what resistor value is this? It's from my Polk 9A's.

Tony M
Tony M Posts: 11,151
edited February 2011 in Vintage Speakers
I finally got into my Polk 9a's this week and fixed the bases and found out why a signal was not making it to one of the tweeters.


This blown white resistor has strange numbers (to me) on it.

Do any of you guys know what value.....6-50VNP....stands for?

Maybe this was the part #..235-7522KA..it's under the above value.
Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • OldmanSRS
    OldmanSRS Posts: 419
    edited February 2011
    I think that's a 6uF 50 Volt non-polarized capacitor.

    Greg
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    That makes sense.:wink:

    Thanks.

    Radio shack should see me tomorrow.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Your right I think. It is in the shape of a small capacitor..

    Thank you.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,567
    edited February 2011
    I'd be surprised if Ratshack has that.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Jessie, Your right too. Only polarized and hit and miss on even having stock on hand for many values.

    I came home and went to parts express and they have a 5.6 or 6.8 and voltage at 100.....(I'm going frugal so don't want to spend alot)

    Any advice as to which ones I should switch out with? or add 2.7 to a 3.3 .If I do the twins, how do I solder them up?

    http://www.parts-express.com/non-polorized-electrolytic-capacitors.cfm


    I plan on doing both speakers so they will still sound similar.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2011
    When you add in shipping, the difference between NPE's and Dayton film caps will be minimal.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    What are NPE's.?....Non parts express vendors.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Could I ansert one of these 10's instead of the 6? and how would it affect the
    sound?

    http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-film-capacitors.cfm


    higher highs or lower highs?
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited February 2011
    NPE is Non-polar electrolytic such as in the NP which means Non Polar. Many electrolytic capacitors are polarized so they have a positive and negative connection lead like on a battery. As with a battery they have an electrolytic solution in them and thus can either leak or fail with age.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrolytic_capacitor

    Tony how do you know the capacitor is bad? In the beginning of the post you referred to it as a resistor and this leads me to wonder?:rolleyes: Did you test it with a voltmeter like a resistor? Open (high or infinite resistance) caps do happen but usually are detected by failure to charge with a voltmeter.

    Is this how you did it? http://www.ehow.com/how_5932897_test-capacitor-using-ohmmeter.html
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Thank you guys for your help in this matter for me!!

    I thought this cylinder being small and in the tweeter circuit that it was a resistor. I now know it is a capacitor. I didn't think a capacitor had to store juice for tweeters, but I guess so.:tongue:

    I tested the connectors at each end with my meter on ohms setting and there was no contact inside it to move my needle up.
    When I cut it out off the board, and slightly held another type with the sound on low, the tweeter came to life again.

    I want to learn these and other electronic circuits (with in reason of course)so bad now I can very soon, forsee me going to a local community college for it. Second career JUST might happen here!!! Tomorrow is the first day of the rest of my life:biggrin:
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • virtualdean
    virtualdean Posts: 286
    edited February 2011
    tony millard wrote: »
    Thank you guys for your help in this matter for me!!

    I thought this cylinder being small and in the tweeter circuit that it was a resistor. I now know it is a capacitor. I didn't think a capacitor had to store juice for tweeters, but I guess so.:tongue:

    I tested the connectors at each end with my meter on ohms setting and there was no contact inside it to move my needle up.
    When I cut it out off the board, and slightly held another type with the sound on low, the tweeter came to life again.

    I want to learn these and other electronic circuits (with in reason of course)so bad now I can very soon, forsee me going to a local community college for it. Second career JUST might happen here!!! Tomorrow is the first day of the rest of my life:biggrin:

    You have the right attitude! Go for it!:smile:
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  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited February 2011
    Tony good on you for pushing ahead on your own and asking questions. The 10uf capacitor will not work for the 6uf capacitor. You really want to be within 10% and closer is better.

    Since this is in the tweeter circuit I would spend the extra money to get a Sonicap and I believe you will hear a difference. They cost $14.00 each for a total of $28 + shipping.

    http://www.soniccraft.com/sonicaps.htm

    If you have or can borrow a soldier iron you will be good to go. If you want to PM me your address I will send you a piece of solder wick to clean up the board where you removed (clipped) out the bad capacitor and some Cardas Solder for your repair.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Outfitter03 wrote: »
    Tony good on you for pushing ahead on your own and asking questions. The 10uf capacitor will not work for the 6uf capacitor. You really want to be within 10% and closer is better.

    Since this is in the tweeter circuit I would spend the extra money to get a Sonicap and I believe you will hear a difference. They cost $14.00 each for a total of $28 + shipping.

    http://www.soniccraft.com/sonicaps.htm

    If you have or can borrow a soldier iron you will be good to go. If you want to PM me your address I will send you a piece of solder wick to clean up the board where you removed (clipped) out the bad capacitor and some Cardas Solder for your repair.

