Cable management question / advice

Glowrdr

Let's try this again (tried yesterday, hit post and the forum went down)

I will be receiving my SC-37 on Wednesday and that should be the last of my upgrades for a while. I'd like to take this opportunity to buy new cables and actually have some decent cable management. I do a lot of work with networking and teleco, so I'm familiar with rackmount systems. HT-wise, I'm pretty clueless.

Below you will see some pictures of my current setup (Audio tower, with TV stand). Sometime in the next few months, I plan on going with a Salamander quad type setup, and keeping everything together (stand/rack combo)

I think my plan so far is to get a couple 1m cables for connecting the Oppo and my Dish DVR to the receiver, and then getting a 3-4m cable to run from the receiver to the TV.

Is this the correct way to do this? I've heard of people using ceramic cable boosters - is there a valid reason that I would not want to run the cable down to the floor and over? Currently I've got such odd length cables, so I've got 15 foot cables connecting things that are 2 feet apart, and I've got 6 foot cables connecting things 5 feet away, so they kind of "float" across the wall.

Once i run the cables, is it a bad idea to velcro or tube the cables together for visual asthetics? Or am I inviting crosstalk by doing that?

Thanks in advance - It will be nice once I get everything settled and can be proud to showcase my collection. (P.s. - don't mind the kitty boxes. lol)

GSRBOB

Almost 50 views an no reply, dang. I'll give it a shot. You could do custom lengthened wires but it depends how often you rearrange your gear. I think the more simple approach would be to choose wires that are closest to the length you need and then just organize them as best as possible. I wouldn't use velcro or tube the wires in JMO. Just grab a pack of zip ties an go to work. It takes time but it's well worth it for visual aesthetics. Be careful when zipping fiber optic wire too if you have any.

As for the ceramic cable booster I think that's all hype. I think it's supposed to be intended for sound quality.

Nice rug BTW

EndersShadow

I would put the item with the most things connecting into it at the bottom (i.e. the reciever). This will allow you to feed the other cable's easier and not have as many higher up to view. Also suggest the velcro ties, or even twist ties over zip ties. I cant tell you the number of times I have switched out my gear with new to me gear and each time required me to re-wire which would mean cutting zip ties and re-doing them all.

Also their are custom rackmounts for gear like what you have. You order the rack and then tell them what gear you have and they make custom faceplates for you. Dont know if you will require WAF approval or not for that. It wont be cheap, but it will certainly help you make it look tidy. Also you might be able to recess it into the wall next to the TV. You could then wallmount your TV for a much much cleaner overall look (I want to do this when I buy a house). That would allow you to elminate the Salamander Entertaiment center all together...

Also the more gear you can do via HDMI the better. I have eliminated just about all my non HDMI gear by upgrading (Wii being the exception). Makes it a lot easier to run lines.

GSRBOB

EndersShadow wrote: »

Also suggest the velcro ties, or even twist ties over zip ties. I cant tell you the number of times I have switched out my gear with new to me gear and each time required me to re-wire which would mean cutting zip ties and re-doing them all.

Good point. It is kind of a pain to cut the zip ties and re zip everything. I try using as little zips as possible for that reason..

ben62670

Just don't run AC wires with signal wires. They should cross at 90 degrees when they do need to overlap.

GSRBOB

ben62670 wrote: »

Just don't run AC wires with signal wires. They should cross at 90 degrees when they do need to overlap.

I have no issues thankfully..

steveinaz

Figure out:

1. Best solution for which component goes on which shelf
(a) Keep in mind you don't want digital cables near analog; analog near AC
2. Buy a bag full of pull-tie tie downs and pull ties
3. Route AC down one side, signal cables down the other
4. Buy cables of the proper length where needed
5. Tie cables together loosely

Take a look at my showcase....the only cables you see are my speaker cables. Careful planning and routing will get you a nice clean setup, that will also go a long way to a much quieter background in the music. I can turn my system to the maximum, and you'll hear nothing without being 3" from the tweeter with your ear.

PrazVT

Thanks! I'm guilty of bad cable management too. I bought a bunch of cable mgmt stuff (ties, etc) that I have yet to open. I'll prob redo everything today, so good advice.

xandra

Despite - lack of better solutions - I justHad to pipe-in.
I enjoyed your pics SOOOOOO much. I think it's time that we start competing on most ludicrous looking wiring.
Wait till you see mine (tho mostly hidden behind a screen) try to picture a setup with about 12-14 devices connected (I've actually lost track.)
At one point (6 devices ago?) is was neat and organized but all it takes is adding/changing one item - and disaster ensues...

Glowrdr

Thanks for the advice all. I've actually got the little strips of velcro with the keyhole in them, for cable wrapping. Think I'll use those.

As for the HDMI - in 2 days, everything I believe will be HDMI. Not that it was my goal, but it just happens to be a bonus by having all new equipment within a couple months of each other. The only original pieces to my whole system will be my Dish box, and my Monster HTS.

Thinking of posting disasters - I actually pulled out a couple of cables that weren't even being used. That's how sloppy it's gotten over the years.

Last but not least... Enders - you recommended putting my receiver on the bottom. I guess I find this recommendation a little odd, but I'm willing to have an open mind. I would think that you would want the most used component on top, since that is what I will want to have access to without crawling around on the floor when I want to hit a button? I do see where the cabling makes sense to keep the bundle lower, I just am not convinced that once I am all said an done, having 3 HDMI cables going to the top would be that detrimental. Granted, I obviously don't have a whole lot to say with my wiring skills at the moment - but I think with some better management and a little time and effort, I could certainly make a receiver work on top.

