Some video calibration questions..

tommyboy
tommyboy Posts: 1,414
edited February 2011 in Electronics
I just recently bought a sammy 50" plasma and used a calibration disk. The thing is though, the disk is from 2001, when plasmas and lcds were a rarity in average households. So my first question is, are all calibration disks created equal?(does it make any difference what tv technology you have?)

If it doesn't, then I also have a question about the sharpness. While watching the tutorial, it made perfect sense what I was looking for during calibration, but once it started, I couldn't tell any difference except on the extremely high and low settings. So I guess my question would be, is it more ideal then to have it setting on average then? I have it set to 40 right now which I assume is ok...

Otherwise, everything looks great. I'm only using a HD upconvertion dvd player, but I'll get to a blue ray once I have enough money for a hdmi compatible reciever. No use getting one if I only get half the improvement..
AVR: H/K AVR240
Fronts: Monitor 50s
Center: CSI3
surrounds: R15s
Sub:Velodyne DPS10
Dvd/Cd: Samsung HD upconverter (for now)
TV: 50" Sammy Plasma
game hardware: 360 and gcn.
Gamertag: kovster27
Post edited by tommyboy on

Comments

  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,545
    edited February 2011
    What disc do you have?

    On sharpness, I found it easier to get up close to the set---really close, like 1ft. Pick a line to watch (I use the center cross-hair image) Start at 0, then bring it up until you just see the white ghosting (ringing) of the black reference lines. Now back it down one click at a time until the ghosting completely disappears. This will render the sharpest image without ringing.

    Contrary to popular belief, sharpness should NOT always be set to 0.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Source: Rotel CD14MkII CD Player - Speakers: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • thsmith
    thsmith Posts: 6,082
    edited February 2011
    tommyboy wrote: »
    I just recently bought a sammy 50" plasma and used a calibration disk. The thing is though, the disk is from 2001, when plasmas and lcds were a rarity in average households. So my first question is, are all calibration disks created equal?(does it make any difference what tv technology you have?)

    If it doesn't, then I also have a question about the sharpness. While watching the tutorial, it made perfect sense what I was looking for during calibration, but once it started, I couldn't tell any difference except on the extremely high and low settings. So I guess my question would be, is it more ideal then to have it setting on average then? I have it set to 40 right now which I assume is ok...

    Otherwise, everything looks great. I'm only using a HD upconvertion dvd player, but I'll get to a blue ray once I have enough money for a hdmi compatible reciever. No use getting one if I only get half the improvement..


    DIsk is fine but the gel lenses may have aged or faded.
    Speakers: SDA-1C (most all the goodies)
    Preamp: Joule Electra LA-150 MKII SE
    Amp: Wright WPA 50-50 EAT KT88s
    Analog: Marantz TT-15S1 MBS Glider SL| Wright WPP100C Amperex BB 6er5 and 7316 & WPM-100 SUT
    Digital: Mac mini 2.3GHz dual-core i5 8g RAM 1.5 TB HDD Music Server Amarra (memory play) - USB - W4S DAC 2
    Cables: Mits S3 IC and Spk cables| PS Audio PCs
  • Glowrdr
    Glowrdr Posts: 1,103
    edited February 2011
    What gel lenses? Not sure that has anything to do with it, but thought I'd ask just in case.
    65" Sony X900 (XBR-65X900E)
    Pioneer Elite SC-37
    Polk Monitor 70's (2)
    Polk Monitor 40's (4)
    Polk Monitor CS2
    Polk DSW Pro 660wi
    Oppo BDP-93
    Squeezebox Duet
    Belkin PureAV PF60
    Dish Network "The Hoppa"
  • tommyboy
    tommyboy Posts: 1,414
    edited February 2011
    steveinaz wrote: »
    What disc do you have?

    On sharpness, I found it easier to get up close to the set---really close, like 1ft. Pick a line to watch (I use the center cross-hair image) Start at 0, then bring it up until you just see the white ghosting (ringing) of the black reference lines. Now back it down one click at a time until the ghosting completely disappears. This will render the sharpest image without ringing.

    Contrary to popular belief, sharpness should NOT always be set to 0.

    I actually have two, both made by the same company. "Avia guide to home theater" (from 1999), and "Sound and vision home theater set up".

    I tried what you said... and I still can't tell the difference:redface:. They were explaining how the lines on top should darken and lighten but they seriously never do anything, same with the lines in the center. I turned off the edge enhancement feature thinking maybe that had the sharpness auto locked, but still nothing. I guess if I can't tell the difference here, I won't when I'm watching something...

    BTW, now everything seems a bit dark, but I don't want it too bright anyways just incase of the small chance of burn in(at least until the tv is broken in). The color does look MUCH better than before now that its calibrated.
    AVR: H/K AVR240
    Fronts: Monitor 50s
    Center: CSI3
    surrounds: R15s
    Sub:Velodyne DPS10
    Dvd/Cd: Samsung HD upconverter (for now)
    TV: 50" Sammy Plasma
    game hardware: 360 and gcn.
    Gamertag: kovster27
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,545
    edited February 2011
    If you see no change, leave sharpness at 0.

    If you've got brightness (black levels) and contrast (white levels) calibrated correctly, then you are probably just not used to a "correct" balance of the 2, as most sets are blazing with way too much contrast.

    It's pretty cool what you can do with just a cal disk. I use DVE so I'm not familiar with the two disks you mentioned.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Source: Rotel CD14MkII CD Player - Speakers: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,545
    edited February 2011
    Glowrdr wrote: »
    What gel lenses? Not sure that has anything to do with it, but thought I'd ask just in case.

    The lenses are used for setting color and tint.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Source: Rotel CD14MkII CD Player - Speakers: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • tommyboy
    tommyboy Posts: 1,414
    edited February 2011
    steveinaz wrote: »
    If you see no change, leave sharpness at 0.

    If you've got brightness (black levels) and contrast (white levels) calibrated correctly, then you are probably just not used to a "correct" balance of the 2, as most sets are blazing with way too much contrast.

    It's pretty cool what you can do with just a cal disk. I use DVE so I'm not familiar with the two disks you mentioned.

    You aren't kidding, I had the tv set on standard and the contrast was on 95:eek:, now its 48.

    There are so many other configurations the samsung has I know I could adjust it even more (gamma, RGB offset/gain,etc), but I have no idea what they are, so not going to bother...
    AVR: H/K AVR240
    Fronts: Monitor 50s
    Center: CSI3
    surrounds: R15s
    Sub:Velodyne DPS10
    Dvd/Cd: Samsung HD upconverter (for now)
    TV: 50" Sammy Plasma
    game hardware: 360 and gcn.
    Gamertag: kovster27