Monitor 10b xo upgrade

Jack A
Jack A Posts: 77
edited February 2011 in Vintage Speakers
Hi Club Polk Friends. Dose anyone know how to start the crossover upgrade in Monitor 10b speaker. Is it best to remove all 4 speakers from the front and the back binding post plate to replace the binding posts? Having never done this before I need some help.
Jack A
Clarajack
Post edited by Jack A on

Comments

  • intangible
    intangible Posts: 262
    edited February 2011
    I haven't done a pair of 10bs, but I don't imagine it's much different from the 10IIs I have.

    Take out the passive radiator (the big one at the bottom), and you should be looking straight at the crossover. You will need to cut the wires leading to the drivers and large inductor if they are hardwired to the board (which would be my guess) unless you feel like soldering a lot inside the cabinet. I recommend using a pair of diagonal cutters to avoid shortening the leads too much.

    The binding posts are not connected directly to the speakers but rather go through the PCB. If you want to replace them, just clip the leads right next to the post.
  • quadzilla
    quadzilla Posts: 1,543
    edited February 2011
    No no no no.... You can remove the wires from the drivers via the quick release clips. There's absolutely no reason to cut them. Just make sure you mark them before you unhook them.

    Schematics are also available in this very forum in the sticky threads called "schematics".
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited February 2011
    intangible wrote: »
    I haven't done a pair of 10bs, but I don't imagine it's much different from the 10IIs I have.

    Take out the passive radiator (the big one at the bottom), and you should be looking straight at the crossover. You will need to cut the wires leading to the drivers and large inductor if they are hardwired to the board (which would be my guess) unless you feel like soldering a lot inside the cabinet. I recommend using a pair of diagonal cutters to avoid shortening the leads too much.

    The binding posts are not connected directly to the speakers but rather go through the PCB. If you want to replace them, just clip the leads right next to the post.

    NO,,,,,,,NO,,,,,,,NO leave the inductors alone. You don't ahve to pull any drivers at all and for god's sake don't mess with the inductors. Pull the terminal cup and don't try to do this with the cup in place

    To the OP,

    Did you bother to read what I already suggested at least twice in two other threads you have posted in????????

    I did a pair of 5B's and documented with photo's and a description. That would be how to do it. If you can't follow that thread, then have someone else do it for you.

    How many times are you going to ask the same vague question????

    If you have a specific question, ask away.

    FWIW, there are many threads outlining what/how to do this. I am not going to go thru it all again when the info is out there..........do a little digging and you will find everything you need.

    If it's beyond your skill set, ben62602 (or whatever his screename is) will do them for you.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited February 2011
    You need to pull the terminal cup
    you need to detach the driver wires (be sure to label them if you think you won't remember)
    Mock up how the new (larger) parts are going to fit.
    Desolder the caps and resistor's (with the proper tool) one piece at a time.
    Install, solder new caps and resistors in correct spots (doing piece one at a time)

    number one tip, do (1) x-over at a time so if you eff up on something you have an unmolested x-over to look at.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • intangible
    intangible Posts: 262
    edited February 2011
    You want to pull the drivers anyway to check the gaskets, dynamat them, and tighten the screws, so I find going in through the passive preferable.
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited February 2011
    intangible wrote: »
    You want to pull the drivers anyway to check the gaskets, dynamat them, and tighten the screws, so I find going in through the passive preferable.

    Yes doing the gaskets and dynamat is good, I'm with you there. He didn't ask about that so I didn't address it.

    I would NEVER replace x-over parts thru the passive unless the terminal cup was irremovable. It's 100 times easier to work on the x-over out of the cabinet.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • intangible
    intangible Posts: 262
    edited February 2011
    I'll keep that in mind the next time I do a pair. Appreciate the tip.
  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited February 2011
    quadzilla wrote: »
    No no no no.... You can remove the wires from the drivers via the quick release clips. There's absolutely no reason to cut them. Just make sure you mark them before you unhook them.

    Schematics are also available in this very forum in the sticky threads called "schematics".
    Thank you for your reply. I did get the 10b Monitor schematic from Sticky threads.
    Jack A
    Clarajack
  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited February 2011
    heiney9 wrote: »
    You need to pull the terminal cup
    you need to detach the driver wires (be sure to label them if you think you won't remember)
    Mock up how the new (larger) parts are going to fit.
    Desolder the caps and resistor's (with the proper tool) one piece at a time.
    Install, solder new caps and resistors in correct spots (doing piece one at a time)

    number one tip, do (1) x-over at a time so if you eff up on something you have an unmolested x-over to look at.

    H9

    Thanks H9, I'm learning a lot about this XO upgrade. I ordered all my parts from Sonic Craft in AK for both speakers. 2 Mills MRA-12 2.5 ohms,2 Mills MRA-12 2.7,4 Sonicap 12uF 200VDC,2 Sonicap 34uF 200VDC and 2 sets Vampire BPHEX binding posts.
    Jack A
    Clarajack
  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited February 2011
    heiney9 wrote: »
    NO,,,,,,,NO,,,,,,,NO leave the inductors alone. You don't ahve to pull any drivers at all and for god's sake don't mess with the inductors. Pull the terminal cup and don't try to do this with the cup in place

    To the OP,

    Did you bother to read what I already suggested at least twice in two other threads you have posted in????????

    I did a pair of 5B's and documented with photo's and a description. That would be how to do it. If you can't follow that thread, then have someone else do it for you.

    How many times are you going to ask the same vague question????

    If you have a specific question, ask away.

    FWIW, there are many threads outlining what/how to do this. I am not going to go thru it all again when the info is out there..........do a little digging and you will find everything you need.

    If it's beyond your skill set, ben62602 (or whatever his screename is) will do them for you.

    H9
    Hi H9, What are the inductors? Do I only open up the terminal cup to access the crossover for the upgrade?
    Jack A
    Clarajack
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited February 2011
    Jack A wrote: »
    Hi H9, What are the inductors? Do I only open up the terminal cup to access the crossover for the upgrade?
    Jack A

    Dude,

    If this thread doesn't help you then you shouldn't be doing this on your own.

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51420&highlight=5b*

    LOOK, READ this thread and then if you have specific questions maybe I can help beyond what is posted in the thread.

    Your 10B's has a few more parts otherwise the process is very, very similar.

    Good luck

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,165
    edited February 2011
    There are (2) inductors. One is on the PCB it is the thing that has copper wire wrapped around it. The other is actually copper wire wrapped around the terminal cup. These should be left alone.

    I cannot stress enough to replace one part at a time or you will forget what goes where. My thread on the 5B's pretty much lays it out.

    H9
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
  • Jack A
    Jack A Posts: 77
    edited February 2011
    Thanks H9, I got it.
    Jack
    Clarajack
  • DON73
    DON73 Posts: 516
    edited February 2011
    Dang I was going to ask a question but H9 made me forget what it was or not want to!
    TO ERR IS HUMAN. TO FORGIVE IS CANINE.