Fronts: Polk Audio RTI A9's | Center: Polk Audio CSI A6 | Sides: Polk Audio FXi A4's | Sub: HSU STF-1 | Receiver: Yamaha RX-V663 w/ AQ Type-4s | Amp: Rain MM-6 (300W x3)| Power: Panamax M5300-PM

    VIDEO - Epson Powerlite 8350 Projector on Elite Electric100H Screen | Panasonic TH-42PX60U | Panasonic DMP-BD35 | Toshiba HD-A2
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 33,019
    edited February 2011
    You could also try a warmer sounding speaker cable. Kimber 4tc or 8tc come to mind. What are you useing on them now ?
    Also tweek the settings a bit in the receivers menu, the auto calibration sometimes doesn't get it right, or may not be to your taste.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • alienwatcher
    alienwatcher Posts: 18
    edited February 2011
    tonyb wrote: »
    You could also try a warmer sounding speaker cable. Kimber 4tc or 8tc come to mind. What are you useing on them now ?
    Also tweek the settings a bit in the receivers menu, the auto calibration sometimes doesn't get it right, or may not be to your taste.

    tonyb's right. I don't want to get into a cable debate here, but switching away from Monster cables made a huge difference. Also, my Yamaha had a "Natural" (high midrange rolloff) EQ setting. I tried that and liked it much better than Flat with the A5's. Finally, this may not change your mind about the speakers being bright, but get rid of those metal jumpers! Speakers sound much better without them in my experience.
    AUDIO - Fronts: Polk Audio RTI A9's | Center: Polk Audio CSI A6 | Sides: Polk Audio FXi A4's | Sub: HSU STF-1 | Receiver: Yamaha RX-V663 w/ AQ Type-4s | Amp: Rain MM-6 (300W x3)| Power: Panamax M5300-PM

    VIDEO - Epson Powerlite 8350 Projector on Elite Electric100H Screen | Panasonic TH-42PX60U | Panasonic DMP-BD35 | Toshiba HD-A2
  • abc5
    abc5 Posts: 32
    edited March 2011
    what metal jumpers?
  • jbooker82
    jbooker82 Posts: 1,627
    edited March 2011
    tonyb's right. I don't want to get into a cable debate here, but switching away from Monster cables made a huge difference. Also, my Yamaha had a "Natural" (high midrange rolloff) EQ setting. I tried that and liked it much better than Flat with the A5's. Finally, this may not change your mind about the speakers being bright, but get rid of those metal jumpers! Speakers sound much better without them in my experience.

    What do you recomend replacing the jumpers with? Your talking about the metal straps that you remove for bi amping right?
    AVR: Onkyo Tx-NR808
    Amplifier: Carver A-753x 250 watts x 3
    Fronts: Polk RTI A7 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Center: CSI A4 (modded by Trey VR3)
    Rear: FXI A4
    Sub: Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    TV: LG Infinia 50PX950 3D
    Speaker Cable: AudioQuest Type 8
    IC: AudioQuest Black Mamba II
  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited March 2011
    jbooker82 wrote: »
    What do you recomend replacing the jumpers with? Your talking about the metal straps that you remove for bi amping right?
    Speaker wire between the top and bottom posts...old school.

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • Cmiller
    Cmiller Posts: 108
    edited March 2011
    Ron Temple wrote: »
    Speaker wire between the top and bottom posts...old school.

    Why would you do that? whats the difference in using the "jumpers" that do the samething?
    Samsung PN50B550 Plasma
    Pioneer Elite SC-25
    Pioneer Elite BDP-23FD
    Adcom 7500 Amp-Panamax 4300 Conditioner
    Polk RTi10's Fronts
    Polk Csi A6 Center-Polk M60s rear Surrounds
    Klipsch Synergy Sub-10 X2
    Klipsch Synergy S-10 Premium back surround
  • pdxfj
    pdxfj Posts: 376
    edited March 2011
    If things are sounding a bit "bright" in movies, you can try several things to suit your taste.

    Turn on Dynamic EQ
    With Dynamic EQ on set Dynamic Volume to "light"
    Also there is a "Re-EQ" setting for TrueHD and DTS-MA which will roll the high end off a little and tame some of the "brightness".

    Check to make sure "late night" is turned "off". This setting bugs the hell out of me since it turns it self back to "auto".

    Lastly try the different "THX" modes. THX also has it's own "Re-EQ" setting, but no access to any of the Audyssey Dynamic EQ/Volume options.

    I find that some soundtracks sound better with just a direct decode an no additional EQ settings, some sound better with Dynamic EQ and others in THX Cinema.

    My suggestions are coming from my 608 which only has Audyssey 2EQ so your options might be a bit different.
  • kuntasensei
    kuntasensei Posts: 3,263
    edited March 2011
    Some of the harshness will go away as the speakers are broken in, but I do have a few questions:

    1) When you ran Audyssey, did you use a tripod for the mic?
    2) Did you do all available mic positions?
    3) After Audyssey, what crossover settings did the Onkyo end up with?
    Equipment list:
    Onkyo TX-NR3010 9.2 AVR
    Emotiva XPA-3 amp
    Polk RTi70 mains, CSi40 center, RTi38 surrounds, RTi28 rears and heights
    SVS 20-39CS+ subwoofer powered by Crown XLS1500
    Oppo BDP-93 Blu-ray player
    DarbeeVision DVP5000 video processor
    Epson 8500UB 1080p projector
    Elite Screens Sable 120" CineWhite screen
  • Ron Temple
    Ron Temple Posts: 3,212
    edited March 2011
    Cmiller wrote: »
    Why would you do that? whats the difference in using the "jumpers" that do the samething?
    The brass jumper is a suspect conductor. I've used them and I've used wire. You may not hear a difference and you might. I can't say that I've checked. When I say old school, I mean that's how Polk did it themselves before they came up with the brass jumpers. The reason I've used wire is that I bought speakers that had missing jumpers.

    Combo rig:

    Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
    SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
    PB13Ultra RO
    BW Silvers
    Oppo BDP-83SE
  • MLZ
    MLZ Posts: 214
    edited March 2011
    Ron Temple wrote: »
    The brass jumper is a suspect conductor. I've used them and I've used wire. You may not hear a difference and you might. I can't say that I've checked. When I say old school, I mean that's how Polk did it themselves before they came up with the brass jumpers. The reason I've used wire is that I bought speakers that had missing jumpers.

    Or, like I have done, you can bi-wire using something reasonably priced like Canare 4s11 speaker cable ($1.35/ foot at Bluejeans) . I didn't hear any difference but like the cables and the look :cool: after I covered them with Techflex and heat shrink.