How important is tilted stands for monitor 10?

TennMan

I have been reading here in the forums that stands are needed for monitor 10s to sound their best. I intend to build some stands using plans I have seen for the original stands. The plans show the stands have a 6 degree tilt in the top plate where the speaker sits. Is there a noticeable difference in the sound without the tilt?

I like the way the speakers on the stands look much better without the tilt but I will sacrifice looks for sound if there is a difference that I would be able to here.

Is there a stand height that sounds better than the standard height of the original stand (about 5 inches looks like)?

Your comments are appreciated!

kefranklin

I have some stands built to almost original specs and i do know I get better imaging then rather than directly on my wood floor. I have not tried stands without any tilt, though. I have heard people say that they thought a 2-3 degree tilt sounded better and that makes since I guess because the speaker is so tall and it did seem to sort of aim over my head at 10+ feet away. The best improvement I made with mine, though, is putting them less than a foot from the wall. I have had other speakers that did not sound right that close, but the bass and mid response seems much better these 10bs when they are close to the wall. Also, i know it is obvious, but I have forgotten to snug all screws on the speakers and inspect(clean) my rca connections when I first got used equipment and wondered why it sounded bad. I am sure you will enjoy these no matter what stands you use, though. They sound pretty good just sitting on the floor.

mhardy6647

It's a cheap and cheerful way to time align the drivers. It works. I'd say both the lift and the tilt (sounds like a WonderBra!) add considerable value to the listening experience for the 10 or the 7.

They're pretty uninspiring just sitting on the floor... even milk crates are an improvement.

chandler9a

I just bought some of these and was wondering the same thing about the stands. I have them on the floor but am looking constantly for some stands and will build some myself if I have to.

Tenn, what are you powering yours with?

TennMan

I just got the speakers today. I have a Harman Kardon AVR65 (65 watts per channel) that I intend to use with them. When they arrived today I found that one of the tweeters was blown so I will be waiting for one of them before I get to try them.

halo71

I have built a few pairs. First set was tilted the 6 degrees per the plans. I didn't like the looks of them so I changed them to 2 degrees. They look better and I really can not tell a difference in sound from 2 to 6 degrees.

I was driving my 10's with an older model Onkyo AVR then briefly with a Harmon Kardon AVR5. Then switched back to separates I had laying around. A Onkyo P304 preamp and M504 power amp made ALL the difference in the world sound wise, they sound so much better now.

DON73

Some kind of stand is good.......tilted or flat. Getting them a few inches above the floor improves the bass response. Sitting on the floor especially a hard floor they can be a little bass heavy.

mhardy6647

jcandy

In general, any loudspeaker with more than one driver playing will have lobes in the sound pressure level (SPL) caused by interference. In a two-way system the (1) order/slope of the crossover transfer function together with (2) the woofer-tweeter driver spacing determine the lobe size and angle. With the monitor 7, for example, you will presumably get a downward primary lobe something like this:



The effect of tilting the speaker is just to change the lobe angle. On the other hand, raising the speaker has quite another effect, and that is to reduce the floor-bounce enhancement of the bass. In general, you will need to experiment with both the elevation and inclination of the speaker with reference to your seating position to determine the optimal setup.

TennMan

Wow! Thanks guys for all the great information. From what I'm reading it seems a stand with an adjustable top plate angle would be best for fine tuning the time align of the drivers. I'll give some thought to how I might design that into the stands before I start building them. The 6 degree tilt on the factory stand was probably based on a certain seating distance from the speakers. Anyone know what that distance was?

TennMan

You guys convinced me that stand were needed so I got off the couch and started building some. They are not high dollar real wood but are nice looking just the same. I made them from cheapo vinyl covered shelving boards from Lowes. About $35.00 in material for both.

I looked at the plans and photos for the factory stands but when my wife saw them she rejected the way they look. So I made them look to suit her while achieving the desired result... I think. I experimented with heights and tilt angles until I found what worked best in my room before I started building. I ended up with stands that put the front edge of the speaker 8" off the floor with a 3 degree tilt angle. I know 6 degree tilt is recommended but I liked the looks of 3 degrees better and I couldn't tell that 6 degrees sounded better in my room. I also made the base 12 inches wide instead of 15 inches. Did I make a mistake in deviating from the original design?

I keep reading about spikes on the bottom of the stands. Are spikes needed on hardwood floors? If so how do you prevent damage to the floor without defeating the purpose of the spikes?

I have completed one of the stands and I have most of the other one done. Below are a couple of photos of it. Let me know if you can't see the photos.

tonyr1

Nice job!! They look great

halo71

Those look very nice! I made mine at 3 degrees as well. I couldn't tell the difference sound wise from 6 to 3. Plus I agrees, they look better on the stands at 3 degrees. Actually I think mine are more around 2 degrees now. I made mine from 3/4" plywood and 1" aromatic cedar. Clear coating the cedar (base) and painting the upright and top plate black.

chandler9a

You just inspired me Tenn

TennMan

Thanks guys.

