Monitor 70 crossovers

jerwardemy
jerwardemy Posts: 4
edited February 2011 in Speakers
Can anyone tell me the what value caps are in the crossover on the monitor 70? I'm planning on upgrading the caps to Sonicaps or Maybe Mundorfs. From what I can see, there is an 8uf lyric...another lyric that I can read the value of, and 1 foil cap that I also don't see the value on. I listen to my 70's mostly for music through a Marantz 2270, Thorens TD-145 MKII w/Grado Gold...I would prefer warm sounding capacitors but also better detailed than the factory caps...sooo any advice would be appreciated
Post edited by jerwardemy on
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,779
    edited January 2011
    I think you will find precious little room for aftermarket caps in those speakers.

    Polk always has the values on the parts, you may have to look on the underside.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2011
    Sonic Caps or Clarity Caps would be good choices. IMO, Mundorf is over rated.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited January 2011
    I agree, keep it simple and modestly priced.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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  • jerwardemy
    jerwardemy Posts: 4
    edited January 2011
    Well it appears that the other lyric is 10uf...but the foil,, I'm still not sure about...it says 224j on it...is that a .22 uf? When I googled it, that's what came up.
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2011
    The .22uf is a bypass, it's not needed if you're replacing the electrolytics with film.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • Outfitter03
    Outfitter03 Posts: 563
    edited January 2011
    F1nut wrote: »
    I think you will find precious little room for aftermarket caps in those speakers.

    Exactly what F!nut said. If you are looking at the crossovers you see what he is talking about. The vintage polk crossovers or even the LSIs have a good deal of room on the PCB. The Monitor crossovers are compactly built.

    So to upgrade you will need to either desolder components and place the new components on some sort of mounting board and jumper them into the PCB with chassis wire, or do like I have decided to do and just go with the extra cost and build new crossovers. The problem with the second choice is $$$ and you will never be able to recoup those costs. Many on this forum would suggest buying a higher quality speaker, but for music in the current Polk lineup the LSI is the next step up and a pretty big dollar step at that. After much consideration I look at this as a learning experience and if I make mistakes, I would rather do it with $400 speakers and $200 worth of upgrade components than start out on $1,000+ speakers to practice on.

    I am using this 8.2uF cap for the tweeter ckt.

    http://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=170&products_id=8622

    And a 10uF for the Mids from Sonicraft.

    http://www.soniccraft.com/sonicaps.htm


    The tweeter resistor is rated at 1.0 ohm and the Mid resistor is 5.7 ohm. Both are rated at 5W in the factory crossover, but most upgrade to 10W if using the Mills from Soniccraft.

    When you get 10 posts on this site so that you have an active PM account, send me a PM and I will send you some more information I have on this crossover circuit. Welcome to Club Polk.
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  • jerwardemy
    jerwardemy Posts: 4
    edited January 2011
    Outfitter, that's the info I was looking for...I think I'm just going to put the caps on the back of the PCB and run wires to the solder pads...I'm not going to mess with the resistors because I upgraded them in a pair of Advents and it made them brighter. I went ahead and ordered the caps...Claritycap ESA all around...now, when I remove the .22uf bypass, do I need to solder a wire in its place?
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,779
    edited January 2011
    I'm not going to mess with the resistors because I upgraded them in a pair of Advents and it made them brighter.

    What brand did you use? Were the resistors the only thing you changed? Were the values the same?
    when I remove the .22uf bypass, do I need to solder a wire in its place?

    No.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • pitdogg2
    pitdogg2 Posts: 25,708
    edited January 2011
    Resistors are cheap and you should do both. you're going from 10% sandcast to 1% wirewound with Mills and they are worth the 4-5 dollars.
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  • jerwardemy
    jerwardemy Posts: 4
    edited January 2011
    Well, with the Advents, I first changed the caps to Gen 1 Sonicaps...this helped a lot, then I changed the resistors to Mills in the same values and it just seemed to make them bright IMO...who knows, I may try it with my Polks
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  • mrviper100
    mrviper100 Posts: 8
    edited January 2011
    Here are some pictures of the Monitor 70 crossovers. (Not mine.)
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/linux-works/5334556762/in/photostream/
    Thanks,
    Pat in Chicago Land

    Mains - Polk Audio Monitor 70's
    Center - Polk Audio CS2
    Side/Rear Surrounds - Polk Audio RM101's
    Sub - Polk Audio PSW111
    Back ups - Polk Audio Vintage Monitor 7c's
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  • leftwinger57
    leftwinger57 Posts: 2,917
    edited February 2011
    Hi GUYS,
    If one owns a vintage pair of a nice and famous pair of speakers, when does
    said dude make the investment to re-cap, change posts and what ever they do for spkr guts. In the Klipsch universe the dude is Bob Crite and one and all has taken x-overs or shipped to him for inards updates.For McIntosh it's Dewick.
    So, if a polkie needs or thinks he-she needs these upgrades what do these people do.For me I own an Adcom gfa555 and unless it did not turn on I wouldn't have the slightest idea what to do.Now if I was to go to tubes and this new pastime of rolling how does one get with that crowd.To me I was always taught after clean power get the BEST SPEAKERS YOU COULD EVER afford..

    NOW THE DREAM
    McINTOSH 2105 AMP
    McINTOSH C-28 PRE>mcintoshTuner> OHM/WALSH 4XO
    Denon cdp>>>>>>WHAT'S MINE>>>>>Adcom gfa555-Infinity sm112s---Onkyo p301 pre---Denon 1940ci
    Dual1229 turntable.
    I used to have laffeyette stuff before Radio Shack.....
    2chl- Adcom GFA- 555-Onkyo P-3150v pre/amp- JVC-QL-A200 tt- Denon 1940 ci cdp- Adcom GFS-6 -Modded '87 SDA 2Bs - Dynamat Ext.- BH-5- X-Overs VR-3, RDO-194 tweeters, Larry's Rings, Speakon/Neutrik I/C- Cherry stain tops Advent Maestros,Ohm model E

    H/T- Toshiba au40" flat- Yamaha RX- V665 avr- YSD-11 Dock- I-Pod- Klipsch #400HD Speaker set-

    Bdrm- Nikko 6065 receiver- JBL -G-200s--Pioneer 305 headphones--Sony CE375-5 disc
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