    Thanks again guys,

    I own a soldering gun and iron but will upgrade to one of those stations soon. I guess I'll order the Soniccrafts per your recomendation and do it right. I appreciate your kind jesture for those things but these should be allright with crafting solder for now. If I was going to do a major refurbishing of these then I would surely accept.

    I was busy today and will have to order tomorrow or Mon.. I still don't want to spend that much on these capacitors right now. Maybe another manufacturer that's second in line or so?

    Later, I'll include some pics on these rare babies.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    I went to Soniccraft and had a hard time with their webpage at first. Then I could never get to your recomended capacitor listing at all.I wanted to read about them some if I was to lay out alot more than I knew I could skimp by with since I have ALOT more pressing upgrades to do to other Polks allready.

    I ended up here and like the website alot.

    Can I have some advice as to this companies selection? I like the price of this capacitor but there are alot to choose from. Price range..5.00 or so if possible.

    Thanks.

    https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=152&products_id=756
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2011
    https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=356_5_351_353&products_id=8150
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Face wrote: »
    https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=356_5_351_353&products_id=8150

    I'll order two of these instead. Thank you very much.:wink:
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Ordered.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    Fixed. Thank you Face...This new one makes the tweeter sound a bit better.

    These little towers are awsome to me. Now if they were put against a wall or put into corners... I think they would be like my SDA 1Cs.......JK.

    They would be as nice as my RT55's easily though.

    Now to go switch out the other cap just to make these a balanced set.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    There was little difference in their sound because some one else had replaced the same capacitor with some other make. It was smaller but still sounded pretty good. I thought the sound was from an original cap. and was impressed until I saw the truth. I went and replaced the other cap. anyway.
    They sound great.
    Good By.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited February 2011
    Enjoy!
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • PolkMaster1
    PolkMaster1 Posts: 847
    edited February 2011
    Congrats on getting your speakers back up and running. Whenever you get a chance sometime down the road - I highly recommend you upgrade your caps to SonicCaps and Mills resistors. Although I do not have the 9As that you have, and I did not try any other caps or resistors when doing my XO upgrade, I do have Polks. :biggrin:

    Based on the recommendations of using the best bang-for-the-buck upgrade for caps and resistors, I took the soniccraft route - www.soniccraft.com. The sound afterwards was VERY rewarding - money well spent.

    If anyone wants to chime in on whether going the Sonic Craft way or if there is something better for these speakers, speak(er) up. :biggrin:

    If you plan on getting some accessories to go with your soldering iron, I recommend getting desoldering wick, flux paste, and tin which will help out on your soldering/desoldering skills. Do not go to rat shack - their wick quality has gone down in the past couple of years.

    By the way - I have the SDA-SRS 1.2TLs. :biggrin: I love em to death!!!

    Good luck Tony!!!
    Statistics show that 98% of us will die at some point in our lifetime.

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  • Tony M
    Tony M Posts: 11,151
    edited February 2011
    PolkMaster1 wrote: »
    Congrats on getting your speakers back up and running. Whenever you get a chance sometime down the road - I highly recommend you upgrade your caps to SonicCaps and Mills resistors. Although I do not have the 9As that you have, and I did not try any other caps or resistors when doing my XO upgrade, I do have Polks. :biggrin:

    Based on the recommendations of using the best bang-for-the-buck upgrade for caps and resistors, I took the soniccraft route - www.soniccraft.com. The sound afterwards was VERY rewarding - money well spent.

    If anyone wants to chime in on whether going the Sonic Craft way or if there is something better for these speakers, speak(er) up. :biggrin:

    If you plan on getting some accessories to go with your soldering iron, I recommend getting desoldering wick, flux paste, and tin which will help out on your soldering/desoldering skills. Do not go to rat shack - their wick quality has gone down in the past couple of years.

    By the way - I have the SDA-SRS 1.2TLs. :biggrin: I love em to death!!!

    Good luck Tony!!!

    I think Sonic Craft is the favorite on our forum here. I have SDA-SRS2's to do. SDA 1C's to do maybe. SDA-CRS+ to do. I also need to buy some RDO's for a few sets. .......that's alot of money I need to think about and it won't happen anytime soon. I need a set of tweeter rings from Larry if he makes anymore by the time I ring my SRS2's and CRS+'s. I bought a set of rings for my SDA-SRS's to go with my Karma win of the set for my SDA-CRS's but have since bought the +'s. So all is still good.

    I've also stated I want to learn so bad how to make and understand crossovers to further my enjoyment. A soldering kit and acces. are indeed in my future.
    Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them.
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