Are the mm shallows right for my application?

eggyhustles

My mom just got a new accord coupe and the stock system absolutely blows. I want to put something small in since the majority of the time, i'm the one driving her around. I added an ms8 thinking that would be a quick solution, but it didn't help much. Efficiency is key here since electrical upgrades are expensive. I've already done the big 3 in 1/0 and put a huge xspower batt upfront. For the front stage, I'll be running

b&c 6ndl38 mids http://www.usspeaker.com/B&C-6NDL38-1.htm

& b&c de500 horns on image dynamics horn bodies. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-608

The mids are 92db @ 1w efficient and the horns are 108db so they should perform well on minimal power. The stock alternator is 160amps, so i'm looking for 2 amps that'll pull up to 100amps max. The car is a lease so buying a expensive alternator isn't an option at this point.

For subs i'm leaning toward 2 8" mm shallows or possible the 10's


She does a lot of shopping so she needs as much trunk space as possible for groceries and other stuff. Would 2 of the mm's work? I can either build a false floor for them or 2 fiberglass enclosures to fit in the corner pockets. If not, would the sr's work IB? Which would be more efficient? 2 8's, 2 10's sealed or 1 12 IB?

JimAckley

I don't know much about the B&C equipment, so I can't comment there.

I always liked the efficiency and minimal loss of space/convenience by having them in the corner pockets, so if you can, I'd go for two 10s in the corners. It will give you plenty of efficiency. Doing an IB 12" generally means you're going to have to modify and reinforce the rear deck, which can be a pain in the ****. I was never a fan of false floors because you generally lose your spare tire as a result, which can suck big time if you ever get a flat.

Just my 2 cents...

eggyhustles

JimAckley wrote: »

I don't know much about the B&C equipment, so I can't comment there.

I always liked the efficiency and minimal loss of space/convenience by having them in the corner pockets, so if you can, I'd go for two 10s in the corners. It will give you plenty of efficiency. Doing an IB 12" generally means you're going to have to modify and reinforce the rear deck, which can be a pain in the ****. I was never a fan of false floors because you generally lose your spare tire as a result, which can suck big time if you ever get a flat.

Just my 2 cents...

I was thinking of using the SR in the skipass. What about amps?

DSkip wrote: »

Those MM's are shallow subs, especially when compared to the SR. The housing on the SR sub is massive and about 9" deep IIRC. If she is wanting to save space, I'd definitely shop the MM line and probably along the single 12" line, but it depends on the contours of the trunk. If it is like my parent's 2008 Accord coupe, you should easily be able to fit a 12" in a corner behind the wheel well with minimal usable space lost.

Same trunk. The corner pockets are pretty deep. Would the 8's work ported? i noticed polk didn't add any enclosure requirements for a ported alignment. Sealed the 8's want .35 so i would ported(if possible) would be around .80? I could easily squeeze that in the corner with a small aero.

Vital

So u're doing big 3, XS, fiberglass/false floor/sub/amps in your mother's car?? LOL

eggyhustles

Yeah... I drive her around majority of the time, so i need tunes lol

JimAckley

IMO, every single car in the world should have the Big 3 done.

As far as amperage goes, I wouldn't worry too much about draw since you've got a 160-amp alt. That will be plenty to supply enough power to fill up that car.

Personally, I like the shallows in the corners over the skipass sub. It's less intrusive and won't restrict the use of the skipass, which should be left open (I'm sure you already knew that though ). Also I would snag some baffles which will help separate any speakers in your rear deck from the subs, so they aren't driven to levels of excursion they weren't designed for. That typically won't be an issue as long as your skipass is open, but sometimes you'll have to close that to make room for people or things in the back seat.

I'd say around 750-800w RMS of subwoofer and a 75-100x4 amplifier should fit within your amperage limitations without any problems while still meeting the volumes you'll want.

Above all, dynamat the crap outta your car. At a bare minimum, shoot for the trunklid, and the body areas directly closest to wherever you mount your subwoofer(s). If you can, mat the whole trunk. If you've got extra mat and/or funding, the next minimum I'd shoot for is on the door panel behind your speakers, if not the whole door. Then I suppose the rest is all kinda at an as-funding-comes-along basis.

eggyhustles

Forgot to add that most of the deadening has been done already. Doors are fully sealed and most of the trunk is done. I'm waiting to get the subs in since that'll point out troubled areas. I found a jl 600/4 local on the cheapz so i'll be using that for the front stage. I'm not big on JL since most of their stuff is overpriced to hell, but the amp is sort of small and does a legit 150 x 4 @ 8 ohms which should be more than enough for the front stage. I'll also be taking the ms8 out for a audison bit.1. The ms8 tunes for a complete flat response which sort of nullifies the purpose of using pro audio drivers.

So would the mm 10's sealed be better over ported 8's?