Does higher watts per channel Improve Sound Quality?
Gonzonator
Posts: 18
I recently purchased a pair of Energy exl 25's rated at 15-150 watts for my second system in my sun room. I had an old Harmon Kardon AVR10 laying around so I decided to try and use this with the Energys for two channel listening. The AVR10 only puts out 35 wpc so I was skeptical about running the speakers on such a low powered amp. To my surprise the speakers sounded great, I was blown away by the quality of sound the Energy's produce for a smaller speaker. I have heard that under powering speakers is a sure way to damage them, should I try and find a stronger amp? If I can get away with my current amp without damaging them, will buying a second hand amp with a higher wpc improve the sound quality? I have seen a Marantz 5600 for sale rated at 90 wpc for $90, would this be worth it? Thanks for any input
Post edited by Gonzonator on
Comments
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Higher Watts ≠ Better Sound Quality"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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Is it better to run your speakers with some head room? I just feel that if I was to push the speakers with my current set up I might damage them.
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i think that having more power allows you to play it louder before it gets distorted. What i mean is...... it's better to have too much power and not use it than have not enough and go to 10 on the dial.50" samsung dlp
receiver... pioneer elite vsx72txv
front... polk tsi400's
rear surrounds... polk tsi100's
center... polk csi3
subs... psw150..... 2 of them.
surrounds.....polk owm3's -
I always see speakers having rating such as 15-150 watts, but I always thought it was best to run them somewhere in the middle of that spectrum. With this old Harmon Kardon I only have to put the volume up a quarter of the way to reach a pretty loud listening level. I never thought a amp putting out 35 wpc could be efficient. I guess I'm just used to having amps with high wpc ratings and never gave the lower ones a shot.
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Higher sound quality can really only come from lower THD (total harmonic distortion). Higher wattage has more to do with power, loudness, etc. Loudness does not equal sound quality, although your average consumer seems to think otherwise.Polk Audio RTi A3 (mains)
Polk Audio CSi A4 (center)
Polk Audio RC60i (rears)
BIC Acoustech PL-200 (sub)
Denon AVR-590 (receiver)
Samsung LN46B550 (LCD)
Sharp BD HP22U (Blu-ray player) -
ShadowTowel wrote: »Higher sound quality can really only come from lower THD (total harmonic distortion). Higher wattage has more to do with power, loudness, etc. Loudness does not equal sound quality, although your average consumer seems to think otherwise.
Wrong. THD does not tell you what the amp will sound like.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Wrong. THD does not tell you what the amp will sound like.
Okay... But if your speakers have high THD, your amplification of that isn't going to improve sound quality. That is what I mean. Sound quality and power are different worlds. As far as I know.Polk Audio RTi A3 (mains)
Polk Audio CSi A4 (center)
Polk Audio RC60i (rears)
BIC Acoustech PL-200 (sub)
Denon AVR-590 (receiver)
Samsung LN46B550 (LCD)
Sharp BD HP22U (Blu-ray player) -
higher current > higher watts. But not all manufacturers display peak current on their amps, so you may have to dig a bit.ALL BOXED UP for a while until I save up for a new place
Home Theater:
KEF Q900s / MIT Shotgun S3 / MIT CVT2 ICs | KEF Q600C | Polk FXi5 | BJC Wire | Signal / AQ ICs | Shunyata / Pangea PCs | Pioneer Elite SC 57 | Parasound NC2100 Pre | NAD M25 | Marantz SA8001 | Schiit Gungnir DAC | SB Touch
2 Channel:
Polk LSi9 (xo mods), Polk DSW MicroPro 2000 sub | NAD c375BEE | W4S DAC1 | SB Touch | Marantz SA-8001 | MIT AVt 2 | Kimber Hero / AQ / Signal ICs | Shunyata / Signal PCs -
So do you guys think you would make the switch for $90 for the Marantz, I really didn't want to invest much into a second system, but maybe for only $90 it would be worth it? The HK seems to be performing well, bu then again I haven't pushed it hard. I keep thinking that if I bought the Marantz then I would have no worries.
