Polk RT3000p Amp Removal?
kchilaka
Posts: 55
Folks,
I want to pull the plate amp out of one of my RT3000p subs so I can clean the various switches ( I am trying to fix the auto-on issue). I unscrewed all the screws along the circumference of the plate amp but the amp seems still stuck solid to the cabinet. How in the world do I get the amp off? Is the amp stuck solid to the wood with glue or something? Any help would be appreciated. Here is the pic of the amp with all the peripheral screws removed..
I want to pull the plate amp out of one of my RT3000p subs so I can clean the various switches ( I am trying to fix the auto-on issue). I unscrewed all the screws along the circumference of the plate amp but the amp seems still stuck solid to the cabinet. How in the world do I get the amp off? Is the amp stuck solid to the wood with glue or something? Any help would be appreciated. Here is the pic of the amp with all the peripheral screws removed..
Post edited by kchilaka on
Comments
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Try to pry it off. Might be a little stuck because of the seal and its age. My amp plate on my Polk sub was hard to get off.
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Try to pry it off. Might be a little stuck because of the seal and its age. My amp plate on my Polk sub was hard to get off.
Hmm panel gaps are too tight for that. I did give the heatsink a proper tug as that's the only thing to hold on to. No go. -
What I did was unscrew one screw on the inner plate a couple turns and used that to pull on.
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What I did was unscrew one screw on the inner plate a couple turns and used that to pull on.
That got the plate off? The inner screws have got to be holding something important to the plate. Hence the apprehension. I will try it . How much effort did it require? -
That got the plate off? The inner screws have got to be holding something important to the plate. Hence the apprehension. I will try it . How much effort did it require?
Just take the sub out and push on the plate. -
It takes a lot of effort to get the plate amps off. No need to remove any more screws. You will have to pry harder than you have. It will come off. Had both plate amps off my RT3000's when I owned them. Just be ready to catch it when it comes loose from the seal. It's very heavy.
If you push from the front, you need someone back there to catch it otherwise you risk breaking something.____________________________________________________________
polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050 -
It takes a lot of effort to get the plate amps off. No need to remove any more screws. You will have to pry harder than you have. It will come off. Had both plate amps off my RT3000's when I owned them. Just be ready to catch it when it comes loose from the seal. It's very heavy.
If you push from the front, you need someone back there to catch it otherwise you risk breaking something.
Now that I know I am doing the right thing, I will get them off.. When I get back into fix-it mode.. Right now I am just enjoying their sound and their ridiculous low-end performance:) -
Now that I know I am doing the right thing, I will get them off.. When I get back into fix-it mode.. Right now I am just enjoying their sound and their ridiculous low-end performance
You said that right!!!
Best ever made I think!
Great for HT.Most people just listen to music and watch movies. I EXPERIENCE them. -
Hey kchilaka,
Post some pics of the guts when you crack it open.
TIA________________
2 Channel-Denon AVR-4520/SDA 2.3TL's
5.1-Denon AVR-4500h/RT3000P's/CS1000P/RT2000P's/ -
just did this very thing last month and replaced mine with an amp from Tony
(thanks again!) and can say that you do need to take a driver out and then push it out through the cab. And definitely have your other hand around back because once its free all 20 pounds of it comes quickly. Also, be mindful of where the connectors/harnesses are. Some of some of the butt connectors are farther down the wire than i dha expected and almost cut the wires before i discovered them. Additionally, it's eaiest to disconnect the wires from the drivers FIRST before the amp because those are pretty short and there isn't much slack to pull the amp out if left connected to the drivers. design is where science and art break even. -
tony millard wrote: »You said that right!!!
Best ever made I think!
Almost... they pack a great punch. ____________________________________________________________
polkaudio Fully Modded SDA SRS 1.2TLs + Dreadnaught, LSiM706c, 4 X Polk Surrounds + 4 X ATMOS, SVS PB13 Ultra X 2, Pass Labs X1, Marantz 7704, Bob Carver Crimson Beauty 350 Tube Mono Blocks, Carver Sunfire Signature Cinema Grande 400x5, ADCOM GFA 7807, Panasonic UB420, Moon 380D DAC, EPSON Pro Cinema 6050 -
just did this very thing last month and replaced mine with an amp from Tony (thanks again!) and can say that you do need to take a driver out and then push it out through the cab. And definitely have your other hand around back because once its free all 20 pounds of it comes quickly. Also, be mindful of where the connectors/harnesses are. Some of some of the butt connectors are farther down the wire than i dha expected and almost cut the wires before i discovered them. Additionally, it's eaiest to disconnect the wires from the drivers FIRST before the amp because those are pretty short and there isn't much slack to pull the amp out if left connected to the drivers.
Argh. I was hoping to work on it today but I realized I didn't have a hex Key that fit the driver nuts. Sigh. Are these not metric? -
hmmmm yeah i believe they are metric but cant remember. Ill check tonight.design is where science and art break even.
