Redoing SDA End Caps/Side Panels
intangible
Posts: 262
I would like to redo the exterior of my SDA 2Bs to match the Monitor line of speakers. This would entail replacing the grill-cloth coated side panels with stained piece of wood as well as replacing the end caps entirely, as three of the four are in poor condition. I've just got a few questions that, hopefully, you can help me with.
What is the best choice of material for replacement side panels? I would like to just use 1/4" plywood, because I have worked with it before, and it would give a wood grain without any additional effort on my part, but I am concerned that it may be too heavy to effectively glue to the speaker.
How are the end caps attached to the speaker cabinet? I would guess that they are just glued on like the side panels, but I don't want to accidentally break something poking around should they happen to be screwed in. What is the best way to get them off without endangering the relatively thin MDF below them?
What is the best choice of material for replacement side panels? I would like to just use 1/4" plywood, because I have worked with it before, and it would give a wood grain without any additional effort on my part, but I am concerned that it may be too heavy to effectively glue to the speaker.
How are the end caps attached to the speaker cabinet? I would guess that they are just glued on like the side panels, but I don't want to accidentally break something poking around should they happen to be screwed in. What is the best way to get them off without endangering the relatively thin MDF below them?
Post edited by intangible on
Comments
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End caps on the tops should be bolted down. Take a midwoofer out and feel up in there. Excuse me, maybe your talking end caps on the sides in the back. Sorry. I don't know how they are attached.
The side panels are 1/4" material to begin with. They were glued on with constuction adhesive so a firm solid 4",5" or 6" putty knife can be used effectively.
Enjoy. I have to do one side of a pair of SDA-SRS2's soon. I'm going to cover the 1/4" luan with cloth and reglue to the side. Veterans have said to lay then on their sides and put weight on all over the panel until the next day. Done.Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Plywood? JHC man, don't use that. Use MFD and apply a real wood veneer.
The tops/bottoms are bolted on. Remove the drivers and PR to gain access.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
SDA 2B's are glued and stapled down, The only two SDA's that I know of that are bolted down are the 1.2/TL's and 2.3/tl;s the only set i'm not sure of is the 3.1's
You will have to pry them off gently, it can be done as i have done so on my 1C's and 2B's..
Enjoy!!!! -
Thanks for the info on the end caps.
You think a veneer would look that much better? I considered it, but it looks significantly more difficult to work with, and would cost a lot more. A piece of decent looking plywood like this (http://bit.ly/f0edtd) plus small cans of stain and sealer comes out to $40-50 cheaper than just the piece of veneer.
Actually, a thought I like better would be to replace the side panels with 1" thick boards that could be tapered in to the grill. The extra overhang would let me tie them in to the end caps to offset the extra weight. This would better match the look of the Monitor series and still be relatively cheap. Any obvious issues with this plan? -
anonymouse wrote: »The original sides are low grade lauan plywood covered in cloth. You will do just fine with 1/4 in ply. No need to use MDF unless you want additional damping on the cabs. IMHO, additional damping is not always a good thing... you have to try it and see if you like it. Unfortunately once you glue it on tight, you are stuck with it.
Yes the side panels are glued and you can get the same material from home depot it is not that expensive. I would avoid using plywood just because it can have splinters. use the 1/4 MDF that was used..
As I stated above is for the wood caps top and bottom..
Just my .02 -
intangible wrote: »Thanks for the info on the end caps.
You think a veneer would look that much better? I considered it, but it looks significantly more difficult to work with, and would cost a lot more. A piece of decent looking plywood like this (http://bit.ly/f0edtd) plus small cans of stain and sealer comes out to $40-50 cheaper than just the piece of veneer.
Actually, a thought I like better would be to replace the side panels with 1" thick boards that could be tapered in to the grill. The extra overhang would let me tie them in to the end caps to offset the extra weight. This would better match the look of the Monitor series and still be relatively cheap. Any obvious issues with this plan?
I used solid OAK on all my SDA's I stayed away from the veneer and they look fantastic!!!:cool:
Sanding,Staining,and Polyurethane...:cool:
I don't see any reason to use 1" thick wood for the sides, but it is your project, Have Fun!!! -
Using 1" side panels lets me use an even 3/4" bevel all the way around (the grill will overhang 1/4" of the side panel). I want to keep the end caps at least 3/4" thick, so that I don't have to drill into the cabinet proper for spikes.
Thanks for the advice guys! -
TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »SDA 2B's are glued and stapled down
Yeah, you're right. I'm slipping. :redface:The original sides are low grade lauan plywood covered in cloth.