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Most amps have a different sound to them. For that price you could try it and flip it if it doesn't have the sound you wanted.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Some will say you only need 30W/ch for good sound, albeit at a moderate SPL, but I say falderal, balderdash, and poppycock. You need at least 35W/ch, and preferably 1000W/ch. However, 800W/ch into 4 ohms is a good start.Lumin X1 file player, Westminster Labs interconnect cable
Sony XA-5400ES SACD; Pass XP-22 pre; X600.5 amps
Magico S5 MKII Mcast Rose speakers; SPOD spikes
Shunyata Triton v3/Typhon QR on source, Denali 2000 (2) on amps
Shunyata Sigma XLR analog ICs, Sigma speaker cables
Shunyata Sigma HC (2), Sigma Analog, Sigma Digital, Z Anaconda (3) power cables
Mapleshade Samson V.3 four shelf solid maple rack, Micropoint brass footers
Three 20 amp circuits. -
Yes, no, and maybe
Every watt produced has to pass throught the first 3 that you really use. Quality matter more.VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels -
Gonzonator wrote: »I have heard that under powering speakers is a sure way to damage them
The reason people say that is because with an 'underpowered' amp, you may feel the need to push the amp farther than it's capable of to obtain the volume you desire. This can cause the amp to clip.
Depending on how far you push it this can be very hard on speakers, and unpleasant to listen to.
If you don't push the amp that far, and stop increasing the volume before audible clipping occurs, you aren't in any danger of damaging the speakers, and a more powerful amp won't automatically provide any real gains in sound quality. -
Sound QUALITY is mainly dependant on the speakers them selves. Second would be the sorce. Amp design would be a distant third. More power will only give you more headroom. And going from 35 wpc to 70 wpc will only net you a 3 dB gain in volume. Just barely perceptable.Things are more like they are now than they ever will be!
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ShadowTowel wrote: »Okay... But if your speakers have high THD, your amplification of that isn't going to improve sound quality. That is what I mean. Sound quality and power are different worlds. As far as I know.
Not so. Tube amps have a higher THD than SS amps, yet sound so damn good.
To address the OP's question. There is only one absolute in audio, synergy. Either you have it or you don't.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I like your sigs F1!Things are more like they are now than they ever will be!
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My 50 year old Eico tube amp rated at a little better than 35 watts sounds just as good if not better to me than my 375 watt Carver TFM-45 both pushing my SDA-1C's. Not all watts are created equal. I really love the sound of the Carver but most of the power is for headroom in my case. I've never had the volume knob past 12 o'clock while using it but down low it is sooooo smooth punchy and seductive. As is the Eico tube unit. I haven't had it past 12 o'clock either and it's vibrating the whole room. It's all about quality not quantity.SDA-1C (full mods)
Carver TFM-55
NAD 1130 Pre-amp
Rega Planar 3 TT/Shelter 501 MkII
The Clamp
Revox A77 Mk IV Dolby reel to reel
Thorens TD160/Mission 774 arm/Stanton 881S Shibata
Nakamichi CR7 Cassette Deck
Rotel RCD-855 with modified tube output stage
Cambridge Audio DACmagic Plus
ADC Soundshaper 3 EQ
Ben's IC's
Nitty Gritty 1.5FI RCM -
Some will say you only need 30W/ch for good sound, albeit at a moderate SPL, but I say falderal, balderdash, and poppycock. You need at least 35W/ch, and preferably 1000W/ch. However, 800W/ch into 4 ohms is a good start.
Is that statement meant to be a joke??--Gary--
Onkyo Integra M504, Bottlehead Foreplay III, Denon SACD, Thiel CS2.3, NHT VT-2, VT-3 and Evolution T6, Infinity RSIIIa, SDA1C and a few dozen other speakers around the house I change in and out. -
"He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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I just went from 200 watts a channel to 125 and noticed an improvement in sound quality and an actual perceived increase in sound level at similar volumes. Go figure...
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Quality of amplification is paramount to quantity of amplification.
Also---really a discussion on THD?Main Surround -
Epson 8350 Projector/ Elite Screens 120" / Pioneer Elite SC-35 / Sunfire Signature / Focal Chorus 716s / Focal Chorus CC / Polk MC80 / Polk PSW150 sub
Bedroom - Sharp Aquos 70" 650 / Pioneer SC-1222k / Polk RT-55 / Polk CS-250
Den - Rotel RSP-1068 / Threshold CAS-2 / Boston VR-M60 / BDP-05FD -
You say you like what you are hearing, and you're just at 25% in the volume pot. You should be fine then. The only reason to get that $90 amp would be to try something else, but I would say you don't need it._________________________________________________
***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***
2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
SOPAThank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman -
Gonzonator wrote: »To my surprise the speakers sounded great, I was blown away by the quality of sound the Energy's produce for a smaller speaker....I would say you don't need it.
