What sub
JDOGG
Posts: 433
What subwoofer do you guys recommend for 1 10 or 1 12. I want big bass. Also the amp to go with it.
Panasonic VIERA 46" 1080p plasma
Onkyo TX-SR805
Klipsch RF-7(bi-amped)
Klipsch RF-25
Xbox 360 with HD DVD
Playstation 3
Cobalt Cable
Onkyo TX-SR805
Klipsch RF-7(bi-amped)
Klipsch RF-25
Xbox 360 with HD DVD
Playstation 3
Cobalt Cable
Post edited by JDOGG on
Comments
-
-
as much as needed,up to $1500.Panasonic VIERA 46" 1080p plasma
Onkyo TX-SR805
Klipsch RF-7(bi-amped)
Klipsch RF-25
Xbox 360 with HD DVD
Playstation 3
Cobalt Cable -
get the idmax.. v3 i got it and it hits pretty good so far.. its still breaking in..
i got it with the Pheonix Gold ti1200..
good luck..
ask power for more info if u want or just search my threads.. -
Where could i buy these on the internet?Panasonic VIERA 46" 1080p plasma
Onkyo TX-SR805
Klipsch RF-7(bi-amped)
Klipsch RF-25
Xbox 360 with HD DVD
Playstation 3
Cobalt Cable -
You could get everything at sounddomain with warranty..
however.. im cheap and **** so i only brought the amp and wires from sound.
Brought the sub cheaper at carmedia1.com (no warranty though) but so far its working... -
Adire Brahma 12... Direct from www.adireaudio.com for 369 I believe.
http://www.adireaudio.com/mobile_audio/drivers/brahma_series.htm
US Amps 2000X... not sure but I believe you could find one for about 900 if you dig. You could go with any amp around 2k, but this is about the best you can find SQ wise.
That sub is probably one of the best out there. Hell, if you wanted to also, you could get that sub and two of the MTX 81000D's from ebay for around 600 bucks. So you'd be under a grand and have a sub and damn near 3000 watts to push it. Yeah, I'd say that would be big bass.
However you don't actually need all that power to run the sub. I've talked to about 15 guys who are running that sub off of a JBL 1200.1, which puts out about 1350 watts at 1 or 2 ohms, and they say that's really all the power they need. It's not the cleanest amp, but you can pick up one of those from ebay for 250."The Big C" -
one thing to think about before you do all this, is your electrical system, anything over 1500-2000 watts(this includes subs and speakers combined)is going to hurt your electrical system and youll have to do more than caps to help it out
this includes getting another battery or getting a higher output alternator
something to think about before you get a 2000 watt sub
personally id take the id max
another thing to take into consideration is the wiring cost
thatll probably be another $100
cap $100
what kind of car do you have?
-Cody -
The reason I suggested the Brahma is because you can get the sub direct from the factory with a full warranty for 50 bucks more than you'd spend on the ID Max with no warranty. Don't get me wrong, I love ID, I own a pair of them myself, but the Brahma is arguably one of the best subs out there. The Brahma will run off the same amount of power as the ID easily and if he ever wanted to upgrade his amp and electrical system in the future he could.
Don't get me wrong, they are both great subs, I just see a lot more advantages to the Brahma for about the same cost."The Big C" -
im not trying to argue...and that is a damn good sub dont get me wrong...and im not saying the id is better...but ive heard image dynamics is pretty good about when their stuff breaks they take it back...much like polk...ive seen more than one posts on here where a guy doesnt have a receipt or something and polk tells them to send it back anyway
-Cody -
-
well -- i might as well chime in here...
regarding the 12" models...
excursion - the brahma beats the idmax by over 10%, but the brahma has a true half roll surround which means cone area is cut down on by the big honkin surround where the idmax's parabolic roll surround provides a more linear throw but a shade less xmax.
wiring - the brahma is only dual 2 ohm coil i believe, the max is dual 2 or 4 (you're choice)
sensitivity - idmax = 93 db's / brahma = 84 db
box sizes / options - if you're going for SQ, they're pretty much the same, go sealed, go big (about 1.5 more or less), go heavy duty. while you can port the max, it sounds best sealed. the brahma, however, will sound just about as good ported as sealed and be a good deal louder when ported properly. install is everything.
power handling - the brahma will do about 1600 rms / 4k max, the idmax lists at 1000 rms for the 12, i push mine well beyond that, and from convo's with IDguys 1400 watts from a good amp, even a dirty 81000d (while this amp is not reccomended, they stress something much better -- i do use it with great success) is perfectly fine if the user is experienced, knows where to "Draw the line" and isn't an utter moron. so you can say rms is about the same... however the idmax isn't really "SPL COMP HAPPY"... while people do use them for spl burps, the sub really can't take it. the v3 has had improvements in cooling and overall design so as to allow better performance under peak power... however if you're going to push it, the brahma is probably the way to go. with a peak rating of 4k, a smart user could probably push that rms well into the 2000 watt range -- as such i see that C-man has stated the USamps 2000 to be a good amp for the sub... so i'll assume my statement of "pushing it" to be correct. Knew a guy who ran an Autotek Stealth XS 1500.1 to a brahma, was quite happy with it till it "lost a hub cap" (my whimsical way of saying the sub had a 'stupid' problem -- voice coil lead jacked up the spider and snapped off. they took care of it for him in a respectable amount of time ... however last i heard he'd sold the sub and all his audio as a matter of fact -- not quite sure why though... probably needed the $$$).