I agree with what others have said that the speakers sound better off the floor. I've got mine sitting on gallon paint cans right now. That height sounded the best in my room. Other rooms will probably need the speakers to be higher or lower.

I will finish the other stand tomorrow and will post some pics of how they look with the speakers on them.

DON73

TennMan wrote: »

Thanks guys.

I agree with what others have said that the speakers sound better off the floor. I've got mine sitting on gallon paint cans right now. That height sounded the best in my room. Other rooms will probably need the speakers to be higher or lower.


I've heard that Behr satin enamel cans sound best. You can tune the stands by putting different amounts of paint/water in the cans. Spikes don't work so well.......water leaks out.

TennMan

Your right Don. I tried the cheap paint from Wallyworld and it sounded terrible. Behr satin enamel is the only way to go.

mhardy6647

DON73 wrote: »

I agree with what others have said that the speakers sound better off the floor. I've got mine sitting on gallon paint cans right now. That height sounded the best in my room. Other rooms will probably need the speakers to be higher or lower.


I've heard that Behr satin enamel cans sound best. You can tune the stands by putting different amounts of paint/water in the cans. Spikes don't work so well.......water leaks out.

I dunno; the sound's a trifle veiled with satin enamel... but, of course, it is preferable to the unfortunate glare manifested when using semi-gloss.

scottyboy76

just got some sda 2bs, would a stand and or tilt be worth it

chandler9a

Definitely do not tilt sda's. They are too tall for stands but spikes would be a great upgrade.

TNHNDYMAN

Nice stands! That looks great. Any chance you might put together a cut list and size boards you got at the box store? I'm still needing to make something but think I'll need a front lip to guard against the little one sliding them. Plus I've got parts to put together a pair of 7's so I'll need to do something with those as well. Nice job.

DON73

Tenn those are some very nice looking stands! Was the vinyl the color of the stands. I've never seen that in any of the box stores I've been in. I'm working (more thinking) on some stands I'll make from some 5/4 cherry I have on hand.

TennMan

Thanks Don. The shelving boards I bought were just cheap vinyl covered particleboard in the cherry color you see in the photos. They are also available in a couple of other colors. They should be available in a Lowes store near you.

All I did was make a few cuts with a jig saw, drill a few holes and screw/glue them together. They hold me up without any problem so they should hold the speakers just fine.

I have more photos if anyone want to see them. Also will give more information about making them if anyone wants it.

TennMan

Will post a parts list soon.

TennMan

I used Saunders Cherry, flat edge, shelving boards form Lowes

Parts for stands:
1- 12"x72" shelf $10.97 (cut 12" piece off each end for bases- 4 foot section in the center wasted)
1- 10"x24" shelf $5.27 (cut 9" pieces off each end for tops-also cut 2 1-1/2 pieces for stops on the rear)
2- 8"x24" shelf $8.94 (cut 7" pieces off each end for uprights-angle to 6-1/2inches for 3 degree tilt - also use these shelves to cut 4"x6-3/4" brace between uprights)
6 pks- Plastic hinged screw covers $4.08 (covers exposed screw heads on the sides)
Box- #6x1-1/4" drywall screws $3.97
Total cost - $36.39 including tax

Tools needed:
Tape measure
Straight edge
Masking tape (to protect vinyl finish)
Jig saw
Square
Phillips screwdriver
Wood glue
Countersink for screws
Drill and bits

DON73

TennMan wrote: »

Thanks Don. The shelving boards I bought were just cheap vinyl covered particleboard in the cherry color you see in the photos. They are also available in a couple of other colors. They should be available in a Lowes store near you.

All I did was make a few cuts with a jig saw, drill a few holes and screw/glue them together. They hold me up without any problem so they should hold the speakers just fine.

I have more photos if anyone want to see them. Also will give more information about making them if anyone wants it.

A jigsaw, drill and screwdriver........amazing! I'd love to see more photos and how you attached the parts with screws. I have a Unisaw, drill press bandsaw and I doubt that I could do any better...........or even as well.

Conradicles

Great Job TennMan!!!

TennMan

Thanks for all your nice comments!

Although I don't have the fancy tools, being a machinist for over 25 years gave me the ability to do a pretty good job at measuring, cutting and drilling.

The photos below show where the screws were placed to hold everything together The screws hold the parts together but the wood glue really gives it lots of strength. The first photo shows the layout of screws on the top. The bottom of the base is drilled exactly the same. There are black plastic caps covering the screws on the side that holds the brace in place between the uprights. The brace in the center is what gives the stand lateral stability. Countersunk screws on the sides might look just as good but I liked the caps better. I should have the other stand finished today. I will take photos when I get the speakers sitting on them.

jcandy

TennMan wrote: »

I keep reading about spikes on the bottom of the stands. Are spikes needed on hardwood floors? If so how do you prevent damage to the floor without defeating the purpose of the spikes?

Spikes are appropriate for carpet, feet would be the equivalent approach for hardwood.

TennMan

Thanks jcandy for the info.

intangible

Wow, those stands are gorgeous.