I agree... if you like the sound you hear and the speakers dont clip at the levels you listen to, then it sounds like you really dont need anything different...Living Room 7.1 HT Rig:
M70 | CS2 | M60 | Atrium5 - Surr. | SUB - Emotiva ULTRA12 + Tara Labs sub cable | Pioneer Elite VSX-52 | Parasound HCAs 1000A | Sony BDP-S790 | Belkin PureAV PF60 | MIT Exp2 Wires
Bedroom 5.0 HT Rig (Music/Movies/Gaming) :
LSi9 | LsiC | Lsi/fx | Marantz SR7002 | NAD T955 | Sony BDP-S360 | Belkin PureAV PF30 | AQ Blue Racer II ICs & AQ Type 4 wires | PS3 -
I wish my search ended at $90!!! Congrats, every system and room is different. Now you can invest in more CD's or downloads.
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I wish my search ended at $90, my wife is about to divorce me because of the audio purchases I have made within the last couple years lol. My main set up is where I have invested some real $$, but I just wanted small set up in the sun room for when I'm out back trying to get lost. I figured on buying stuff second hand to save a couple dollars. I bought the energy speakers not knowing what to expect, and it turns out I like them a lot. So I wanted to make sure I wasn't going to blow a speaker with a low powered amp. If it meant that I would have to spend another $100 to get a different amp then that is what I would do. Seems by the opinions here that my set up is ok, so I guess I'll save the cash.
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Sound QUALITY is mainly dependant on the speakers them selves. Second would be the sorce. Amp design would be a distant third. More power will only give you more headroom. And going from 35 wpc to 70 wpc will only net you a 3 dB gain in volume. Just barely perceptable.
Hmm...3db is double the volume right ? just barely perceptable ? -
photocrazy wrote: »Hmm...3db is double the volume right ? just barely perceptable ?
Combo rig:
Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
PB13Ultra RO
BW Silvers
Oppo BDP-83SE -
1db is noticeable and is what the system is based on."He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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For me higher wpc did improve sound quality until I reached the limits of my current speakers.
I could not hear a difference between my 405wpc Sunfire & my 205wpc Parasound on my main RTA-8Ts & 200wpc Outlaw monoblock on my Boston Audio CC speakers. Which told me they were getting all they needed. But my FXis came alive when I added my 5 channel Sunfire.
For me the most important factor is making sure all of my speakers have all the power that they need when they need it, and 200wpc seems to be it at the very least. Now all of this might change if I ever need to buy new speakers.Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2 -
photocrazy wrote: »Hmm...3db is double the volume right ? just barely perceptable ?
There's lots of confusion about this, but just look at what 1 Watt can do at 3-4 meters where many of us sit, and remember, these measurments are for 1 channel. My 50 WPC (it has been modded) tube amp can deliver a clean, ear-bleeding 105db to my Exotech SPL meter at my listening position about 11 feet back.
I rarely listen over 80 db so the FIRST WATT is really what's doing the heavy lifting.
VTL ST50 w/mods / RCA6L6GC / TlfnknECC801S
Conrad Johnson PV-5 w/mods
TT Conrad Johnson Sonographe SG3 Oak / Sumiko LMT / Grado Woodbody Platinum / Sumiko PIB2 / The Clamp
Musical Fidelity A1 CDPro/ Bada DD-22 Tube CDP / Conrad Johnson SD-22 CDP
Tuners w/mods Kenwood KT5020 / Fisher KM60
MF x-DAC V8, HAInfo NG27
Herbies Ti-9 / Vibrapods / MIT Shotgun AC1 IEC's / MIT Shotgun 2 IC's / MIT Shotgun 2 Speaker Cables
PS Audio Cryo / PowerPort Premium Outlets / Exact Power EP15A Conditioner
Walnut SDA 2B TL /Oak SDA SRS II TL (Sonicaps/Mills/Cardas/Custom SDA ICs / Dynamat Extreme / Larry's Rings/ FSB-2 Spikes
NAD SS rigs w/mods
GIK panels