I stated in another post that I see the brahma as a more idealistic version of an SQL sub... it is well balanced on the line between SPL and SQ, whereas an IDmax, while well balanced in its own right, its more SQ-ish... not much more... but enough that discriminating tastes (and i'll assume anyone who's buying a 400+ dollar sub is "discriminating") would obviously notice the difference and want the one that is right for them.
for me, it's the idmax... i want it loud, i want it sick **** hella loud, but it has to be precise, tight, good, and overall BLEND WELL. if it doesn't, i whine and **** and moan and nobody sleeps in my neighborhood until i've ripped eveyrthing out with power tools all night and installed something else. the brahma is a bit much for me... at least right now it is... two of them would be excessive in my truck. and running two USamps 2000's would probably obliterate my electrical system. However the two idmaxes and two 81000d's dont seem to kill it just yet, and again, i'm happy.
I would not go w/ a 15 -- i just wouldn't go w/ a 15 of anything due to taste --- but a 12" brahma off a USamps 2000 would be killer. I wouldn't do the JBL on a 400-500 dollar SQL sub. I've been tossing this around, and if u're broke **** poor, then fine, but if u can save the pennies, get SOMETHING better. the Autotek @ 1500watts ain't bad. I'd say 81000D but its only a dual 2 ohm coil sub, and two 81000D's is a bit much.... however, two 6500D's (or better yet OLD mtx 500D's -- hella clean for a class D and a damn good rock solid amp) would do nicely --- cuz then you'd have like 750 x 2 = 1500 x 1.... if u did the old 500d's you'd get a damping factor up around 300-ish, THD of less than 0.5% (0.2 / 0.3 was common) and birth sheet ratings of usually well over 700 watts at 12.5 volts -- which means like 800++ at 14.4 ... you can still find these as new old stock or refurbs from www.mitekfactoryoutlet.com -- the only reason i reccomend it is that there are very few DECENT high power class D amps now a days.... you can prolly grab two from the outlet for like 800 bucks total. IMHO well worth it. you'd get about 1600 +++ (i really wannt say 1700 but i dont want to stretch myself too thin... chances are the ones that are still left as NOS aren't the prime A stock) with much better electrical specs than just about any other class D in that power range that you're gonna find ... and get improved efficiency (by 20% or more) over a class AB amp -- less power draw from your electrical system, same wattage.
The RF bd1500.1 does around 1750 into a 2 ohm load, btu that's the problem --- 2 ohms, not 1 ohm.... you'd be in **** down at 1, and you can't run the brahma off one coil. otherwise, that'd be an amp you could prolly scrape off ebay for 700 bucks that'd do a lot of power and be efficient too with electrical specs that would indicate a clean audio performance.The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
another possiblity is the diamond audio TDX lots of loud and mad sq from my exp... feel free to compare the TDX to the IDmax PBD as i have no expereince with the IDMax as of yet ;DHemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.
-
eh - i have no exp w/ the diamond stuff either -- so we're even.
dude, u and i aren't made of money - we can't own everything:)
if the diamond retains the SQ of the 'max AND it'll handle 2000 wrms, then it is one friggin sick **** crazy sub that i'd be more than happy to let you donate to me.
i'll pay you back some day - when i get rich - ya -- when the money train rolls in...The Artist formerly known as PoweredByDodge -
I'm just waiting till my psychology career takes off then i'm hitting the sq and spl sceen like a typhoon :D they won't know what hit em... either that or i need to win one of those 350 million lotto jackpots... speaking of which what would you guys buy (audiowise) if money wern't a concern at all??? I'm curiousHemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.
-
yes yes im with him on this im very interested to what you guys have to answer to that... lolTesting
Testing
Testing -
Personally... i'd get a big old boat of a car and rip out the back seat and turn that area into an amp area... i'd add 2 or 3 alternators and several batts... that being said i'd take 4, yes 4 diamond audio TDX subs. i'd get the dual 4 ohm VC models and run 4 Trutechnology Sledghammers, one to each, pushing 2000x1@4ohm. I'd then take 4 pairs of Diamond audio hex comp sets and arange an elaborate sound stage, hiring an engineer to optimize the reflective properties of the car ;D. I'd run them off of two trutechnology C7 copper series amps getting 125x8@4ohm. I'd be loud as F$%$ and crystal clear :D i'd take the sq competition scene by storm :D. in retrospect i'd probably need 4-6 200a alternators and at least 1 bat per SH and probably one for both C7's. grand total??? Approx values...
4 200a alts $600 each = $2,400
4 SH-1's (probably low ballin here) $2500 each = $10,000
2 C7's (again probably low ballin) $750 each = $1,500
4 TDX subs approx $600 each = $2,400
4 HEX comp sets approx $600 each = $2,400
5 bats approx 90-100 each = $500
so that takes us to $19,200
add in a **** load of 1/0, 4, 8, and 12 ga wire (1/0 for SH's, 4 for c7's, 8 for speaker wire for subs and 12 for speaker wire for comps) a ton of dynamat to line the whole car. the cost of the car. custom brackets for the extra alts. and various install equip (fiberglass etc) that'll tack on at least another 3-4 grand so in the end you're looking at about a 25grand sound system that would be about untouchable :DHemi: (HEM -e) adj. Mopar in type, V8, hot tempered, native to the United States, carnivorous, eats primarily Mustangs, Camaros, and Corvettes. Also enjoys smoking a good import now and then to relax.