Definitely not. They are MDF.You think a veneer would look that much better?
I know it would.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
intangible wrote: »Using 1" side panels lets me use an even 3/4" bevel all the way around (the grill will overhang 1/4" of the side panel). I want to keep the end caps at least 3/4" thick, so that I don't have to drill into the cabinet proper for spikes.
Thanks for the advice guys!
Use 1" thick for your caps. I understand what your trying to do now,but your going to have to redo the grills as well..or did you state that and I missed it?? -
F1nut is the wood guru here and if your going to use veneer then I would follow what he says is best. The man knows is stuff!!!
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Alright, I'll take your word for it that veneer over MDF would be the best looking way to go. For the sake of staying in my price range and comfort zone, however, I think I'm going to try and push forward with stained lumber, which should be a step up from plywood. I'll save my first attempt at applying veneer for something I care less about.
Why would I need to redo the grills? I'm at work right now and can't take a look at the speakers myself. I wouldn't really mind doing new ones, as they could use a recovering anyway, but from memory the grills don't attach in any way to either the end caps or the sides. -
Cause if your going to use 1" on the sides then they will stick out from the grills..
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Right, that's the idea. I'm not explaining myself very well; I think the issue is that the Monitor series cabinets changed over time. Both of my pairs, which I am trying to match, have an exposed bevel around the whole grill, like those in this picture.
http://www.hifiengine.com/files/images/Polk%20Monitor%204%20Speakers%20%2782-85_0.preview.jpg
Thanks again for the help. I will post pictures if they look good enough when I'm finished. -
TOOLFORLIFEFAN wrote: »SDA 2B's are glued and stapled down, The only two SDA's that I know of that are bolted down are the 1.2/TL's and 2.3/tl;s the only set i'm not sure of is the 3.1's
You will have to pry them off gently, it can be done as i have done so on my 1C's and 2B's..
Enjoy!!!!
For the recrod, I can verify that the original SDA-SRS's have bolted-on end caps as well.
(I've been thinking about redoing one set of mine with "Piano Black" end caps and sides, but I have lots of other work to do before I even start thinking about cosmetics though...) -
I'm going to throw this out....they are SDA's and should look like SDA's. If you want all your speakers to match either buy more Monitor's or more SDA's, but don't hack up a perfectly good pair of SDA's.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The SDA part of the speaker would be unchanged; the outer layer would just look a little different. You can sleep soundly knowing no SDAs will be harmed, however, as a set of studio 2s which look 90% like what I want showed up on Craigslist, so this pair is either moving to the bedroom or being sold.
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I'm going to throw this out....they are SDA's and should look like SDA's. If you want all your speakers to match either buy more Monitor's or more SDA's, but don't hack up a perfectly good pair of SDA's.
Can't agree more!! -
TOOLFORLIFEFAN:
I'm thinking about redoing the endcaps on a pair of SDA 1Cs with 1" solid oak (sound familiar?). I would really appreciate it if you could explain in a little more detail how you removed the endcaps without damageing the sides, etc. I'm worried about damaging a nice set of speakers.
Thanks in advance!
PS For some reason I couldn't view your photos on my computer. Bummer!
System 1:Nakamichi PA-7Kenwood Basic C2Polk SDA 1C moddedSystem 2:Dynaco ST-70Polk Monitor 5B modded -
Last time I checked........1/4" plywood was available pre veneered in several species of wood suitable for cabinetry, not sure if that is still the case nowadays. Found it:
http://www.woodnshop.com/Hardwood/WALNUT_PLYWOOD.htm
WARNING- sometimes the veneer is very, very thin, so sand with extreme caution !
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Old thread, but I’m posting to ask the same question.
I have the Polk SDA-2b’s. The sides have cloth stretched over quarter inch material (possibly plywood or hardboard) and affixed with finishing nails along the top and bottom. The sides on my set look good so I don’t plan on messing with them.
I do need to regrill; that won’t be an issue.
My concern is the caps. All 4 end caps are in bad shape and need refinishing. When I recapped the crossover, I looked for fasteners attaching the end caps but could not find any. I’m supposing the end caps are just attached with construction adhesive. Reading the thread above, I was unsure of the conclusion. Can anyone speak from experience as to the best method of removing the top and bottom caps? -
The 2B's are glued and stapled.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks!
That makes sense to me.
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Best to start at the rear with a thin pry bar. Gently tap it in starting in the center and alternating sides work out to the edges. Go slow.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