Does anyone else have anything in regards to that suggestion? Is that kind of a rule of thumb that I've missed, or just another way of doing things?

Thanks for all the suggestions though, I kind of just left this thread for dead since I hadn't seen any responses. Guess I just had to wait

rdb2001

May I suggest wall mounting your tv and getting rid of the tower rack. All of your components should fit with your tv wall mounted. That would make for better routing and shorter cable runs. see mines below. I have a few more components than you but was able to keep everyhting neat.

EndersShadow

Glowrdr wrote: »

Last but not least... Enders - you recommended putting my receiver on the bottom. I guess I find this recommendation a little odd, but I'm willing to have an open mind. I would think that you would want the most used component on top, since that is what I will want to have access to without crawling around on the floor when I want to hit a button? I do see where the cabling makes sense to keep the bundle lower, I just am not convinced that once I am all said an done, having 3 HDMI cables going to the top would be that detrimental. Granted, I obviously don't have a whole lot to say with my wiring skills at the moment - but I think with some better management and a little time and effort, I could certainly make a receiver work on top.

Its not just the 3 HDMI cables....its the 3 HDMI cables plus all the speaker wires. Plus the receiver should have a remote which solves where it is located. So you dont have easy access to it, but all you should need to do is switch inputs and then volume, whereas your components (dvd player, game system, ect) you need to put discs into.

Marty913

Glowrdr wrote: »

Last but not least... Enders - you recommended putting my receiver on the bottom. I guess I find this recommendation a little odd, but I'm willing to have an open mind. I would think that you would want the most used component on top, since that is what I will want to have access to without crawling around on the floor when I want to hit a button? I do see where the cabling makes sense to keep the bundle lower, I just am not convinced that once I am all said an done, having 3 HDMI cables going to the top would be that detrimental. Granted, I obviously don't have a whole lot to say with my wiring skills at the moment - but I think with some better management and a little time and effort, I could certainly make a receiver work on top.

Does anyone else have anything in regards to that suggestion? Is that kind of a rule of thumb that I've missed, or just another way of doing things?

I'll jump in on the top/bottom issue but it is just my opinion and I do see the advantage of bottom for speaker cables. I keep mine on the top shelf for two reasons. One, heat rises so I prefer nothing above the main heat generator. Second, anytime I swap out a piece of equipment I have to touch the back of the receiver. In normal use the remote takes care of all the day-to-day stuff but adding new stuff or tracking down connection issues can be a real pain if the main connectivity point for everything is on the bottom.

All the cable management suggestions were good. I put a back on my Sanus rack and that helped a lot. Just a piece of thin plywood painted black. I have also used black burlap held on with thumb tacks. Just use a razor blade to cut out holes where the cables go out. When you "cover" the back of the rack you will appreciate the receiver / processor being on top.

Tour2ma

AVR top/ bottom/ middle... whatever works IC managment wise. How many times do you actually touch the AVR vs use the remote?

But whatever you do, please move the L-ch inside the rack close to the flat screen. That'd drive me nuts... not that I've very far to go.

EndersShadow

^reported

leftwinger57

I originally had a home made rack of finished plywood and angel iron ,looked good but because of my bundling I picked up a fairly sizeable hum.Point being I ditched the rack and now I just stack everything w/ the Adcom as the anchor obviously because it's heaviest and my Yamaha rx-v665 on top because it needs air to breathe or it will clip way to easily. Hum gone,very easy to maintain and looks great .One day soon I'll get a camera and I'll join show me your racks and stacks..

Drenis

leftwinger57 wrote: »

Point being I ditched the rack and now I just stack everything w/ the Adcom as the anchor obviously because it's heaviest and my Yamaha rx-v665 on top because it needs air to breathe or it will clip way to easily.

I had to read this 3 times this morning. Are you saying you stack your equipment with the amp on the bottom, components in the middle and a AVR on the very top? Because you think it will clip from heat!? Please correct me if I'm wrong. I hope I am. Because that is NOT an ideal setup in any way. You are allowing all the heat to rise (if it even does) through all your components making them even warmer.

leftwinger57

You absolutely read me right.The Adcom does not produce any amount of heat for what ever reason that I would call detremental to any other device.And yes my Yamaha did clip at certain volume levels when it was in an enclosed rack .Ever since the move it has never and mean never clipped and I tried just for hell of it.Cable box which is actually the hotest device in the room is not part of the stack.The change from rack to stack I'd like to say is about 3/4 of a year now w/ no problems what so ever. Look what I have the dock no heat ,blu/ray rareley used no heat,5 disc no heat I would like to think I know my own gear,now because my tv is only a 37'' I don't think it would be wall worthy but if I did get a 42 then I would hang the tv and that would free up this wide wood entertainment type center and would consider a rearrangement.

Syndil

You realize this is a year-old thread that was revived by pea20's spam post above?

BTW, reported.

decal

Some folks don't read, they just post. Hard as I try not to do it,I have been guilty of it.

transmaster

The cable "ties" I use are called Twist Lock Bundling Ties They are plastic loops with crossed ends the have balls on the end to facilitate squeezing them open, I finally found PMP Fasteners has them. But I find this outfit has far a solutions to this issue. http://www.pmpfasteners.com/media/micro_plastics_wire_rout.pdf